Golden Jubilee Evi Sportwin 10 - Should I convert?

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Jan 17, 2019
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any links to source these modules $$$ ??? etc... Mag ingnition has been around for all these years and isn't that bad considering but if modules are cost effective ..

a lot of these oldies are perfectly fine and were used few hours /summer on trips then stored away most of their lives.
i have a good supply of the red Sierra Magnatune or ATOM ignition modules. you can use green as well. seem to be the same. they do have a couple on ebay. but the reason i said aftermarket coils is so you can use any cheapo stens or nova 2 modules with those with great reliability. the ATOM/sierra magnatunes will work literally for the life of the motor even w. stock coils. the custom darlington transistors in those are not made anymore an were specifically designed for these systems. the best part? you can keep your old points ignition as a backup if you want (no need for me as i have atoms) just set the points to not touch (.060'' or so). i put the modules outside of the motor so they are cooler than under the flywheel, and take me literally 1 minute to change should one fail (again never have).
 

LaqueRatt

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That's an interesting idea, but this one is a low budget project. I'm just getting it going for fun. Thinking of throwing two cheap coils in it at putting the fuel pump on it, set what I can set, and go from there.
 

Crosbyman

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As per racerone... check thermostat see what I found on a 6hp project currently underway. Condensers were tested good :) at 275V Points look new or certainly useable.

here is a good link with lots of info for you

see western region aomci articles on condensers and outboard ignition lots to read ... download articles for safeguarding from the bottom list of links
 

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racerone

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The air line on your motor now is---- NOT A PULSE LINE.----Air only flows one way.
 

Crosbyman

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if you plan to use the air barb behind the carb you MUST follow the video and seal one channel and remove the flapper valve. This is why using a bypass cover from a 60s engine with proper moldings to mount the square pump is so easy .

other wise see pictures on how to get a crankcase pulse by plate mounting over a drilled bypass cover ( and plug the air barb) or if you use a 3 hose pulse pump install an elbow has shown.

visit UTUBES on the subject
 

LaqueRatt

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The air line on your motor now is---- NOT A PULSE LINE.----Air only flows one way.
Thanks, got it. I was thinking along the lines of making an alum plate, tapping for a hose barb and hooking THAT up to a fuel pump that would accept a hose. Doesn't somebody make a fuel pump that doesn't have to be mounted to the motor to work? I know the best solution is the newer bypass cover with the fuel pump mount, but what are the odds of finding this oddball piece that was only used for a few years?
 

racerone

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There are people at ----aomci----Who have lots of these bypass covers.-----Post a wanted ad there.----There are other places that have these covers as well.---Depends on your location and whether shops work on these motors.---Some might have 1 or 2 under a work bench.----
 

Crosbyman

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actually it is not that complicated to mount on a aluminum plate about 1/16 or 3/32 inch thick plate with a 1/4 hole directly facing the back of the square pump pulse hole and the plate itself mounted over the existing by pass cover itself drilled 1/4 inch behind the plate hole behind the pump's pulse hole. then l you do is plug the air barb with a short piece of hose and a bolt in it & tye wrapped

just get yourself some longer bolts if need be to reach the bypass cover and small ones to mount the pump on the plate .. use nylock nuts
 

LaqueRatt

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Racer: Thanks for your learned input. Don't you have to be a member though to post on aomci? I was also thinking of hitting up the local marina, but the old boy who owns it probably hasn't opened it yet. There is a 2nd marina, but they roll their eyes and act like I'm just being a PITA when I ask them about parts for old motors.

Crosby: Thanks for all that, Think I get what your'e saying, but why reuse the old cover, is it because otherwise vac will leak around the mounting screws?

Think I may have located a vac tank, but I'll bet the hose on it is toast, even though it looks intact.
 

racerone

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???----What do you mean by " vacuum tank " here?-----If in Canada----evinrudeparts.ca----might offer help.
 

Crosbyman

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Racer: Thanks for your learned input. Don't you have to be a member though to post on aomci? I was also thinking of hitting up the local marina, but the old boy who owns it probably hasn't opened it yet. There is a 2nd marina, but they roll their eyes and act like I'm just being a PITA when I ask them about parts for old motors.

Crosby: Thanks for all that, Think I get what your'e saying, but why reuse the old cover, is it because otherwise vac will leak around the mounting screws?

Think I may have located a vac tank, but I'll bet the hose on it is toast, even though it looks intact.
the old bypass cover has a slanted shape to guide the incoming rush of fuel air mix towards the cyl ports. Useful or not ? it was design intent so I would leave them in place and just mount the aluminum plate over it. You may want to flatten the bypass cover dead plat until shiny to ensure a good mate with the plate. Just "circle 8" rub it on a flat piece of glass or large ceramic tile using 100 grit sand paper. If worried you could add a piece of gasket paper using the bypass cover as template. Bolts will not cause loss of vacum or pulse pressure.


btw a 2 line tank is a PRESSURE tank not vacum. pumped air from the air barb will pressurize the tanks and full will push up. pumping it manually will feed fuel enough to run the motor to have the air pressure build up in the tank.

if you plan working on oldies 2 good books for you

One is the Johnson service manual and covers all you need J&E are cousins 400 pages ++
download and print locally ..store on your PC or laptop

the other is "CHEAP OUTBOARDS" beginners guide ..... to $$$$ in paper :-( form
so just download
 
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LaqueRatt

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You guys rock! Many thanks. Feeling confident now that I can make this thing work. Without sinking a ton of money into a motor that prob has little value. I was wondering about the strange shape of the bypass covers. Makes sense now. One more question, what exactly is being bypassed?
 

racerone

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It is a passage way.----- The fresh air / fuel mix is compressed under the piston.-----It then flows into the cylinder via that passage way.----Please study the way that a simple 2 stroke works.
 

TN-25

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OMC used pressurized 2-line fuel tanks from 1949 on the Johnson 10, through 1959 on the 5½, 10 & 18 (the 7½ was gone after '58). The "deluxe" 35s (Lark, Golden Javelin) used a fuel pump, & by '59 all 35s used it as well.

The OMC Accessory catalogues showed that pressurized fuel tanks were still available new through the entire 1970s. They were a continuation of the 1958/59 style tanks but also included a glass sight with a fuel gauge, and carried the OMC Accessories decals. Although the price appeared twice as much as the non-pressure tank, it included lots of hose. You had to buy the hose separately for the regular non-pressurized tank, and that will bring the prices closer to each other.
I should have bought a couple of pressure tanks back then.

It's funny, but Gale (Buccaneer) was the value division at OMC, yet they started offering fuel pump kits as an option for their 12-hp motor in 1954. They used a single line & no pressure, yet OMC was very mum on the feature while they rolled it out on Gales & other department store brand outboards.
The first motor Gale made standard with the fuel pump was the 1955 Gale 22 horse.
 

LaqueRatt

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Making some progress. Got the pump mounting plate done. Glad I reread all you guys' tips again. I was getting read to tap it for stove bolts, now I'll use nuts on the back as advised. Heat won't melt the nylon insert will it?
 
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