oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

[oops!]

a lot of people keep asking me for this in pm......so here it is.

this is a structural peanut butter i use for holes in hulls...and other areas that a super strong structural filler is needed.

you can use this for bedding if you wish.....its a little strong for that....so you might add some glass bubbles to the mix.

ok.....here is the peanut butter recepie.

what you are trying to do ....is get a 75 percent filler to 25% resin ratio.....this stuff is thick.

pour off some resin....and catylize it at 2 %
IMPORTANT you always catylize the resin first...because you will never get a good resin to cat mix after the filler is added.

25% resin
50% milled fibres
25% 1/4 inch short strand fibreglass.

add the short strand fibres first.....mix it well till each fibre is wet/ or saturated
now add milled fibres.....the powder kind......this is actually ground up fibreglass...
and mix that till its all wet. there should be no dry powder in it....it will be really thick...your arm will get sore....but keep mixing....

remember....the resin is hot.....so mix fast...you will only have about 5 mins mixing time and 10 mins working time...so mix small batches till you are comfortable with the amount you are working with.


gellcoat paste
milled fibres only (powdered)

you are looking for about a 40% fiber to 60 percent gellcoat ratio.

catylize the gellcoat at 2%
add the milled fibres till you have a thinner than tooth paste consistency...mix till there is no dry powder in the paste


there ya go guys....

cheers
oops

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

a lot of people keep asking me for this in pm......so here it is.

this is a structural peanut butter i use for holes in hulls...and other areas that a super strong structural filler is needed.

you can use this for bedding if you wish.....its a little strong for that....so you might add some glass bubbles to the mix.

ok.....here is the peanut butter recepie.

what you are trying to do ....is get a 75 percent filler to 25% resin ratio.....this stuff is thick.

pour off some resin....and catylize it at 2 %
IMPORTANT you always catylize the resin first...because you will never get a good resin to cat mix after the filler is added.

25% resin
50% milled fibres
25% 1/4 inch short strand fibreglass.

add the short strand fibres first.....mix it well till each fibre is wet/ or saturated
now add milled fibres.....the powder kind......this is actually ground up fibreglass...
and mix that till its all wet. there should be no dry powder in it....it will be really thick...your arm will get sore....but keep mixing....

remember....the resin is hot.....so mix fast...you will only have about 5 mins mixing time and 10 mins working time...so mix small batches till you are comfortable with the amount you are working with.


gellcoat paste
milled fibres only (powdered)

you are looking for about a 40% fiber to 60 percent gellcoat ratio.

catylize the gellcoat at 2%
add the milled fibres till you have a thinner than tooth paste consistency...mix till there is no dry powder in the paste


there ya go guys....

cheers
oops

I would have subjugate this mix .. It depends on the application.

Can I get a percent on the mixes I do for other patents ..

NO .. you dont mix resins and MEKP then add the fillers ( Unless its epoxy ). Sorry oops .. that is the difference of epoxy and poly/vinyl resin.

Yes Epoxy you mix the resin together then add your filler .. not so with poly or vinylester resins.

PM me if you like..

YD.

 

[Robj]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

I would have subjugate this mix .. It depends on the application.

Can I get a percent on the mixes I do for other patents ..

NO .. you dont mix resins and MEKP then add the fillers ( Unless its epoxy ). Sorry oops .. that is the difference of epoxy and poly/vinyl resin.

Yes Epoxy you mix the resin together then add your filler .. not so with poly or vinylester resins.

PM me if you like..

YD.

I always catalyze the resin first before adding the filler to ensure the resin is properly mixed with catalyst. If there is a reason not to do it that way I would like to know why.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

the reason you catylize the resins first...is because you want to cayylize the resin....not the filler....

if you cat after the filler is in......you will cannot get an even mix.....some spots will catylize and others wont....

i just dare ya to try it with catylizing the resin first....it wont work.

this batch of mix has been hit with sledge hammers by 20 year olds and they didnt even crack it.......toughest stuff i have seen..

try it doc.......but remember...this is for structural only.....its too strong for minor filleting

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

I catalyzed first also, and it worked great. I used cabosil too.

