1966 Starcraft Holiday Engine Repower

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Looking good!! Never thought about a GPS Speedometer, didn't know they made those. Figured I would base my speed off of my GPS fish-finder.
 

Watermann

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I would put the gauge with the cluster inside it closest to the helm as the small gauges are more difficult to see with the speedo furthest away as it's least important.

fetch
 

66Holiday924

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I would put the gauge with the cluster inside it closest to the helm as the small gauges are more difficult to see with the speedo furthest away as it's least important.

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That's how I am going to do it.
 

66Holiday924

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Day 26:

On Day 26 I can say that I got most of the holes in my dash drilled out for my instruments & helm. I'm happy with how it's going so far. I still need to drill out my pull switch holes and the ignition. I'm waiting to ask the mechanic if the new ignition switch I bought is right, before I drill that hole, and I'm waiting on another 3 position pull switch (in the mail) before I drill them out. I can live with the results so far though! :thumb:

Other than that I dropped off my boat, and the Thompson (donor boat) at the mechanic's shop. He is going to remove all the mechanics that I want, and place them in the Starcraft for later installation. I'm going to have the engine ratchet strapped to a pallet, and I'm going to screw the Pallet to the floor. I'm salvaging the Gimbal assembly, engine, outdrive, and the trim. It was all in working order when I looked a the boat. The engine was a little sluggish getting up to speed, but the guy said he never had the Carb rebuilt, did a tune-up, and I think the foam in the glasser is water logged. Anyway, for the $1000 that I paid, for the donor boat, I feel like I can't lose on the deal. Especially since I'm going to sell the trailer and probably get half the money back.

So, there is a video of another glasser meeting its doom coming in the near future. I don't have a you tube account though. I have to get somebody to post he video for me when I get it.
 

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66Holiday924

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Day 27:

Today I started re-wiring my boat. This is a totally new one for me. The boat goes to Wisconsin for the engine install, in October. I'm going to try to slowly work through re-wiring as much as I can before it goes, and try to save myself the best I can from paying them $100/hour to do it. I think it's going good so far. I stripped about a quarter inch off the ends of my wires, pushed the connectors on as far as they would go, and crimped. They all feel pretty good and secure. I decided to start with daisy chaining the gauges: grounds (black), ignition (purple), and instrument lights (blue). I'm hoping you guys are looking at what I'm doing, and are going to smack me when you see me screwing this up.:brick:
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

There's going to be a Fuse Panel, with a (-) bus, and large feeds running back to the battery, mounted in the open area on my dash (next to the three large gauges)

:help: Questions & Concerns of the Day:

For the Instrument lighting feed, I'm planning on wiring the Instrument Light Wire (blue) from: Trim Gauge to the Navigation Light Switch, since it is the closest gauge to the switch. Then, the switch will be wired to the Fuse Panel. That should complete that circuit, right?

I plan on grounding out the daisy chain by running a ground from the Speedometer to the (-) bus on the fuse panel, since it will be the closest gauge to it. <---- Any problem with this?

I have a 4 prong ignition switch. The terminals are labeled "A" - "B" - "C?" - and "I". I believe the wire coming out of terminal "B" is the wire that feeds the gauges, right? Can I just run that to any gauge? After it's run to one of the gauges, I think that completes that circuit.
 

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Watermann

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Yes power to just one of the daisy chained gauges will power them all in the chain. I'm not sure which terminal on your switch is switched power but a multi-meter from the main power to the terminals will show continuity when switched on. The only issue would be that it's running 20 amps to the gauges unless you go to the fuse block first, next to the switch terminal and then to the gauge. The more wire you run the more it starts to look like a snarled mess, you could also add an inline fuse to get the amps down.
 

66Holiday924

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The only issue would be that it's running 20 amps to the gauges unless you go to the fuse block first, next to the switch terminal and then to the gauge. The more wire you run the more it starts to look like a snarled mess, you could also add an inline fuse to get the amps down.

Are you saying I should run my ignition feed (purple) through my fuse panel? Is that normally how that's done? I don't think the Thompson (donor boat) is wired that way, but it's a25 year old boat. I don't think the fuse has any bearing on the amperage being used. If you go over the amperage of the fuse it'll just blow the fuse, and spare the wire, but I don't think the fuse will lower amps.
 

66Holiday924

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Ok, I took another look at some pictures I snapped of the Thompson. It does have a protected wire. It looks like it has a wire that goes through a breaker, and then goes to the fuse panel. The wire is Red & Purple. My ignition switch has three wires, one is pink & purple with an inline 20 amp fuse, it must be that wire. I think my new switch is "New-Old" stock, and the red faded to a pink color.

I have another wire coming off the ignition that is Yellow with a Red Stripe, going by ABYC, that should be the wire that goes to the solenoid.

