Refinishing small fiberglass hull

[wgould]

I'm refinishing my 13.5 Boston whaler. I've sanded the gel coat and patched everything with marine Tex and now I just need to apply the final layer. But I don't know what the best thing to use is. I heard about using rhino liner, but that doesn't work, then I heard about gluvit, but it was always talked about in relation to aluminum hulls. I'm looking for a paint or something similar that I can cover the fiberglass hull and sanded down gel coat with that will seal it and give the boat protection. (I'm not interested in just re-gel coating it) (and I'm not looking for tractor paint). Thanks guys

 

[Scott Danforth]

Rhino liner would be for the inside

Since you dont want gel or tractor paint, you have marine paint left

 

[zool]

And if you are gonna use marine paint, generally you use the associated epoxy primer as the sealer...the tech sheet for the paint system will guide you as what to seal it with.

 

[wgould]

What is a good marine paint to use?

 

[wgould]

Also would tractor paint still even work on a fiberglass hull, not aluminum?

 

[zool]

Paints just a matter of money, and you generally get what you pay for.......Most paints will work fine on a glass hull, its a good substrate. Some you can apply with a brush or spray, and some are spray only...so it depends on your equipment too.

Tractor paint or Rustoleum would be the least expensive, and will work fine. Automotive and Marine paints would be more expensive.

Marine paints include brands like Awlgrip/Awlcraft, Interlux, Pettit to name a few (Brush or Spray) $$-$$$$

Oil enamels include brands like Majic, Rustoleum (Brush or Spray) $

Auto paints by PPG, Dupont, Shermin Williams, ect (spray only) $$-$$$$


Hope this helps

 

[jbcurt00]

Rusto/tractor (or any oil bases enamel) isnt a good choice if you intend to leave the boat in the water for more then a couple of days, even if you use an added enamel hardener (which I recommend).

Trailer boat, yep, good choice, lots here have used it w great results, esp w the added hardener.

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree.. The only issue with Tractor/Rustoleum paint is the length of time in the water. If you leave her moored to the dock, Then I'd use epoxy paint. If she's trailered I'm a BIG FAN of the Tractor Paint. Especially if you're on a tight budget.

 

[zool]

Actually, None of those paints are rated for below the water line on moored boats, if ur gonna leave it in a slip, paint above the water line, and use a barrier coat and anti fouling paint below the water line, over lightly sanded gel coat.

 

[Woodonglass]

So true^^^^ I didn't intend to mislead the OP. Anything staying in the water for extended periods of time needs the AntiFouling Bottom Paint.

 

[Big Gee]

I haven't tried it yet, but FASCO epoxy paint looks interesting and might work for you.

http://fascoepoxies.com/FASCO-9XN-Steel-Flex-Epoxy-Coating-Neutral.html

 

[Bonaventure]

Some epoxy paints do not react well to Ultraviolet Rays. When I was an Aircraft Refinisher in the Military, we touched up Polyurethane Finishes with epoxy. After a time, the epoxy would go "Chauky" due to exposure to sunlight.

Two-part Polyurethanes, especially when sprayed should be done by a Professional. The safety concerns require Air Supplied Respirator. Even the mixing of the 2 components can generate high amounts of iso-cyanates, which are very toxic. A Cartridge Respirator will not stop iso-cyanates, which will reach toxic proportions before they can be detected by smell.

Epoxy would be fine if the boat is not left out in the sun, should be stored indoors for best results.

There may be some epoxy finishes that have ultraviolet inhibitors that will make them suitable to sit at a mooring, I would ask the supplier.

 

[zool]

I haven't tried it yet, but FASCO epoxy paint looks interesting and might work for you.

http://fascoepoxies.com/FASCO-9XN-Steel-Flex-Epoxy-Coating-Neutral.html

Fasco appears to be just an epoxy resin and pigment for color and not a paint. Its solvent free so it lacks a carrier for flow control. The product appears to be concentrated on protection and not asthetics. I suppose it could be used as a barrier coat under bottom paint, but other formulations are available for just that purpose and require little to no prep before overcoating.

And yes, you need to use proper PPE (personal protection equipment) with any catalyzed product, that goes for the tractor paint with an added hardener, the auto paints as well as the linear polys.

 

[wgould]

You guys have been super helpful, thanks for all of your input. The boat is trailered, but I do leave it in for up to a week or two at a time. Do you think this would be a good product to use? http://www.boatersland.com/int-v127...MIrJil9N2n1wIVVm1-Ch1ZZAo7EAQYAiABEgK8MvD_BwE

Thanks again for y?all?s help so far!

 

[zool]

Yes, VC is good as a stand alone product if anti fouling properties are not needed. If u only leave it in the water for a week or two at a time, you can always just scrub or pressure wash off any growth you get after an extended mooring. Especially if it in fresh water.

If u feel u need antifouling paint, you can use Interlux Barrier-Kote or Interprotect 2000e and apply an ablative anti fouling paint over it every other year.