Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I just want to be able to look into the hull every once in awhile...maybe throw the wet dry vac hose down there if I have to since keeping bilge water out of the front is going to be more difficult with the new drainage holes. I think the round inspection ports will work fine.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I would agree, if that is all you are looking for.
Have a great day
Bob

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Today at work all I could think about was the boat and before today I had convinced myself I could pop the cap after the transom stringers and deck were done, but the truth is the cap needs to come off now.

So this is what I did when I got home.

JerryLee ready to go!

Remove 1 of the 3 trim pieces.

Rub rail and screws. If this had rivets I might not ever have done it.

I can see the light!

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Getting closer

Nasty ant infestation

I have no idea where to find this stripping.

Getting nervous

Much heavier than we thought.

This really hurt my back!

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

This maybe the last time I see my boat as one piece

There she is, next to the caR50.

Gas anyone? The HONDa needs some.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Wow man. Great work so far.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Well, that's what I call getting it done.
That didn't seem to take you very long.
You will find some of the areas easier to get to now.
Good Job.
Bob

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I have several things I need to ask questions about the first being lumber and the second glass/resin. I will leave this post to lumber. Please respond and comment on any ideas that might cause some problems.

I have found 1x6 redwood lumber that matches my outer stringers perfectly. Is redwood rot resistant? I might not be able to afford the redwood and have also found some Douglas fir as a standby.

Bulkheads will be 3/4 exterior grade plywood

Cross beams will be 1x6 redwood or fir.

For the center stringer I have thought about using dimensional, but think I am going to go with a composite of exterior grade plywood...two 3/4" pieces constructed together to get my 15' some odd length. I want the center stringer to be about 1/2" wider than stock hence the two 3/4" pieces together.

For the Transom I am going to use two pieces of 3/4" exterior grade plywood PLed together and cut a little wider than stock to accommodate swim platform bracketry.

The Floor is simply going to be 1/2" exterior grade plywood.

Once again please share your comments and advice. I have no idea what I am doing and now is the time to smack me upside the head if I am doing something wrong. Thank you in advance.

Now onto the resin in the next post...

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Onto the glass and resin plan. I am using poly resin as it is more cost effective and I can handle fumes better than a rash. I am aware of the required prep that poly needs and its health requirements, but am not 100% sure on what kind of filters I need for my mask. I have a 3m nose/mouth mask with organic vapor filters that also have a debris filter on the outside. I will be working in a partially ventilated garage.

Here is my plan for glassing the boat.

All wood gets several coats of thinned resin before being glassed into the boat.

Stringers and bulkheads -bedded with PL, tabbed with csm, one layer of csm, one layer of 1708

Transom -bedded with PL, Tabbed with 1708 and 2 layers of CSM

Deck - maybe CSM where deck meets stringers? Filled with peanut butter around the edges, tabbed with csm, one cover of csm, one cover of 7 1/2 oz E.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Hey system-f
Here's my two cents worth.
Almost everyone here is using 3/4" PT or exterior grade ply for stringers, transom, and deck.
My boats original stringers and bulkheads were only 1/2" ply.
I plan to go back with all 3/4" ply.
As for the glass, I think I would tab in the transom with CSM and then two layers of 1708. Or whatever will give you the correct thickness. My Mercruiser states 2" thickness for the transom.
I wouldn't put to many coats of resin only on the wood. You just want to seal it. Resin by itself is not very strong.
I would also go more then one layer on the stringers. Stringers are the longitudinal strength of the boat.
Thanks all I got to say about that.
Have a great day.
Bob

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

For the stringers I planned on 1 layer of csm and 1 layer of 1708. I'm not sure if that is enough?

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Well, it's just my opinion, but I would go heavier on the stringers. I would go with one layer CSM and then a min of two layers of 1708.
That's my opinion.:redface:
I'm sure that someone with more experience will also respond.
Bob

 

[Knightgang]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Well, it's just my opinion, but I would go heavier on the stringers. I would go with one layer CSM and then a min of two layers of 1708.
That's my opinion.:redface:
I'm sure that someone with more experience will also respond.
Bob

You will be surprised at just how strong the fiberglass can be when properly applied. You lay doen the CSM, then a ayer of 1708 to fully encase the stringer, then you have 50+ oz of resined and hardened fiberglass standing up to support the deck. If you want more than that, then add another layer of 10 or 12 oz cloth, but I do no think you need the expense of two full layers of 1708... JMO

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Today I found something that made me feel really good that I am getting this far into my project. It looks like the fiberglass on the main stringer isn't even contacting the wood in most spots and that the wood is rotting away.

Didn't get much done tonight, only 3 pictures.

Hello Mr. Gastank

Cut out the upper front deck.

Finally got the very front deck removed.

I also installed some ratchet straps around the hull to keep it from bowing out.

 

[92excel]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Looking like you are on the right track..

3/4 for the deck (not a floor.. boats dont have floors) is over kill and just extra wieght. 1/2 inch is fine because you want to put a layer of csm on the underside and at least 10 ozs csm and cloth on top side which makes it plenty strong.

I agree you should go with two layups of biax on your stringers and make sure you run the biax stitching ran parallel to stringers. make sure you cap the stringers as biax will not make the turn over the top of the stingers.

Good luck

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I agree you should go with two layups of biax on your stringers and make sure you run the biax stitching ran parallel to stringers. make sure you cap the stringers as biax will not make the turn over the top of the stingers.

SO what you are saying is two layers of biax tape, one on each side with csm as the cap? It almost sounds as though I would be better off with coating the stringers with resin, csm, then thick biax tape on each side, then a full covering with some lighter cloth. The manufacture has one layer of what looks like some thicker cloth and in most spots it doesn't even contact the stringer. Whatever I do will be built better than stock.

As for the deck I am going to give the bottom side several coats of resin, but am only going to tab with csm, an entire csm covering and a medium cloth covering on the top side.

 

[92excel]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Stringers..

What i did.. i got the stringer in place then help them there with csm tabbing strips of maybe 6 inches every few feet. let that cure.. now they arent going anywhere.

once cure u sed PL to bed them. the step above makes it easy to really squeeze the PL into the gab without worrying about shifting the stringer any. Fill every little nook under the stringer and round out the pl on both side of the stringer to lessen the hull stringer angle.

Once the PL is set up make sure its set up because it drys outside in.. the inside could still be soft.. once it is fully set up then you biax each side stopping at the top of the stringer and not wrap over. I suggest 2 layups of biax increasing over lap onto the hull with the second.. sure you can do one.. but y not do two.

once thats all cured you want to cap the stringers with csm. i did three layers. increasing the overlap with each layer.. csm will round over a stringer and lay with no airbubbles and biax will not. You can do full wraps instead of just capping if you choose..

hope that clears things up.

 

[92excel]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

didnt mean to ignore the deck question.. you dont want to go with just resin for the underside as it will crack and allow any water under there to eat into the deck from below.. you want to atleast use one layer of csm.. this advise is if you are using poly as apposed to epoxy.. i dont know much about epoxy.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

That makes sense on the understide of the deck...guess I will do one layer of CSM down there.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

OH my this is hard work. Rot is starting in places, but for the most part everything has super solid and a pain to get out. It looks like either Glastron or the last person that did this boat went nuts an threw-up CSM and resin all over the stringers. I have the entire deck out and one of the little stringers mostly intact. I am now starting on the port middle stringer and it is giving me a hard time. This hull is going to require a LOT of cleanup.