I would cover the hole with 1 piece and the rest with the other. I am restoring a 87 235 XLC right now myself. I would really consider checking those stringers for rot too if the transom was shot.
I have the new coring in the aft area of the hull completed and now working on area under the fuel tank near the keel. I know everyone suggested using foam, but I decided to go with 1/2" marine ply anyway just like it was done from factory because I had it on hand, and this boat isn't going to...
I have another dilemma I need some help with.
my stringers measure 3/4 actual wood thickness x 12" tall and 10.3' in length and 3/4 thick 8" high and 10.3 feet long. There are 2 of each of them obviously. I am trying to figure out what lumber to use for them. Plywood is only 8' length so I was...
Not sure why its causing 2 posts. Anyway here are some pics of the clamping I made and used when attaching the transom wood which was 2 3/4" thick pieces of Marine plywood glued together with Titebond 3 waterproof wood glue. I also put a piece of CSM on both outside pieces of transom to...
I figured I should post some pics from when I did the transom at the beginning of this complete restore which went great I think. Here is when I started removing the inner skin and wood.
In the next pic you will see where I put a piece of contact paper over the whole outside of the transom so...
I figured I should post some pics from when I did the transom at the beginning of this complete restore which went great I think. Here is when I started removing the inner skin and wood.
In the next pic you will see where I put a piece of contact paper over the whole outside of the transom so...
I still have not attached the coring to the hull because while grinding away at the white dry areas I ended up going through the hull. After grinding out the area the hole is about 1" x 4" and crappy part is it is right on top of the trailer bunk so having access to the other side to repair on...
I still have not attached the coring to the hull because while grinding away at the white dry areas I ended up going through the hull. After grinding out the area the hole is about 1" x 4" and crappy part is it is right on top of the trailer bunk so having access to the other side to repair on...
Here is zoom in of area I am wondering if I should cut off lip to be able to core easier and then just do some heavy glass work over it all and hopefully still be able to have that drainage area down the keel.
Yes the core was wet but not completely rotting which is why it is difficult to remove under that lip of glass I left next to the keel drainage area. Its dried out now that it has been cut open but at this point some areas have been dug out and others not yet. Here are a few pics from further...
This is my first post, but I feel I know so many of you already after reading this forum for years studying and preparing for this restore. I will be posting pics of entire restore going forward once I figure out the best way to do so since the old methods don't seem to work well now days...
