1990 Force outboard 230ho removed upper bearing by cutting and left a crease need advice

[gica]

So I removed the engine again because it had play up at the flywheel when pulling on it. After removing it I saw that the Loctite 518 near the bearing was brown in color and not red see Pic 3.
It also came off pretty easy so it did not stick. I was having issues with the engine stalling at idle. So I thought the bearing was loose. It doesn't seem loos to the hand. And from the look of the Loctite I don't know if the problem was the bearing or the two halves maybe not tight enough not straight enough or the crank not fully placed. I don't know
. But I tried to remove the bearing and it wouldn't budge so I cut it off diagonally.
I cut a small crease on the seat as you will see in the pics. 1 and 2
Wanna know:
if I can weld and fill it?
If I can leave it alone?
Or if I have to buy another used crankshaft. Found one from an 1988 125hp which has the same crank number as mine 817400T3
Let me know and thanks.

 

[Mc Tool]

Loctite goes like that outside the joint when its old and dry .
Depends on how much /good the other crank is .
That gash is a stress riser ( like how you cut glass ) ........I wouldnt use it tho , if it lets go it will most likely take a good portion of the rest of the motor with it .
Next time get a puller of ali express .

 

[jimmbo]

In my Opinion, that Crank is strictly a Paperweight now. Having it welded, machined, and treated, will cost more than a new replacement

 

[racerone]

As you found out that was the wrong way to remove the bearing.----And do NOT weld on a shaft.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The bearing you removed was a pressed on bearing. It should have been pressed off to avoid any damage. The "loosesness" probably wasn't a problem. When reassembled the collar with the seal would have stopped the wiggle. New bearing might go on with the chill/heat procedure or rig up a press.
Pic is a bearing seperator. used in conjunction with a hyd. press.

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Don't need to weld or fill. The cut probably won't hurt anything?
The loc-tite probably changed color from age.

 

[gica]

The bearing you removed was a pressed on bearing. It should have been pressed off to avoid any damage. The "loosesness" probably wasn't a problem. When reassembled the collar with the seal would have stopped the wiggle. New bearing might go on with the chill/heat procedure or rig up a press.
Pic is a bearing seperator. used in conjunction with a hyd. press.

View attachment 414219​

Don't need to weld or fill. The cut probably won't hurt anything?
The loc-tite probably changed color from age.

Hey Jerry so would you reuse it no problem or get another. The loctite was 2 years old. I rebuilt this engine. It was dying at idle when placed in gear and it had play on the upper bearing. The brown is from the play. I bought the loctite 518 and the noodle rubber string. I will probably use the loctite.
But this for sure was the reason it dies at idle when engaged. I had to up the RPM to 1100 to stay on.
Let me know for sure on the crank seat crease if I can use it as is or not
Thanks to everyone for the responses.

 

[racerone]

The " play " in the bearing means nothing to me.----An actual dial indicator reading would mean something.

 

[alldodge]

Which motors used crank 817400T3 ?

 

[gica]

Which motors used crank 817400T3 ?

90 through 94 120hp and 85 through88 125. I think there were more it's on Crowley Marine website

 

[gica]

The " play " in the bearing means nothing to me.----An actual dial indicator reading would mean something.

My other 120hp has absolutely no play. This one was even making a sound because of the obvious play. For this you don't need a dial it is passed the dial limit for sure. And the fact that the 2 year old Loctite 518 turned brown right at the bearing side
automatically means it had play there. I checked the surface of the 2 halves and they are both straight no bend. I understand the dial need to check it being true. Maybe I should just get another
Crank and maybe that would eliminate the confusion.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Get a new crank

 

[gica]

Get a new crank

Looking into it. I found a 1992 one for the same engine. It should be fine they were all the same to 94.

 

[jerryjerry05]

boats.net has a good parts breakdown.

 

[gica]

boats.net has a good parts breakdown.

Thanks Jerry there are several that do I found really cheap parts at marine engine. The crank was 215 brand new including the bearing on top. The king pin and 2 plastic so called bearings 18 bucks so I got 2. I will do the other engine. I wish I did it last summer when I rebuilt it. Of well I a getting good at removing these things. They are so easy to work on.
Thank God there are still parts available.