Johnson Evinrude 2 stroke starting problem

[ilya980]

Hi everyone.

I am asking for your help. I have 1994 2 stroke 40 HP Johnson/Evinrude outboard (electric trim and tilt), which does not start. Several months ago I gave it to a mechanic to fix, he replaced the CDI box and the engine was starting fine for about a month. The boat was on a mooring during the summer and another mechanic came over and rebuilt both carburators. He also said that the primer solenoid is leaking and created a "bypass". The boat was starting ok for about 2 weeks, after that it was starting in ether for about a month, and after that it would not start at all. The starter spins, there is a spark, but it feels like engine is not getting fuel.

First of all, I would like to replace the primer solenoid, but I don't understand how it should be connected. I also would like to "undo" the bypass. I am not a mechanic and don't know much about boat engines. My understanding is that the primer solenoid is a cylinder with a red plastic valve at the top, right? It has 2 wires, one black (ground?) and another purple with white stripe. It also has 2 holes at the bottom, which should be connected to fuel lines. Where should these lines be connected to? Could you, please, help me figure out how to connect this solenoid? How do I attach the fuel lines to it? (it does not have any fuel line connections, the holes are flush with the bottom of the solenoid).

Also, how could I test why the engine is not starting?

Thanks a lot.

 

[Bosunsmate]

First thing to do you have already done which is to dump those mechanics.
You will always get a hard start with the solenoid not working and itl stress engine parts during that time.
Have you got the replacement solenoid there?
Yes one black wire to a clean ground, purple wire activates it.
Outlets are probably to the nozzle inlet at the top of each carb

 

[racerone]

The wee plastic nipples break of all the time.------Much cheaper just to find a new cap or even a used one.---Should not be hard to repair at all !!----The cover with the broken nipples is listed at $10.00 or so .-----Easy fix as it is held on with just 4 screws.

 

[ilya980]

Thanks a lot for replies. I took the solenoid off. The connectors are not broken. Electrical wiring are as you said, and there are 3 fuel lines, one thicker (intake?) which is blocked by a metal nut, and other 2 are thinner connected to top parts of carburetors. Here are my questions.
1) My guess is that the mechanic cut the fuel intake line to the solenoid and blocked both ends with metal nuts. So, should the intake line of the solenoid be connected to the line you see on the 3-rd photo also blocked by a metal nut (short straight hose going to the right towards the starter)?
2) The mechanic said that he made a "bypass". Presumably, he meant something more than just cutting and blocking the solenoid intake. Where is that bypass? Do you see it on the pictures? I would like to "undo" that.There are 2 hoses connected to the bottom front part of each carb. You see one such hose on the 3-rd photo, it is just above the blocked line I mentioned. What is it? Is it a bypass, or is it a main fuel supply to the carb? There is another line going to the bottom carb not seen on this photo.
3) The solenoid looks ok. How do I bench test it? I read somewhere that it should be 5 Ohms or so. Can I connect the solenoid to 12 volts car charger and push some gasoline with a syringe? Presumably, I should get no fuel out when the solenoid is not energized, and should get fuel squirting out of smaller valves when it is connected to 12 volts. Is that the right way to test it?
4) The small hose connecting solenoid to the top of the bottom carb is very difficult to put on. How can I put it back onto the carb without taking air filter, VRO, and the top carb away? Is there a trick? Some special pliers?

Thanks a lot.

 

[jakedaawg]

There wouldn't be anything to sensibly bypass to. He probably just plugged up the "in" line. Not sure what he possibly could have been thinking.

Those solenoids seldom go bad. it is usually just the cap that goes bad. Replace the cap and gasket. Hook the fuel lines up. Run engine in tank or on muffs. Bring engine up to normal temp. Using fast idle lever run engine at ~2k RPM's, push in on key, engine should drop to ~1k RPM's. If this happens its working properly.

The resistance 5.5 ohms + or - 1.5 ohms.

 

[racerone]

The black screw on cap is the way it is from the factory.----It caps off a " service port " used to inject fogging oil.------------------One larger hose feeds the electric primer valve and 2 smaller hoses feed fuel straight into the carburetor throats when key is pushed in.-----A very simple device and not sure why anyone would want to " bypass it " -----I would find another repair shop.

 

[ilya980]

Thanks a lot. I ordered a sierra valve service kit from west marine for 14.99. Hope it will fix the solenoid problem.

