motor is sputtering and dying out

[Dmknox98]

I've got a 1962 Evinrude sportswin. Model is 10024A.

Here's the symptoms - The motor will crank and spark with the choke pulled out, and sometimes it will even start up for a second or 2. Once it does this, it won't start again until the choke has been fully pushed in. Then it will start up and run fine for about 5-10 seconds, then it will pick up RPMs, and despite lowering the throttle, the motor won't stop revving. Then it will sputter, jump a few times, then cough and slowly die out. PSI is about 64-65 on both cylinders.

Here's what I've replaced so far: Impeller, thermostat, carb rebuilt, fuel filter, fuel lines.

I've also cleaned and inspected the fuel pump. I noticed that It pushed fuel out with the fuel lines disconnected to the fuel filter, I'm not sure if it's supposed to do that or not, but it's definitely moving fuel. I've tried to adjust the slow needle but no matter what position I put it at I get the same problem.

Finally, gave it new fuel, gapped the plugs, and checked the spark - The spark is bright white. Top cylinder gives me a weak orange spark every once in a while, but it's not consistent. I did take a look at the coils and points through the flywheel and they appear to be in pretty good shape.

This is my first project motor, so just trying to get some more advice on were to go from here as I'm not really sure what the problem could be at this point. It ran pretty well the first time I used but haven't been ablet to get it to start consistently since then.

Quick side note, just noticed my fuel tank doesn't seem to be venting the fumes, have one of those newer plastic ones. Could this be the cause?

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of at least 1/4" on both leads?----Find out why there is weak spark on the top cylinder.----Remove flywheel and post pictures of the magneto.

 

[Dmknox98]

Does spark jump a gap of at least 1/4" on both leads?----Find out why there is weak spark on the top cylinder.----Remove flywheel and post pictures of the magneto.

I don't have a spark plug tester - I'm using alligator clips and grounding them to the cylinder head to check the spark. Not sure how to tell with those.

Yes I know I tore up the bolt, first time taking a fly wheel off and I didn't realize the nut needed to stay on. Luckily the nut still seems to be able to thread.

 

[racerone]

Looks like an all new ignition system.----I always remove the nut when using a 3 bolt puller.-----Need to time the points with a meter.----Inspect o-rings in fuel line connecters.-----Sounds like it is running out of fuel.-----Post a video of it running ?

 

[Dmknox98]

Looks like an all new ignition system.----I always remove the nut when using a 3 bolt puller.-----Need to time the points with a meter.----Inspect o-rings in fuel line connecters.-----Sounds like it is running out of fuel.-----Post a video of it running ?

Yeah looks like the threading is wrecked, so can't pull the rope to start to motor. - bolt is binding and wont go on all the way. It's real bad.

I did use a three bolt puller but I took the bolt off before using the puller. I'll try to take a look at the fuel line connectors later. Reinspect the carb too.

 

[Crosbyman]

first.... to service these oldies J&E being cousins may as well download yourself a free copy of the 10th edition Johnson service manual just print double sided and bind the pages or store on a laptop. Iginition looks new but is that right side point "rub arm" missing the small rub block ??( coud be just a visual thing...)
lots to read... if condensers are not new they may need changing...

to idle well the low speed circuit of the cab must be clean !! see manual carb description even if your specific model is not in the book

BOTH all wires need to be tucked under the coil properly ( see your photo!! ) One seems to be a kill wire close to the rotating cam

is the oiling felt missing ??

https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf

Johnson

to properly adjust the timing see video

compresssion is on the low side try another meter with a shorter hose.

 

[racerone]

The right side is the bottom cylinder.-----The condensers are NOT original .

 

[Crosbyman]

Yes they look new and good ..... tested under real load ? not just a VOM level battery. what about what seems to be magneto kill wires...may as well take those out while testing and gettinng the engine going.

odd looking points ... they almost look to shiny and cheap....better picture needed of rub blocks

make certain the side channel feeding fuel to the top idle needle and top chamber is clean in both top and bottom portion of carb halves !!

 

[Dmknox98]

Yes they look new and good ..... tested under real load ? not just a VOM level battery. what about what seems to be magneto kill wires...may as well take those out while testing and gettinng the engine going.

odd looking points ... they almost look to shiny and cheap....better picture needed of rub blocks

make certain the side channel feeding fuel to the top idle needle and top chamber is clean in both top and bottom portion of carb halves !!


View attachment 420969

I've ran this old girl in a smaller lake on my 14ft jon. She did pretty good that day but afterwards I couldn't get her to stay running again. I figured it was old fuel, but no amount of changing fuel has helped. Checked the lower gear oil and haven't seen any metal or water, but since I'm tearing up the powerhead to replace the damaged crank shaft, I'll probably check out the lower unit too. It probably needs a rebuild anyway.

Thanks, I'll pull the carb apart again and reinspect everything. I'll make sure to replace all the packing and caps this time as well so I can double check everything is clean. Cleaner fluid can get through the jets fine, but I wasn't aware of how much little tiny bits of debris could affect it, so I might have missed something.

I'll take a better picture of the magneto tomorrow now that I have it completely pulled out of the motor.

 

[Dmknox98]

The right side is the bottom cylinder.-----The condensers are NOT original .

Well, the guy who had it before me said he didn't make any changes, so must have been a previous owner who changed them out. Think I should replace them all again?

Got any good tutorials or videos on how to use a meter to test the spark gap?

 

[Nordin]

The coils look like chinese made, they are not OEM, CDI Electronics, EMP or other good brands.
I never use chinese made parts.
Crap in my opinion.
If some other have used chinese made magneto coils and have good experiense of them, please let us know.
The coils are really expensive today and the OEM coils for these OMC 1950-1970es magneto system always crack and need to be replaced.

 

[Mc Tool]

The coils are really expensive today and the OEM coils for these OMC 1950-1970es magneto system always crack and need to be replaced.

But you think the Chinese ones are crap ? I have put Chinese coils on , a suzuki quad ...10 years ago , on my Tohatsu outboard 18months ago and my Toyota car ( 3s-fe motor ) got 4 coil packs , all dirt cheap and all not yet missed a beat . Probly most of the coils made now are made in China ....regardless of the brand name they are sold under .
Do yourself a favor and check out just where stuff is actually made .
Ebay is full of US traders selling stuff that use exactly the same image as the Chinses guys selling the same stuff for waaaay cheaper , freight free and delivery times that beat the crap outs US suppliers .
I bought a bunch of stuff for my quad from Caltec ( US supplier ) Took ages to get here ,freight cost more than the parts and the gaskets were the wrong ones ......ALL the stuff was made in China .