Restoring 1979 Glastron V-162 Futura

[Original Thor]

So I tabbed in my transom late last night and got home from work and this is what I found. I seems all good and solid and I used a pile of resin and didn't look like that when i left it. It was already setup and couldn't be worked anymore. Do you think its just the old tabbing that I didn't grind down all the way just transfering the white colors of the old fibers?

 

[Original Thor]

I drilled a couple of holes in it and all seams really solid and the first 1/8 is clear so I just wondering if its just the old tabbing showing through the new clear epoxy. I cleaned the whole boat really well with acetone and cleaning it again as I'm putting new layers on.

 

[kcassells]

Thor to me it looks like a bunch of csm balled up in that spot that was wetted out. Looks solid to me.

 

[Original Thor]

Ok cool. The transom is like a rock compared to what it use to be. I could move it back and forth a inch or so. I took 10 or more measurements and double checked them last night aswell and all within a 1/8 or less. So I'm happy cause I never thought it would of been that solid once all tabbed in and no more one inch gap on the bottom of it anymore.

I was given o about 40 feet by 50 inches of 1.5 oz csm fiberglass mat from my cousin so I might do the csm woven csm laying. Since it was free. Little more work

 

[kcassells]

Here is what 1.5 oz mat is used for;
[SIZE=+1]Fiberglass Mat[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Chopped strand mat is very economical and offers good stiffness. However, for greater strength
and a lower weight product biaxials and woven cloth fabrics are generally used.
All the following mats are compatible for use with [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]polyester resins[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] and [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]vinyl ester resin[/SIZE][SIZE=-1].

Note; Not used for strength.[/SIZE]

 

[Original Thor]

Yes that's what I've been telling the boat stores around here. They claim that a few layers of 1.5 csm on stringers and good to go. I say no way I want 1708 and they come up with a random ridiculous price. One place was 1400 bucks. That's two times more then what I paid for the boat lol. I need 17 yards. Best I found in Canada is 500. Including shipping. Does that sound fair? I really dont like the boat stores around here cause everytime I go to get anything the first words are why should you do that and how does the motor run. Who puts money into a glastron. Drives me nuts. Nobody does what I want to do and just pushes the old boat in the bush and leaves it for the next home owner. That's my rant for the day lol. Just frustrating.

Thanks for the help and the right direction to go. Saving my boat from finding the bottom of a lake.

 

[Original Thor]

Well after a nice week at the lake I'm back working on the boat. I wasn't happy how some of the old tabbing looked so I busted out the grinder and tyvek suit yesterday and went to town on it and looks 100 percent better. Wasn't the easiest with the stringers in but got it done. My order of 1708 came in while I was gone. I got it from fibertek in barnaby BC for a excellent price and shipped to me in a week. Hope to get my cross braces in today and tabbing done then call some reinforcement to mix me resin while doing the stringers.

 

[Original Thor]

Oops forgot the picture. It's still needs a good cleaning. After swimming in a tyvek suit and a few beers it was early to hed last night. Lol

 

[Original Thor]

I got the cross members all in and stringers all bedded up. I was having fun time trying to get it nice smooth at the beginning but towards the end I got better. And man does that stuff eat up the resin. Also cut a bunch of strips for the stringers so hopefully in the next few days I'll have them wrapped up.

 

[kcassells]

Soak the crapola out of the woodyee. Lumber not ply?
looks good.

 

[Original Thor]

Thanks it's coming along. And yeah wood no plywood. I just couldn't justify spending 140 bucks for a sheet of exterior grade plywood for 14 inches of it I would of used. Those board are oddly enough 12 years old sitting in the back of the warehouse at the lumber yard. Straight as a arrow. And were cheap too. 1x12 16 footer for only 20 bucks.

Edges are all routered and a second coat of resin on the stringers tonight. Mat is all cut up and ready to be laid hopefully tomorrow night.

I also cut out the old tie down blocks in the back which is a good thing cause one wasnt in the best of shape and I got a hole to fix beside it. So hopefully I'm done grinding. I will say after going through 2 flapper disks that I had I went to my hardware store and buddy sold me this pad by Hilti and it worked awesome. Costed me 20 bucks but that's the shape of it after all my grinding.

