fuel sender install w/sealant or dry

[ShoalSurvivor]

I recently installed a new sender with the arm lifting toward the front of the tank, just like the previous. The holes didn't line up perfectly, but I managed to snug it down. That was a mistake! it leaked with a full tank.

Today, I pulled it, separated the arm from the flange and rotated it so that the flange holes line up properly with the tank AND the arm bends in the correct direction.

I reinstalled with some form-a-gasket 3, on both sides of the rubber gasket, then snugged down the 5 bolts... however 1 bolt is slightly cross threaded and the bolt doesn't seat all the way down. The remaining 4 bolts thread down snugly.

I am able to get a solid 3-4 turns before the bad one bottoms out, and it's biting in the top threads, its in a really tight spot, and I don't have a thread restore kit.

I'm considering adding a washer on the one bolt and using form-a-gasket 2, instead of 3, but have seen mixed reviews on using any sealant.

Recommendations?
Thanks!

 

[dingbat]

Gasket (cork?) should be installed dry.

Run a tap through the messed up hole to clean up the threads. Install bolt with fuel resistant sealant

 

[Chris1956]

Regular form-a-gasket is not usually gasoline resistant. It will disolve and cause more trouble.

Permatex makes a gasket dressing that is impervious to gas. It is not real common in stores, so it pays to get it's stock number and then see who has it.

Use a rubber gasket and the dressing, but first, try to chase the threads in the cross threaded hole so it will tighten better.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Gasket (cork?) should be installed dry.

FIXED!!
Turns out that the replacement bolts were just a hair too long for my threaded inserts. I was able to snug them all down and it "felt" snug (w/ zero movement between plate/rubber gasket/tank), but with a full tank, there was a tiny amount of seepage. I added a washer to each bolt and did a test run, and it's dry as a bone... no sealant required.