 

[Sleeper-6]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

I've been using a slightly different take in the PB recipe for filleting. It's approximately 50% catalyzed resin and 50% chopped 1/4" fibers, no other thickener or fillers. Once mixed it forms a slightly dry hairy mess that I roughly place into the corners, either by hand (with gloves) or with the mixing stick. Next I lay my CSM or 1708 over it and wet it out. Then using use my roller I form it into a nice smooth fillet with no air bubbles. I'm not exactly sure what to call it, but I can say it's really strong once cured. You have to work fast to roll and form the entire fillet without any air bubbles before the resin sets up, but once you get used to it, it works out really well.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

I catalyzed first also, and it worked great. I used cabosil too.

yes.....cook comp instructs to mix the mekp first..... frisco....next time you are doing a thru hull whack or major outer transom damage...try this mix....its great

due to the nature of the mix....with milled fibres at 50 %....the mix ix stronger than hull material sprayed out of a chopper gun that forms the hull of a boat. the only short coming....is the short strands are 1/4 inch instead of the 3 inch strands from a chopper gun. however the resin to fiberglass ratio in the peanut butter mix is far superior to that of a chopper gun.
if there was a way i could get the three inch individual strands into this mix (instead of the 1/4 inch) ....it would be perfect for an entire hull. lighter, stronger than a standard chopped glass hull.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

I've been using a slightly different take in the PB recipe for filleting. It's approximately 50% catalyzed resin and 50% chopped 1/4" fibers, no other thickener or fillers. Once mixed it forms a slightly dry hairy mess that I roughly place into the corners, either by hand (with gloves) or with the mixing stick. Next I lay my CSM or 1708 over it and wet it out. Then using use my roller I form it into a nice smooth fillet with no air bubbles. I'm not exactly sure what to call it, but I can say it's really strong once cured. You have to work fast to roll and form the entire fillet without any air bubbles before the resin sets up, but once you get used to it, it works out really well.

yuppers......a 50/50 mix is not far off the factory chopped glass spray......i also like working with the stuff wet, when you roll it you can mold it to any shape you need.
the only thing is heat on cure....you cant lay the stuff too thick at 50/50 because the heat on cure will make it brittle.

have you ever tryed to break some that is left over in the pot and cured?......lol its a real task to break it

 

[Rellik546]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

if you guys wanna save your arms, buy a 1 or 5 gallon paint mixer. they are like 5-6 bux at home depot, let your drill do all the work i personally added all my stuff then catalyst. i was also using a power mixer so i think it mixed well. either way, before or after...which ever is the correct way. the 6 dollar mixer, will mix better than ur hand, faster, giving you more work time ...and that it always good.

just a tip, right after u use the mixer, use your finger to clean off the paddles so it doesnt harden on the mixer blades.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

acutalluy i use an egg beater in a drill.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

if you cat after the filler is in......you will cannot get an even mix.....some spots will catylize and others wont....

i just dare ya to try it with catylizing the resin first....it wont work.

try it doc.......

It will work .. Not only have I tried the mix then catting .. it is the ONLY way I have EVER done it.
I have Never had a problem with full cure.
I also do not use mill fibers.. I use chopped strand mat ( length depending on the application ).

Paddle mixing will give you less working time ( generates friction/heat ).
Catting resin prior to adding fillers will give you less working time..
Working with anything more then 1/4" short strand mat will just Clog your mixer with glass ( if your using a mixer ).

If you want to cat your resin before adding fillers/glass thats cool..
If you want to make your putty to the desired consistency .. thats cool too.

Either way WILL work ( been doing it for 20+ years this way never had a problem with UNcured spots in the putty ).

Gel-paste is Cabosil and Gel ( about 50/50 mix ). For small fills that you just want to fill/sand/buff. I dont know why you would use mill fiber with gel ( it will turn the gel a different color ).

YD.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

It will work .. Not only have I tried the mix then catting .. it is the ONLY way I have EVER done it.
I have Never had a problem with full cure.
.

YD.

this is common in boat building...people do things one way because that is the way they have been shown or told to do. will they work?....well there is many ways to skin a cat.

mixing mekp with as little resin as 25% with 75 % filler allready in it is a gaurenteed way to get an un even mix. this stuff is thick.

as far as i can tell....you said you only use chopped fibers.....in a mix that will only get you to about 40 % resin to glass ratio.
when you get down as low as the 25% an even mekp mix after the stuff in it is not very likely.

even mixing gellcoat with pigment....we know that it takes forever to mix the two togeather....(in fact....this is where the color streaks in cultured marble come form...is an unevenly mixed resin/pigment) ....if we transfer that knowlage into mixing a filler......how can the 2% of the 25% mix evenly thru the 75% of the super thick filler. if you arent hanging on to the pot....the stuff is so thick it will start knocking stuff off the counter you are mixing on....as well as hurting your wrist hanging on to the mixing drill lol


this particular recipe was adapted from cook composites cast products division. it is the same ratio used for corian counter tops and cultured marble/granite products.
and it is the manufacturers that insist the MEKP being mixed first on a substance that the intended product is this thick. on thinner mixes...it is not as crutial

btw....the words "try it doc" at the end of the quote was obviously an invitation to try this mix. it is something i know works very well for structural applications...it can save you time and effort.