The other wire is purple, going by ABYC, that would feed my gauges. On the Thompson, it is unprotected.

Attached are the pictures of the Thompson.
 

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Watermann

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You can follow what you think is best but I fused the power to my gauges, I believe 5 amp or 10 amp.
 

66Holiday924

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Watermann

I was referring to the Chief today and I noticed there's another piece of wood over top of you horse collar, in the first picture taken after the gimbal assembly was installed. In the pictures around on about pages 38-40. I can see the horse collar is white, but on in the pictures on the pages (early 50's), there's another piece of wood that is naked. Must go over top of the horse collar? Am I missing something?
 

Watermann

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No extra piece, I changed the horse collar out after having to adjust the keyhole. I used spar urethane to seal it before gluing it on so that's why it wasn't painted.
 

66Holiday924

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I'm looking at the way things were wired on the donor boat, considering how I want to use my boat, thinking about what makes sense for my purposes, and I think I'm going to eliminate using the protected Purple/Red wire coming off my ignition switch. It appears that this wire's function was to supply power to the fuse panel, so the accessories (bilge, blower, lights, etc.) on the dash would work. I'm pretty sure that would mean that those items would not work unless the key was in the run position (not necessarily started), and I don't want to have to turn the key to use any of those things.

Talking to people, and reading, I gather that as long as everything is properly protected, there is no rule or law regarding the set-up of the wiring. They say think about how you'll use the boat, and do what makes sense. For me, and the way I'm going to use my boat, I think I need a battery switch. I'm going to have a main battery switch that shuts down every electrical component on the boat. This boat is going to be trailered, possibly a month or two at a time, without use. It makes sense to have a convenient way to shut the whole thing down while it's not being used, so nothing drains the battery. I'm thinking, if I use the boat for the day, or rent a cottage for a week or two (where the boat will be docked and used daily), I turn the main switch on and use it (whether it be for the day or two weeks), then turn the main switch off when it goes back on the trailer. So, docked at a cottage for two weeks, the switch stays on, and I'll have to make sure the individual electronics are turned off every day after use, with the bilge switch on auto.

So as far as wiring, my fuse block behind the dash (which distributes power to all the accessories) will be fed directly from the battery, through the main switch. It won't be routed through the ignition, so I think that eliminates that wire. Is there anything wrong with this plan?
 

66Holiday924

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Day 28:

My boat has an engine in it. It's about 5' away from where it would be any use, but there is an engine in my boat. The mechanic said he didn't look at it very close, but on the surface and what he did see, he said it looks like a clean little engine.

Today I started the boring daunting task of stripping the donor boat. I hope it's in the dump by the end of the day Wednesday. I've got most of everything I want to try to sell off of it. I have to hand it to Thompson, that is one solid hull! There wasn't any rot in the transom. I drilled a hole in the bottom to let out trapped water (why pay for water weight at the dump), it's a boat that's been open to the elements for the last year, and only about a half gallon of water came out. The transom and hull were still pretty solid as far as I can see. Other than that, everything else is pretty much rotted, floor, panels, console, etc., basically everything that's going to rot if the owner isn't keeping it covered properly. It's too bad, it would probably still be a nice little boat, if it were kept covered properly.
 

Watermann

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Having a master kill switch is a great idea and I have one thing I would suggest. All boats that have a float activated bilge pump should have a direct connection of the float switch to the battery that is fused of course. That way you can kill the whole boat but if that float gets lifted it will pump out your bilge.
 

66Holiday924

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Having a master kill switch is a great idea and I have one thing I would suggest. All boats that have a float activated bilge pump should have a direct connection of the float switch to the battery that is fused of course. That way you can kill the whole boat but if that float gets lifted it will pump out your bilge.

That is good advice and I've thought about it and if I change the way I use my boat, like if I decide to dock it for the season, I'm going to have to change some things. In that scenario the bilge has to be able to run, so I would hard wire it to the battery for sure, or set-up shore power. Since my boat is going to be trailered (with the plug removed) I'd rather have the bilge be killed with the main switch too. For my purpose, knowing my boat will be trailered for weeks between uses, it doesn't make sense to me to have juice running to anything whatsoever. When I use my boat for the day or two week, the plan is to leave the main on for the entire duration, from the time It's taken off the trailer to the time it's put back on, whether that be the entire day or two weeks. If the boats in the water, the main switch is on, and the bilge is on auto. I think that's what makes sense for my purpose, and I'll definitely have to make some changes if I decide to dock the boat.

On a side note, my bilge doesn't have a float, it has a built in water sensor. I don't know how it works.
 

Watermann

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A sensor? I would imagine it's an internal float model.
 

66Holiday924

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It's a Rule-Mate 500 GPH fully automated bilge pump with "water sensing technology" Model RM500A
 
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