Time to redo the back deck vinyl/upholstery - what brand/kind to go with?
I redid all of the vinyl approximately 12 years ago and did the backing with poly soaked plywood. Its starting to come apart and shred finally so time for a redo. The vinyl and backer is exposed to the elements 24x7 in a...
Getting closer to install. Cut a new piece of 1/2" plywood and shaped it fit.
Coated both sides with West Systems epoxy and laid glass on the back side. Then waited for it to harden and carved off the extra glass. Cleaned off the blush and roughed up the surface. Then put a layer of glass...
I have 2 bilge pumps in the rear and a separate pump in the front. I'm trying to avoid having rear bilge water getting to the front of the boat. I dont have scuppers and do a ton of salmon fishing. So the back bilge water can get a little gross and I dont want it into the cabin bilge area. I...
Need some advice regarding a fiberglass job in my fwd bilge area.
Around 12 years ago I ripped up the cabin floor and replaced the main stringer in the cabin. That cabin stringer terminated at a bulkhead at the stepdown into the cabin and I think there are dual stringers midship under the gas...
Im just a little concerned about cutting new threads in to aluminum - then putting another SS plug or bolt into it. Just really hesitant overall due to the cost of something goes wrong with a Volvo Penta drive.
I did some internet searching and still dont know the difference between a helicoil and a timesert. Being that the housing is aluminum, im not sure just tapping it to a M10 plug is the way to go since Volvo upgraded the drive later to have a metal insert. Granted I dont know a lot about some...
Trying to help a buddy who has a stripped oil fill/overflow hole on his Volvo Penta outdrive. With the high cost of a Volvo Penta outdrive failure, we would prefer to do this the most proper way possible. Is the correct way to remove the housing and take it in to get a proper helicoil or...
I've done about 5 sets of trim tabs.
My steps are.
Predrill
Put all of the screws half way without the tabs to make sure its not going to chip anything out.
Remove screws and squirt 4200 into the holes. Leave a blob on the outside (this will basically turn into a gasket when you tighten...
Well beside chasing down leaks, its freaking awesome. I went with a
Dometic SeaStar 2.4 Helm, HH5272-3, Front Mount
Its the shortest lock to lock (which should take the most effort) and I can spin the wheel with a single finger.
It was winterized by a boat yard so I assume drain and fill.
I agree, if the block is cracked its not worth it. Anything else, I would go with a repair.
I milkshaked a Mecruiser that filled then entire engine due to a cracked head. Replaced the head and cleaned everything. Entire inside was spotless without rust.
I am just trying to figure out what the appropriate steps are and potential causes.
Have a compression test done and/or pressure...
Have a buddy with a 7.4 L Volvo Penta (GEN6 GM Marine block. 7.4 liter, 454ci)
that made a major oil/water milkshake on the way back to the slip last week. The breather hoses that route back into the flame arrester puked the milkshake over the top of the block. The water was never just...
5.7 Mercruiser with an Alpha 1 drive. Hooked into a 9.9 Yamaha high thrust (with power tilt and electric start) that is on a fixed motor bracket.
I've always had issues with being able to steer with just the kicker and have made adjustments over the years. I even went as far as disconnecting...
