Project Rubberbelly Rebirth - 1966 Larson Lapline

[rubberbelly]

Brought her home from dry storage again. Last summer I restored the trailer. Now I am back to the glass!

After reading some of the USCG information, they speak about spacing the buoyancy properly bow to stern and port to starboard based on calculated weight and distribution of the weight. Other than cost, are there any negative issues with filling the entire cavity with foam (more flotation and better floor support is my goal)? Should be less than 20 cubic feet of foam in . Hope to get some supplies in route next week! Thanks, Jason

 

[jigngrub]

Hey Jason, post some pics of where you are now with the boat. Have you installed the new transom and stringers, did you go with stringers or the ribs instead? Have you installed the decking yet?

For the floatation foam, you can fill the below deck area completely but this won't allow for any ballst water along the keel to help keep you boat upright in case of swamping and your boat could capsize instead of floating upright and level.

You can leave the keel section between the 2 center stringers void of foam and fill the rest of the below deck solid with foam. You can also fill the sidewalls under your gunwales with foam to compensate for the foam you left out of the keel. This will give you a weighted keel kind of like a sail boat to keep your boat upright and the foam in the sidewalls will add extra buoyancy should you boat fill with water. Does any of this make sense to you?

 

[rubberbelly]

Hey Jason, post some pics of where you are now with the boat. Have you installed the new transom and stringers, did you go with stringers or the ribs instead? Have you installed the decking yet?

For the floatation foam, you can fill the below deck area completely but this won't allow for any ballst water along the keel to help keep you boat upright in case of swamping and your boat could capsize instead of floating upright and level.

You can leave the keel section between the 2 center stringers void of foam and fill the rest of the below deck solid with foam. You can also fill the sidewalls under your gunwales with foam to compensate for the foam you left out of the keel. This will give you a weighted keel kind of like a sail boat to keep your boat upright and the foam in the sidewalls will add extra buoyancy should you boat fill with water. Does any of this make sense to you?

.
As far as the current state, it was gutted, top seperated from the hull and put in storage no real picture worthy progress so to say. Transom core is cut to size and laminated together. My plan is to put in traditional style stringers. Grinding out the left overs of the factory stringers is next, hopefully starting this weekend and next week I will be ordering the glassing materials (I have a long list and the foam was the last big item to figure out).

Regarding the explanation, that was beautiful and makes sense to me! Very helpful thanks a lot. The center cavity I see is very important and something I wasn't considering obviously. Including the Lund link you posted in another thread for my reference here too. Was very surprised to see the hole in the bottom when it was back on the trailer

Usually more floatation is good/best, but distribution is important for upright and level floatation... like this Lund floats:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M30nDtZ4iys

 

[jigngrub]

Well I'm glad you understood that, some people just can't quite grasp the concept.

If I was going to do that I'd replace all the stringers and then pour the below deck foam like this:

I wouldn't pour through the decking after it had been set, instead I'd use a temporary deck wrapped in plastic to hold the top of the foam flat and remove it once the foam is poured so I could make sure there weren't any voids in the foam that could trap water.

After the below deck foam is poured out and the temp decking is removed I'd pout the sidewall foam:

Again, using temporary plywood wrapped in plastic and screwed to the vertical ribs. Drill holes in the horizontal top plate to pour the foam. Remove temp plywood.

I'd glass in and paint the keel drain/ballast with a few good coats of bilge paint for added waterproofing and protection.

After all the foam is poured and any voids are filled you can put down your nice new decking and then build up your sidewalls without having to drill a bunch of holes in it.

After the decking is installed I'd add a deck to bilge drain, it's just a hole in the deck near the stern of the boat that lets any water that gets on the deck drain into the bilge and it has a grated cover like one of these:
http://www.iboats.com/Deck-Drain-Se...482891--session_id.838040091--view_id.1184253

I have one on my boat:

It'll drain a large amount of water off the deck and into the bilge quickly so it can be used for ballast and/or pumped out by the bilge pump.

 

[rubberbelly]

Finally!!!! Should have the following materials show up next week, wooohoooo! So now my slow progress cannot be the excuse of no materials

The list is a combination of recommendations by WOG, other threads, and my over thinking/guesstimating. I am sure there is something that I missed but was trying to get a good bang for the buck on shipping for the resin....