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

Can I get a percent on the mixes I do for other patents ..


YD.

lol....yrp....just put a phony pat pand behind the mix like i did and we can take people to court....if they settle out of court we dont have to work for a year....lol

ill give you the northern east coast rights to this stuff......lol

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

this is common in boat building...people do things one way because that is the way they have been shown or told to do. will they work?....well there is many ways to skin a cat.

mixing mekp with as little resin as 25% with 75 % filler allready in it is a gaurenteed way to get an un even mix. this stuff is thick.

as far as i can tell....you said you only use chopped fibers.....in a mix that will only get you to about 40 % resin to glass ratio.
when you get down as low as the 25% an even mekp mix after the stuff in it is not very likely.

even mixing gellcoat with pigment....we know that it takes forever to mix the two togeather....(in fact....this is where the color streaks in cultured marble come form...is an unevenly mixed resin/pigment) ....if we transfer that knowlage into mixing a filler......how can the 2% of the 25% mix evenly thru the 75% of the super thick filler. if you arent hanging on to the pot....the stuff is so thick it will start knocking stuff off the counter you are mixing on....as well as hurting your wrist hanging on to the mixing drill lol


this particular recipe was adapted from cook composites cast products division. it is the same ratio used for corian counter tops and cultured marble/granite products.
and it is the manufacturers that insist the MEKP being mixed first on a substance that the intended product is this thick. on thinner mixes...it is not as crutial

btw....the words "try it doc" at the end of the quote was obviously an invitation to try this mix. it is something i know works very well for structural applications...it can save you time and effort.

cheers
oops

Your post completely lost me lol ... Im gonna PM ya .. check your PM please ..

YD.

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

So I'd like to ask why the suggested methods above would be more suited to hull repair versus say, stringer bedding. What disadvantage would using the "oops sooper dooper PB mix" have rather than PL adhesive? Seems the stronger the better to me. Do the stringers need to be bedded in PL for flexibility?

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

when you bed stringers.......you want a little flex......this mix is super strong and very hard.

the difference is in the final product.....when you are going over wakes with your rebuilt boat....a little more flex in the stringer bedding will tend to make the landing softer....when you bed really hard....or use no bedding compound at all......when you come down....it will really be a whack. (basically a really stiff hull)

 

[kahuna123]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

Not down here. We don't use chopper guns to build boats. Ours are hand laid. We also use guns that spray resin and mek at the same time not mixed in a bucket.

I agree with the milled fibers. Much stronger than csm. I use milled fibers with a 3 to 1 expoxy in my speargun tracks but I add graphite for other reasons.

 

[oops!]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

where do you work?.......most mfgrs use chopper guns.....

 

[SouthTexan]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

when you bed stringers.......you want a little flex......this mix is super strong and very hard.

the difference is in the final product.....when you are going over wakes with your rebuilt boat....a little more flex in the stringer bedding will tend to make the landing softer....when you bed really hard....or use no bedding compound at all......when you come down....it will really be a whack. (basically a really stiff hull)

Thanks oops, that makes sense.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: oops sooper dooper structural peanut butter recipe (pat pend)

Not down here. We don't use chopper guns to build boats. Ours are hand laid. We also use guns that spray resin and mek at the same time not mixed in a bucket.

Yes .. the Airless/pumpers are basically the same but you dont have an expensive chopper gun ( Im assuming your not doing big jobs ). Nothing against chop guns as they serve purpose for mass production.. and used properly its all the same as hand layup if not more. You cant chop 1708 or woving ..

when you bed stringers.......you want a little flex......this mix is super strong and very hard.

the difference is in the final product.....when you are going over wakes with your rebuilt boat....a little more flex in the stringer bedding will tend to make the landing softer....when you bed really hard....or use no bedding compound at all......when you come down....it will really be a whack. (basically a really stiff hull)

Depends again .. do you want a NON flex structure ( some claim its better ).

Debate again .. but its up to where and what. Hard non-flex at some points or some flex on other points.

It is really complicated on a boat to boat thing. .. anyone asking for hard/rigid systems or floating stringers is asking alot online. .. its just an application to application thing.

There is NO ONE way this way for all boats. Its all boat to boat and types of boats. We can get close to a medium to help unless its specific and very close its very hard to say .. you have to look/know the over all construction/repair/rebuild ..

Again .. it's different from boat to boat .. repair to repair ..

YD.