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Fiberglass StarCraft = itchy mess. Aluminum StarCraft= relatively easy. Remove trim and end caps, un bolt/ un screw everything. Remove drains and plug bung. Pull old out, trace, cut, replicate new. Seal, install and reverse process.
I wonder if Partsouq is still the hidden gem it used to be. Haven’t used the site in years but used to get out of market Japanese brand parts dirt cheap, and what I remember was in market parts were really cheap
Too
StarCraft built hulls for other companies as well as their own. Sylvan has ties directly back to StarCraft, but Bluefin, Spectrum and Smokercraft all had boats that StarCraft actually built ( not outfitted ). The Sylvan Offshore and Smokercraft Titan are basically identical boats, sort of...
470 in that will scoot. BUT most 470’s are junk.. a good solid inboard 3.0L will drop right in and cost much less than an outboard conversion. 140hp is all that boat needs and what many of them got. However don’t spend too much.
If that boat ends up not being the one, you can add Sylvan...
I did just that. Took off an old Johnson 40hp and rigged a brand new Suzuki 25hp. The actual difference is about 10hp less but it didn’t actually loose speed because the engine runs a higher RPM. It lost much of its snappiness but I’m not towing a skier either. I don’t regret it. Quieter...
Top left corner of the center screen is the headlight controls if no switch. The cheap eliminators work by creating an external ghost draw that causes the system to go into a fail safe mode. The eliminators that plug inline with the switch employ a simple logic memory and mimics the switch
I run 90-93 Ethanol free in my ‘51 Plymouth for 2 reasons, the fuel pump and the carburetor. The engine itself would run on 70 octane and be happy but it’s a pretty original car and I’m not sure if the fuel pump or carburetor have been rebuilt ethanol compliant so it’s cheap insurance to pay $1...
I wouldn’t mind having a tach as well to really figure out what my max cruising speed should be, and 6v tachs are spendy as well as being too large. I just want something mostly hidden under the dash lip. I probably need like $10 worth of stuff. I might see what I can do if I get around to it...
I do the same. I just checked it Saturday and it was spot on still from last year. It is a 75 year old car with a 75 year old engine though, and it would show if anything happened inside the distributor
I got a spare arduino I haven’t used that I got for $1, and an idea to create a digital tune up gauge for my ‘51 Plymouth ( stock 6v + ground points ignition ). I have an idea to have arduino calculate the point dwell and report it on a screen. Thinking it could calculate the RPM and display a...
I restored my grandfathers old Horse 5 ish years ago. Original Tec engine wasn’t in good shape last time it had run ( smoked ) and the carb was messed up so so I put on a Briggs Honda clone engine. It came with the brush guard/ bumper which didn’t fit the OHV clone engine so I actually went as...
There are 2 or 3 different risers used. One style that is probably like you have where it goes straight back and has a small outlet. A second style that has a larger opening but goes off to the side and I think a third that uses a different bolt pattern on the riser base. As long as you get...