100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 4" wide
100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 6" wide
31 yards, 1.5 oz. CSM, 50" wide
17 yards, 1708 Biax, 50" wide
10 yards, Surfacing Veil, 38" wide
Aerosil-Cabosil 10qt
3M Glass Bubbles 5qt
1/4" Chopped Strand 4lbs
Surfacing Wax
435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin, 20 Gallons
2 dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets
Plastic Mixing Stick
50 Stir sticks
Tongue Depressors
one 3/8" x 3" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
two 1/2" x 4" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
one 3/4" x 5" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
one 3/8" Fiberglass Corner Rollers
24, 3" Chip Brushes
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 4" Wide
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 5" Wide
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 6" Wide
4 LB Density Urethane Foam, 80LB kit, 20 cubic foot

 

[Woodonglass]

Finally!!!! Should have the following materials show up next week, wooohoooo! So now my slow progress cannot be the excuse of no materials

The list is a combination of recommendations by WOG, other threads, and my over thinking/guesstimating. I am sure there is something that I missed but was trying to get a good bang for the buck on shipping for the resin....


100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 4" wide You can make your own tabbing strips but if you want to buy this you can
100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 6" wide You can make your own tabbing strips but if you want to buy this you can
31 yards, 1.5 oz. CSM, 50" wide
17 yards, 1708 Biax, 50" wide
10 yards, Surfacing Veil, 38" wide Whats this for???
Aerosil-Cabosil 10qt You'll need 4 gallons
3M Glass Bubbles 5qt
1/4" Chopped Strand 4lbs You need 1 lb
Surfacing Wax
435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin, 20 Gallons
2 dozen 1 qt plastic mixing buckets
Plastic Mixing Stick
50 Stir sticks
Tongue Depressors
one 3/8" x 3" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
two 1/2" x 4" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller You only need this one
one 3/4" x 5" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller
one 3/8" Fiberglass Corner Rollers Don't need this
24, 3" Chip Brushes Get these at Harbor Freight REAL CHEAP
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 4" Wide
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 5" Wide
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 6" Wide You only need these Get these at Harbor Freight REAL CHEAP Cut em down if you need smaller
4 LB Density Urethane Foam, 80LB kit, 20 cubic foot

See comments in Red.

 

[rubberbelly]

100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 4" wide You can make your own tabbing strips but if you want to buy this you can Just me being lazy.
100 yard roll, 1.5 oz. CSM, 6" wide You can make your own tabbing strips but if you want to buy this you can Just me being lazy.

10 yards, Surfacing Veil, 38" wide Whats this for???
Repairs on the transom outer skin, here is a link to my questions on that: LINK


Aerosil-Cabosil 10qt You'll need 4 gallons
Will get more of the Aerosil-Cabosil per your recommendation.

1/4" Chopped Strand 4lbs You need 1 lb
two 1/2" x 4" Fiberglass "Bubble" roller You only need this one
one 3/8" Fiberglass Corner Rollers Don't need this
24, 3" Chip Brushes Get these at Harbor Freight REAL CHEAP
5 Plastic Squeeges/Spreaders, 6" Wide You only need these Get these at Harbor Freight REAL CHEAP Cut em down if you need smaller
Regarding the tools, I am getting a few extras to experiment with other projects I may try if I like glassing enough and the price was minimal compared to the resin and cloth LOL

Thanks for looking over the list! My comments in blue. For some of the tools cost wise it was cheaper to just add in for a one stop shop to get started and I don't have a trip planned to Harbor Freight anytime soon unfortunately

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, Check out Nursemans thread. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...78-83-lund-sirius-total-gut-and-rebuild/page3
His transom is almost exactly like yours and he just finished his up. I'd recommend doing yours exactly the same way and you don't need the veil.

 

[rubberbelly]

Thanks again Woodonglass. Quick update. 500lbs pallet full of supplies arrived, wish I would have waited till the sanding and grinding dust had settled though. Spent a couple of afternoons grinding out the old, still have quite a bit to do. Hopefully my enthusiasm gets a boost once I am done with the dust storm. On Sunday I was fighting vacuum performance and clogged filter. Tonight I picked up bags and a filter for the shop vac, also I remembered I have a "dust deputy" by Oneida (www.oneida-air.com) so I hooked that up as well so hopefully cleanup and vacuuming will go better on my next work day! Thinking about adding panty hose or something similar at the vacuum port of the dust deputy as an additional layer of filtering. Thank you to all the regulars providing guidance and input. Also thank you to all who are sharing your builds for others to learn from.