Regulator Rectifier

GA_Boater

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Welcome aboard.

A rectifier converts AC voltage from the stator, an alternator sorta, to DC voltage, The rectified DC voltage can be about 16 volts, some times more. A regulator limits the DC voltage to about 14 volts, which is easier on the battery.

Hope that helps. Are you having a battery charging problem?
 

jeff francis

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Thank you!! I am having problems with my motor bogging down when I take off. So I was looking at the motor and notice that a red wire was broke leading to the rectifier but haven't had any charging problems that I noticed
 

emdsapmgr

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The red wire of the rectifier should go to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Probably is not charging if it's disconnected. Your stator makes it's own power to run the engine, so the only time your battery is used is when starting. Plus when running the radio, lights, bilge pump, ets. (Also when running the power trim, if so equipped.) So, a well-charged battery will actually last a long time without charging if you are just running the engine only.
 

jeff francis

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wires from part 64 go to part number 44 that is covered by part number 51 so i guess I just need to buy a new rectifier and run accodingly
convert
wi
 

Vic.S

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wires from part 64 go to part number 44 that is covered by part number 51 so i guess I just need to buy a new rectifier and run accodingly

Yes that's right The red wire is the DC+ output from the rectifier. The two yellow wires are the AC input. The case of the OEM round rectifier is the DC negative.
Some after market replacements may have a black wire which is the DC negative and must be grounded.

If you run for prolonged periods You may like to consider a regulated rectifier ( eg CDI part 193-3408) which will avoid any risk of overcharging the battery.
For further details see http://www.cdielectronics.com/product/rectifiers-regulators/johnson-evinrude-regulated-rectifer-193-3408-replaces-580795-581603-582307-582399-583408-18-5708-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200/

When you have fitted your new rectifier check that is working by monitoring the battery volts. A fully charged battery should be about 12.7 volts. When you crank the engine the volts will fall but if the charging is good should quickly recover and increase, as the battery charges, to 14.4 volts in the case of the regulated rectifier or to a higher value if it is unregulated.

Keeping your battery properly charged will help towards a long life for it
 

jeff francis

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Yes that's right The red wire is the DC+ output from the rectifier. The two yellow wires are the AC input. The case of the OEM round rectifier is the DC negative.
Some after market replacements may have a black wire which is the DC negative and must be grounded.

If you run for prolonged periods You may like to consider a regulated rectifier ( eg CDI part 193-3408) which will avoid any risk of overcharging the battery.
For further details see http://www.cdielectronics.com/product/rectifiers-regulators/johnson-evinrude-regulated-rectifer-193-3408-replaces-580795-581603-582307-582399-583408-18-5708-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200-9-17200/

When you have fitted your new rectifier check that is working by monitoring the battery volts. A fully charged battery should be about 12.7 volts. When you crank the engine the volts will fall but if the charging is good should quickly recover and increase, as the battery charges, to 14.4 volts in the case of the regulated rectifier or to a higher value if it is unregulated.

Keeping your battery properly charged will help towards a long life for it
Thank you!! Yea I was looking at the CDI part and also the Sierra part which is half the price but I,m going to get one of them and install it next week.

Jeff
 

GA_Boater

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If the wire is broken were it enters the rectifier - A new part is needed. If the wire is long enough to crimp a splice to rejoin the wire, you might be able to salvage the rectifier.
 

jeff francis

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If the wire is broken were it enters the rectifier - A new part is needed. If the wire is long enough to crimp a splice to rejoin the wire, you might be able to salvage the rectifier.

yes it is broke at the rectifier unfortunately
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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jeff, those rectifiers are used on a lot of Johnson and Evinrude OB engines, so there are not hard to find. And they really shouldn't be very expensive either. When installing the new one, any of the yellow wires can go any place with the other yellow wires. It doesn't matter. Also make certain you have a good clean shiny metal ground lug and connection back to the battery from the engine as well. Easy Peasy!
 

jeff francis

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Thanks everyone!! Now for the next question. I had my carbs rebuilt but more times than not when I go to get on plane my wants to bog down and sometimes shut down other times I have to jockey the throttle back and forth to get on plane. It has a new lower fuel pump but I'm thinking about putting a new upper pump on it. I bought this boat to refurbish and keep from paying out the a#$ for another boat. What ya think

Jeff
 

gm280

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Thanks everyone!! Now for the next question. I had my carbs rebuilt but more times than not when I go to get on plane my wants to bog down and sometimes shut down other times I have to jockey the throttle back and forth to get on plane. It has a new lower fuel pump but I'm thinking about putting a new upper pump on it. I bought this boat to refurbish and keep from paying out the a#$ for another boat. What ya think

Jeff

If your boat is bogging down from lack of fuel while trying to plane, then you shouldn't have any top end either. You can test the fuel pump, or pumps as it sounds, with a fuel pressure gauge. When was the last time you checked compression on it? Might be a good idea to do that and see what it is. JMHO!
 

racerone

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Fuel issues are easy to test..----Have an assistant operate the manual pump when getting on plane.----If that makes no difference then other trouble shooting needs to be done.----Have you looked at compression testing on this 40 year old crossflow motor ?
 

jeff francis

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Feb 27, 2016
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compression is good across the board. when on plane it runs great. I'll have to check the priome on the bulb next time I;m out

Jeff
 

emdsapmgr

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Is the fuel supply hose a 3/8" hose? Not unusual for the fuel primer to go bad in the hose. (sometimes the ball valves go bad, and won't flow fuel.) Make sure the primer bulb arrow is pointing an a generally "upward" orientation. Some old bulbs won't work correctly if the arrow on the bulb is oriented downhill in the splashwell at the back of the boat.
 

jeff francis

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Feb 27, 2016
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Is the fuel supply hose a 3/8" hose? Not unusual for the fuel primer to go bad in the hose. (sometimes the ball valves go bad, and won't flow fuel.) Make sure the primer bulb arrow is pointing an a generally "upward" orientation. Some old bulbs won't work correctly if the arrow on the bulb is oriented downhill in the splashwell at the back of the boat.
yea everything is new but I may change it all out again, it's my wife money!! lol
 

grid

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Oct 29, 2002
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Another thing you may want to check is "link & synch." Loosen the connecting rod between the two carbs. Make sure the timing advance cam isn't touching the carb roller.Make sure both throttle plates are snapped tightly shut, then tighten the connection between the two. Adjust your timing advance arm so the mark on the cam aligns with the roller, but you can still easily spin the roller.. Without starting the engine, shift into FORWARD and make sure the timing advance arm is movig forward AND advancing the carb linkage.. If it still bogs, 10:1 there's a piece of trash floating in one of the bowls.
 
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F_R

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I think grid is onto something. But before you go adjusting things, make sure the timer plate advance is not gummy and sticky. If it is sticky, its movement will lag behind and the carb throttles will open before timing has advanced. When that happens, it will fall on its face and might even stall. It will seem for all the world to be like starving for gas, but it isn't.
 
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