-6' itis aluminum v hull

coolbri70

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my 18' runabout is too big for some of the places I want to boat. I just purchased this
12' aluminum v, I want to remove the paint, all the wood, there are rivets in the back seat that have come loose and a crack in the top of the transom that needs repaired better. I will need to beef up the transom for my 5 1/2 hp wizard, looking for suggestions. I was trying to post pics but it won't work so I linked this video that I made from the pics, note a penny glued over a hole on the inside of the transom:facepalm:
 

BonairII

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

What is the wood contraption in the bow?
 

GA_Boater

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

What is the wood contraption in the bow?

A quasi-Adirondack chair back. I wanna know what the wood pole is sticking up in the transom.

A neat little one, Cool. Hope the pennies go bye-bye. Worse than pressure treated wood.
 

Bondo

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

my 18' runabout is too big for some of the places I want to boat. I just purchased this 12' aluminum v,
I want to remove the paint, all the wood, there are rivets in the back seat that have come loose and a crack in the top of the transom that needs repaired better. I will need to beef up the transom for my 5 1/2 hp wizard, looking for suggestions. I was trying to post pics but it won't work so I linked this video that I made from the pics, note a penny glued over a hole on the inside of the transom:facepalm:

Nope,... Don't do That,... Sand it Smooth, 'n repaint it...

Strippin' it is Alota work, for Nothin'...
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

the po used the pole to hang a lantern, yes the penny and pressure treated transom are coming off:) I think the transom cracked because he used a shorter board that did not go past the corner braces, the original did I can see marks from it. still not sure what i'm doing with the transom but I think it will involve plywood, aluminum, bolts, glue, paint, rivets, and I have been reading of glovit I think:confused: also thinking of turning the stern into a splashwell maybe 12" or so, any advise would help should I just fiberglass it:faint2:
 

GA_Boater

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

I don't think you need a splashwell on her Cool. Most small fishing boats don't have them. Even a small S/W takes away interior room. If you can figure out the original transom wood, try to duplicate it.

I bet the pennies were used to patch holes from bolting a motor on the back. Most likely a patchwork effort to make up for a failing transom. Are the corner caps welded or bolted/riveted on? If you could get a full width transom in there the strength will be increased.

I missed the paint stripping question earlier. What Bond-o said. Sand, etch prime and shoot color. She's gonna get beat up carrying in the bed of a truck any way. Save yourself some time. That's what I would do.
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

he threw the lamp post and backrest he made for his wife in the deal, I was thinking of putting carpeted bunks in the bed, and engineering a slide out ramp of sorts, with rollers on it and winch to pull it in. also think it needs a full transom, I've read my 5.5 wizard is really a 6 oliver and there is the chance I might stick my 15 kicker on it, just to see how it does:D
 

GA_Boater

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

5.5 Wizard :fish2: 15 kicker :bolt:
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

also wonder how thick would the transom need be for the 15 hp? trying to keep the weight down back there but need it strong enough. will I need to add stringers to transfer thrust to the hull? I don't want it crinkling up back there when I pour the coals to it:facepalm: also how much foam to float a 12' boat with a 15hp evinrude? where can I put it? in the seats? I was thinking under the splashwell that i'm not sure if I should do.
 

64osby

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

The transom on my Lone Star did not come out from the top, it went towards the bow and down after bending some brackets. You don't really need a 1 1/2" thick transom for a 5.5 motor. I once made a transom from 2 sheets of 1/2" plastic, it worked great. My Lone Star had and has a new 1 1/4" thick transom made from a 2 x 10 piece of Douglas fir, the max hp on the boat is 18 hp. Most will say to use plywood and not solid wood.

My transom replacement is spread out over many posts starts on 7, 26 and then to post 53 of the Tinny listed in my signature. I added a little extra support to it. You can also see my Gluvit and paint action starting at #64.

Foam should be in your seats, I say don't touch it.

Nice little Tinny and trellis. The lantern hanger is cool. Some of the locals use something like it for night time trout fishing (planted) on the local pond.
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

I think I will go with 3/4 ply inside and 1/2 ply out, then a few thick coats of oil base. I got the old transom out, treated deck planks, and removed the pennies:facepalm: I discovered a nest of black ants. I took pics but can't upload any for the last few days, not sure why.
 

GA_Boater

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

That oughta work, Cool. If 64 used plastic, why not? Not like you're hangin' 200 horses off the back. Put some protection on the wood before you stick it on and in any holes for screws/bolts. And use plenty of 3M 5200 on the bolts too.

After you get the transom done, hang the motor and see how solid it is. If it does move I think you're go to go. It it moves then think about any added braces.
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

I forgot to mention the galvanized bolts, for the transom, I think it was painted with house paint and I was picking at it and it was flaking off. there is clear caulk along the bottom at the riveted seam to the transom, so I can assume it leaked, I will try to clean it out and use marine sealer or glovit? are galvanized bolts ok or do I need stainless steel?
 

GA_Boater

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Stainless is best. Even galnvanized will rust after a while and the rust leads to leaks

On the seam, Gluvit is probably best, but 5200 would work. As long as it gets to set up before you float her. If the whole boat needs leak-proofing just use Gluvit. The is another seam sealer like Gluvit and it's a little cheaper. I think it's called Coat-it. Let me check that.

EDIT - Yeah Coat-it and a lot of places carry it. Almost half the cost. and Amazon has it. http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/epoxy_resins/coat_it_epoxy_sealer_with_kevlar/30
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

I,m working on my transom, holding different wood up to it sizing things up, now I tried the wizard on my Larson, it has a 2" transom and it barely fit, not really :facepalm: so I think I want it thinner and lighter, I cut a transom 3/4" ply, then a pad for the outside from 1/2" ply and that with the aluminum transom sandwiched between, measures 1 1/2" does this sound ok:confused: with the wood clamped in place it feels very solid:noidea:
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

I think I will be ok with the transom:confused:, also I will be painting the bottom and splashrail dark green like the lid on the wizard and the sides and transom I might strip and polish, if not then paint white. the middle seat I was told had a hole cut for storage, the back is full of Styrofoam, I think the middle once had it but was removed for storage, I think I should try to stuff it with foam again:confused:
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

ok I been scrubbing the bottom and have decided against polish, this is getting sanded and painted, after I replace some rivets in the back seat:rolleyes: it will be white the keel, caprail, corners and splash rail, will be hunter green
 

coolbri70

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Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

Re: -6 footitis aluminum and rivets

 
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