Alpha one Gen 2 u-joints

[Smokey988]

I just removed the alpha one Gen 2 sterndrive off my 2007 four winns h183 to do the fall maintenance and noticed the u-joints which are sealed show what looks like a little bit of grease leak around the uj caps.

Is this common or should they be replaced? I know they were changed 3 years ago but they did spend last summer in a leaky bellows full of water. Last year I did not notice the grease marks but now that it was nice and dry in the bellows the grease marks were really visible.


Thanks in advance.

 

[tpenfield]

When you say 'sealed' do you mean to say they are non grease-able (no grease zerk)?

You will get some grease seepage, but considering you had water in the bellows it would be best to change them. Any growling noise during turns, etc.?

I'd also get the kind that you can grease each year.

 

[Smokey988]

When you say 'sealed' do you mean to say they are non grease-able (no grease zerk)?

You will get some grease seepage, but considering you had water in the bellows it would be best to change them. Any growling noise during turns, etc.?

I'd also get the kind that you can grease each year.

Yes no grease zerks and no noise at all when straight or in turns. A bit of a vibration around 1100-1300 rpm but that has existed since I purchased the boat 2 years ago. No vibration while at idle or at wot, only that one spot around 1100-1300 rpm which is right around no wake speed.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Install greasable ones. Running in water wrecked them.

 

[Smokey988]

Install greasable ones. Running in water wrecked them.

Thanks Rick. I have read in previous posts you use automotive u-joints. I am looking for some cross reference #'s for the external clip ujoints but come up with nothing.

 

[Rick Stephens]

The list in the stickies is for internals, which is what I have on my drive. Unfortunately I've never seen a list for external clip crosses. They are absolutely cross over capable.... nothing at all special about the u-joints themselves - the crosses Merc and Sierra sell are not made by either Merc or Sierra but by regular automotive manufacturers. Yeah, the ones Merc use are the heavier built models. Crossing that over to automotive should not be that difficult.

 

[Scott06]

I believe Moog 344 or Spicer 5-1306X will cross reference to the external cliped ones u need but you maybe want to check the sizes as I just got this off of here or marine engine forum .

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Hi, Ive got OEM replacement for this ujoints, its GKN style, let me know on priv

 

[Mad Props]

The ujoints in my alpha 1 gen 2 were not the ones in the automotive cross-ref list as well... I did a lot of research, on spicer and moog websites... The specific ujoints used in the drive unfortunately does not exist in a (standard) automotive application... I found zero sources for cheaper unjoints outside of Sierra/Merc

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Hi there, Im from Europe and I have fount original GKN with same size as the OEM (most probably they are the same but w/o Merc brand and are greasable!)

 

[Smokey988]

I removed u-joints and as suspected they were in fairly rough shape with little to no grease left in them. When trying to remove the large retainer nut of course a few of the tabs broke off so that now has to replaced as well.

If the bearings turn smoothly on the gear do they still need to be removed for proper rolling torque or should I check the rolling torque first to see if it is within range? The bearings and gear do not look exactly the easiest to separate even after reading the service manual like 100 times. I have added a few pictures of the gear and bearing assembly from my upper unit which look a little different from what I see online..

The plan is to use a CDI 0-30 in/lb dial indicating torque wrench to set the rolling torque.

 

[nola mike]

Why did you remove everything from the input shaft?

 

[Smokey988]

Why did you remove everything from the input shaft?

Have to replace the large retainer nut because tabs were broken.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Bearings have to be separated a little bit before redoing the rolling torque. Either with a bearing splitter, or you can use a plastic deadblow hammer and give the shaft a solid tap to make a small gap before reassembling.

Inspect visually the bearings and races. Any marring or pattered shiny spots and they get replaced.

 

[Smokey988]

Bearings have to be separated a little bit before redoing the rolling torque. Either with a bearing splitter, or you can use a plastic deadblow hammer and give the shaft a solid tap to make a small gap before reassembling.

Inspect visually the bearings and races. Any marring or pattered shiny spots and they get replaced.

Thanks. I was just reading what @muc had said in another thread and I will give that a try with a hammer on the thread end while holding the bearing race closest to the gear.

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Hi guys, can somebody take a photo or make a video about this? I dont get this instruction.."Because picture is better than 100words ". sorry English is not my mother lang... and that would be much convenient for me

Take care Guys

 

[Scott06]

this shows how to do the preload

 

[Kubaat3lover]

But i mean the separation method, for example when you overtorque them or when you need to replace seal and o ring there

 

[Smokey988]

But i mean the separation method, for example when you overtorque them or when you need to replace seal and o ring there

I am going to try this method on the weekend and will post results with pictures.

 

[Kubaat3lover]

Thanks! Pics and video and You will be blessed