 

[Woodonglass]

Are you using Poly Resin?

 

[Original Thor]

Yes I am. I got a guy that I buy all my fiberglass septic tanks from so I am able to buy it at bulk pricing which is a nice savings.

Tabbed in my cross members and coated them once with 1708 which is already better than factory. They were just thrown in there loose so what I'm doing is 10 times better I figured.

I also cut up some pieces and put it on either side of the transom which were fun to do cause of so many angles but oddly enough they turned out better then my crossmembers. Maybe it was the resin or beer getting to me. Or just got the hang of how to lay this stuff. Diefinatly little different then stuff I'm use to working with.

Tomorrow the boys are coming over and we are gonna do the stringers. Got a resin mixer a pre wetter and I'm the layer so hopefully should go smoothly. Fingers crossed.

 

[Original Thor]

Well I had to work late yesterday cause it got pretty warm out and I had a/c units failing all over the place. It would of sucked doing it anyways it being that warm cause I sweated my butt off today and got it all done. I even did a layer on the transom tonight just cause I for some reason have a abundance of 1708. Like I mean still half the roll left it's looking. I dont know if they screwed up and sent me 17 pounds instead of 17 yards but I've cut off 52 feet and still have lots. Think I might do the floor in it.

Couple of questions I got a couple of spots on the top and sides of the middle stringer cause it got warm out and was setting up on me quickly. They didn't wet out as nice as the outside stringers. Should I just drill a small hole and inject resin in there? And theres couple spots on my over laps that didn't want to lay down nice for me what so ever. Nothing compared to the gaps like the factory but there a little white. I'll get some better pics tomorrow morning.

Other question is I got a pile of foam blocks that I used for building a guys dock with. There 8 inches tall 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. Since the factory foam was just thrown in there lose I'm assuming its not structural and I'm pretty sure I can do a better job of carving it up to fit in there nice and glueing it in with expandable foam. Think that's would be good?

 

[tpenfield]

You could open up the dry spots with a coarse sander or grinder, then re-glass the area to get proper wet-out.

You may not need to use glue for the foam blocks. If they are loose, then they can have some air around them so as not to be absorbing moisture . . . not that they would readily absorb, but over years and years. Have you considered some weep holes in the stringer chambers to allow water from condensation to escape?

 

[tpenfield]

Additional thought . . . if you are having trouble with the resin 'kicking' too quickly there are a couple ways of slowing it down.

Start with cold resin (50˚ F ish) and then the heat of the day will bring it up to a temperature where it will catalyze.

Use an inhibitor or a slow catalyst to give you about 1 hour of working time. I used Norox MCP harder on a recent project, IIRC. I also used TBC inhibitor, which had similar slowing effects on the gel time. MCP probably is the easiest to use.

 

[kcassells]

Ypu can also keep the mix in a bucket of ice to slow off kick.

 

[Original Thor]

Yeah I never thought of throwing the gallon jug in the fridge. I even remember reading that. We were just cruising along and was raining all day but as soon as that sun came out and warmed up it went off quickly. These are my two worse spots but for the most part it turned out pretty good for a first timer. I'll fix them up today.

I had thought about putting in weep holes but the factory didn't have any to the back bilge area. I had to make my own to drain the water out of it when I was finding the holes in it. Is that wierd that there was non. Maybe they forgot to put them in I dunno. I do plan on sealing the floor so no water will hopefully make it to the stringer area.

 

[kcassells]

On another note and it may have been mentioned most mfg's make mixes for summer, winter and fall. Lets
working with it based on season a lot easier. I switch in winter/summer.

 

[Original Thor]

You could open up the dry spots with a coarse sander or grinder, then re-glass the area to get proper wet-out.

You may not need to use glue for the foam blocks. If they are loose, then they can have some air around them so as not to be absorbing moisture . . . not that they would readily absorb, but over years and years. Have you considered some weep holes in the stringer chambers to allow water from condensation to escape?

I reread your post and yeah I never thought about condensation building up in those chambers. When I tore it apart the bottom of the plywood was so moldy. There is a hole in the bow of the boat in the plywood I left. So if I drilled some say half inch holes in my cross members and then at the back once the floor is in I put in some stand pipes as high as I can to the cap think that would work?