1993 Larson 200SEi

jbcurt00

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I agree w Ez's assessment of the pix and general condition.

Inadequate repairs in the past are likely to have made a bad situation worse.

JASinIL probably hoped for the best on his transom too.
 

dlogvine

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I agree w Ez's assessment of the pix and general condition.

Inadequate repairs in the past are likely to have made a bad situation worse.

JASinIL probably hoped for the best on his transom too.


Ill definitely look even closer at the transom but besides me two contractors I asked to estimate the cost of the body repair said that transom was in good shape. Is there any other way besides visual and knocking on the panels to determine how strong is the transom?
 

jbcurt00

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Core 1/4in holes 1.5in deep from the inside in a few areas randomly up/down across the transom

As JASinIL said, check around the platform mounts
 

gsxrdan

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Aug 28, 2016
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Looks like there was just resin on that deck with no glassfiber at all. The work you have done in the interior looks good, great start to a worthwhile project there! There is at least 1 member here who redid the whole boat except the transom, cause the transom was fine... then had to re-redo everything to fix the rotten transom, cost twice as much as doing it right first time... i thought my transom was fine, but once the stringers came out i found the rot - now im super relieved to have a solid trustworthy transom behind me! (and it wasn't that much extra work or cost). Good luck with it!
 

Baylinerchuck

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Looks like there was just resin on that deck with no glassfiber at all. The work you have done in the interior looks good, great start to a worthwhile project there! There is at least 1 member here who redid the whole boat except the transom, cause the transom was fine... then had to re-redo everything to fix the rotten transom, cost twice as much as doing it right first time... i thought my transom was fine, but once the stringers came out i found the rot - now im super relieved to have a solid trustworthy transom behind me! (and it wasn't that much extra work or cost). Good luck with it!

Very true on my resto as well. I thought my transom was solid, but like a lot of others here found rot when digging in. Carpet, gel coat, and fiberglass cover many evils lurking below.
 

dlogvine

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Question, I'm reaping up the deck today or tomorrow, what plywood should I use to replace the old deck? The thickest one I saw was 3/4" but it looks a little too much. The old deck was about 1/2". Please advise. The stringers are bad in different places soft rot. Since this is a budget project that I'll sell, I was wondering if I can use git rot to restore the stringers and reinforce them with plywood and fiberglass on the sides. Honestly I'm already way over budget and spend too much time on this boat to tear the engine up again and replace the whole structure. I will do it if absolutely necessary, but would like to cut some corners. This project is definitely taking a lot more time and resources than I planned.
 

Baylinerchuck

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1/2" or 3/4" BCX exterior grade plywood properly encapsulated will last a very long time. Rotten wood needs to be replaced, it's just gotta come out. If you're gonna sell the boat maybe you sell it now as is. If you're already losing money as you say, and don't want to put the necessary time in, why not stop the bleeding now. Properly fixing this boat is going to take a bunch more time and money.
 

JASinIL2006

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My Larson had 1/2" plywood for the decking, too. I don't think it had any laminations of fiberglass, either. When I reinstalled, I used 1/2" also, but I glassed both sides (a layer or two of CSM on the bottom; a couple of layers of CSM on the top plus some 6 oz. woven cloth on top). It is super solid.

I agree with the comments about the rotten stringer wood needing to come out. Especially if you plan to sell the boat. Git Rot will not restore the stringers and it won't make the boat safe.
 
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