 

[ilya980]

No Title

While I am waiting for some parts to arrive, I discovered an oil leak out of the prop shaft. Please look at the photo. It is black oil. It dripped quite a bit on the ground before I noticed it. Do you know where is it coming from? How do I fix this? Thanks.

 

[Rick.]

The oil is probably nothing to worry about. It is typically just unburned oil that drains down. You should always check for water in the gear case as part of your getting it ready for winter program. Best of luck. Rick.

 

[Bosunsmate]

2) The mechanic said that he made a "bypass". Presumably, he meant something more than just cutting and blocking the solenoid intake. Where is that bypass? Do you see it on the pictures? I would like to "undo" that.There are 2 hoses connected to the bottom front part of each carb. You see one such hose on the 3-rd photo, it is just above the blocked line I mentioned. What is it? Is it a bypass, or is it a main fuel supply to the carb? There is another line going to the bottom carb not seen on this photo.

Thanks a lot.

its the main fuel supply to the carb

 

[ilya980]

Today I replaced the solenoid gasket and cap and put new hoses. The problem is solved! The engine starts and runs. Thank you so much for help!

I still have a question about tuning this engine. It does not run quite right. It was always easy to start the next day after I used the boat for a long time, harder to start in a few days, and very difficult to start after 2-3 weeks of not using the boat. Today when I tried to start it (I have not used it for 3 months) at first it would start and then stall right away. After 20-30 tries it would start, increase rpm to the throttle position, then rapidly drop rpm and stall (all in 3-4 sec) . If the throttle is wide open it would go to 5000 rpm or so, and then quickly drop rpms and stall, if the throttle is barely open or idle it would run for 2-3 secs on low rpm and then stall. After another 20-30 tries and another 10 min of struggle the engine started in half open throttle position, changed rpms up and down on its own for half a minute, and then ran stably with fixed rpms for about 5 min. After that the engine "wakes up", rapidly increases rpms, and then runs normal, as it should, without stalling, even on idle.

Do you know what is wrong? Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Sounds like you risk damaging an expensive starter.--Have you looked into adjusting the low speed mixture screws.-Also review the starting procedure from the owners manual.

 

[ondarvr]

Also how exactly are you starting it, you may need to push the key in a few times to keep it running when you first start it. Do not rev the motor to high RPM's if it's not in gear and in the water.

 

[ilya980]

Thanks for mentioning the starter. I agree, it is a bad idea to crank it too many times. I don't have the operator's manual. (I have the service manual). Where can I get the operator's manual? What is the proper cold start procedure? I read some people suggest to start right away, some suggest pushing the key in in run position and waiting for 10 seconds.

 

[ondarvr]

Every old carbed motor has its own method of starting that it likes best, you just need to get it know what it wants.

this will be a good method to try.

Pump the bulb,
Turn the key to the on position.
Push it in and count to 8 or so.
Turn key to start the motor

You might need to do that more than once.

When it starts you may need to adjust the throttle to keep the RPM's down, plus you may need to push the key in a couple of times to keep it running.

 

[racerone]

Not sure where this idea of pushing the key in and waiting for 8 seconds comes from !---------Key is to be pushed in while cranking it over.

 

[ondarvr]

Not sure where this idea of pushing the key in and waiting for 8 seconds comes from !---------Key is to be pushed in while cranking it over.

It's one of those arguable points, Holding it down allows for fuel to flow into the intake prior to cranking, many people notice that some motors appear to start much easier and quicker if the button is held down first. The motor will start either way, so it's really a non issue, just do what you feel comfortable with.

 

[racerone]

The electric primer is a valve and NOT a pump.-----Nothing will flow from that valve if there is no pressure to this valve.---The pressure comes from the fuel pump when the engine is cranking.

 

[ondarvr]

I didn't say it was pumping anything.

There is pressure in the fuel line when you pump the bulb, this pressure forces fuel into the intake when it's pushed in prior to cranking. Having the fuel already in the intake can reduce the revolutions needed for it to fire. This may only allow it to start a second or so sooner, but it does help on some motors. This subject has been discussed at length, but this was prior to you joining the forum, the general consensus was if you don't believe in it, don't do it, if you find it works for your motor, great.

 

[ilya980]

Thanks for this idea. I will give it a try. Should I keep the trottle on idle, or should I give some gas (how much) when I try to start? Also, does anyone have the owners manual for this 1994 johnson 2 stroke outboard E40TTLERE? What does it say for the cold start procedure? Thanks.

Why this engine is easy to start after a long use (even next day, when the engine is cold), but very difficult to start after 2 weeks of non use?