2013 Stingray 198lx engine options

[Amyrick]

I have a 2013 Stringray 198lx with a Mercruiser 4.3 TKS. I bought the boat with a cracked block thinking it would be simple enough to source a used engine. Most the engines around me are early 2000's, I haven't been able to find any used newer ones. I've read that the only years that work with mine are 2008 and up. Is there really that much difference with the 96 and up vortecs and am i able to use them.

 

[Scott06]

I have a 2013 Stringray 198lx with a Mercruiser 4.3 TKS. I bought the boat with a cracked block thinking it would be simple enough to source a used engine. Most the engines around me are early 2000's, I haven't been able to find any used newer ones. I've read that the only years that work with mine are 2008 and up. Is there really that much difference with the 96 and up vortecs and am i able to use them.

No any 96 and up 8 bolt intake vortec will work. I did the same project on a 2004 sea ray the 090M block casting 4.3 uses some metric fasteners . The side motor mounts, starter, and flywheel cover bolts are M10 vs 3/8-16…just had to buy about $40 worth of bolts. shouldnt Be an issue if staying with 96 and up 4.3 s . Just be aware pre 96 4.3 will say vortec on the valve cover but not actually have the 96 and up vortec heads with 8 bolt intake.

you can even get a truck engine strip it to the long block and maranize it. are you looking at complete used marine engines? If so they should drop right in complete plug and play

another option is a reman from a place like Michigan motorz

 

[Amyrick]

No any 96 and up 8 bolt intake vortec will work. I did the same project on a 2004 sea ray the 090M block casting 4.3 uses some metric fasteners . The side motor mounts, starter, and flywheel cover bolts are M10 vs 3/8-16…just had to buy about $40 worth of bolts. shouldnt Be an issue if staying with 96 and up 4.3 s . Just be aware pre 96 4.3 will say vortec on the valve cover but not actually have the 96 and up vortec heads with 8 bolt intake.

you can even get a truck engine strip it to the long block and maranize it. are you looking at complete used marine engines? If so they should drop right in complete plug and play

another option is a reman from a place like Michigan motorz

Originally I was going to go truck engine, Yesterday i found a 2000 or 2001 4.3 Jasper EFI marine engine that came with new exhaust manifolds, comes with out drive and all the controls. Guy wants $1500 for it. I've looked at some remans from marine engines 4 less. I'm just trying to get it going a little sooner.

 

[Scott06]

Originally I was going to go truck engine, Yesterday i found a 2000 or 2001 4.3 Jasper EFI marine engine that came with new exhaust manifolds, comes with out drive and all the controls. Guy wants $1500 for it. I've looked at some remans from marine engines 4 less. I'm just trying to get it going a little sooner.

Jasper seems hit or miss In reviews. truck engine stripped to long block swap head gaskets core plugs (some are brass or stainless already) and marine circ pump. Then swap all your accessories over, you should check your intake and exhaust for cracks. My 4.3 had roached exhaust from freez damage

 

[Amyrick]

Jasper seems hit or miss In reviews. truck engine stripped to long block swap head gaskets core plugs (some are brass or stainless already) and marine circ pump. Then swap all your accessories over, you should check your intake and exhaust for cracks. My 4.3 had roached exhaust from freez damage

I've read the marine cam is different too, is this correct? I believe the exhaust manifolds are good. I believe it was all the guy drained over winter. Intake is also good i checked it. I pulled manifold and found the cracks in the valley. I JB welded them to try to get it on the water before the end of the season, but i must have an internal crack too. The milky oil was already 3/4 the way up the dipstick with 2 hours of idleing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

V6s crack internally and externally, you can't save them with jb weld

If you get a motor from a truck, you need to swap head gaskets to marine and core plugs to brass (note, some automotive engines have stainless core plugs)

Plenty of base Silverados out there with V6s

Check car-part.com

 

[Scott06]

I've read the marine cam is different too, is this correct? I believe the exhaust manifolds are good. I believe it was all the guy drained over winter. Intake is also good i checked it. I pulled manifold and found the cracks in the valley. I JB welded them to try to get it on the water before the end of the season, but i must have an internal crack too. The milky oil was already 3/4 the way up the dipstick with 2 hours of idleing.

you cant really jb weld the internal valley cracks, may also be one in the bottom of the bores/ crank area

generally what we have seen here is the stock truck cam is close enough to work just fine. in the old days cam manufacturers would have a class of cams called towing/RV/marine all ground for low end torque with very little overlap.

the exhaust you can fill with acetone as that will wick through cracks more so than water into the exhaust side.

When I bought mine the water had filled the crannk case and blew out the valve cover vents and went all over. had to pressure wash the bilge with hot water and Bon Ami. was a thick paste all over so good you caught it.

If you can find a good running take out from a wrecking yard that is generally the cheapest way to get their. Reman and new long block are cost step ups from there. As long as you are doing the work it can be done cost effectively. If you are paying a mechanic $150/hr you are not saving any money vs complete bobtail.

I think @nola mike took a wrecking yard 4.3 and mixed and matched stuff to marinize it