SS props are thinner and sharper. They cut though the water better. I have a 20hp that I ran for 10y with aluminum and I went to SS. It gets on plane faster and pushes more weight.
I have a 115hp with a high five. And it goes 40mph 2people and 10gal gas or 3people 30hal gas and two full live...
Your heads have an exhaust cross over. Your intake doesn’t have exhaust cross over. Hopefully you can find a gasket to block it off. I think some people close the ports on the head by welding in a piece.
I think? It’s good to try all the different foods that you feel like trying.
I just got a two and a half tall boy bonus for putting my friends on fish.
Could be air cross over through intake.
Is that the same head and intake that ran before the rebuild? Original gasket may have had a cross over block off.
I always run the ground directly to each light. I just did a trailer. All wires are covered to prevent mice attacks. I use led and don’t unplug when launching.
Use a meter to check vehicle side.
Maybe a simple way ( I know it works on some boats). Run the speed you want and adjust the trim to stop the porpoise. If you don’t change the rpm much then you have the sweat spot.
I like what you have done so far. I would like a panel (either wood or aluminum ) on the outside of the stern to sandwich everything together. As big as you can without going much below the water line. Find some thin wood to shim it out. If wood paint with Rustolium.
Test how strong it is...
So I had the tank empty by using the fuel line to the engine. So usable fuel. Then I put the new sender in. Then I put 20L in and the gauge didn’t move off empty. Then I put 20L more in and the gauge went to just under a 1/2 tank. Then I put 10L more in and the gauge stayed the same.
So...
I got 56L out of the gas tank. It was reading 1/4 tank but bouncing a lot. When I move the old sender while connected to an ohm meter it seems ok. I’m just waiting for the new sender to get here.
