21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

mcgyver

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I've had this boat for 2 years and knew that this transom repair was lurking. Campion did not seal adquately the join between the hull and the cap (splashwell) therefore 20 years of water migration into the transom..... I've popped the cap (175+ rivets!) and got a better look at what i was up against. Test holes in the transom looked damp but not wet, pulled the scuppers and soaking wood on both sides.....my suspision confirmed. Port stringer seems very solid and I cut into the weak CSM and looks dry and solid.....the starboard stringer is mush and wet to the bow (it needs to be replaced also) It's amazing to me that the stringers were built with only about 4-5" of CSM up on each side and NO limber holes whatsoever! that will be remedied..... So i've got some grunt work ahead of me. What do i do with the port stringer where it meets the transom, do i need to remove part of it to facilitate getting the new transom in? I'm planning on 2 - 3/4 exterior grade plywood with a "peanut butter" troweled between the layers then encapsulate the whole thing with 1.5 oz CSM and a couple of layers of 1708 Biax on the outside. Is this the best way to do it? thanks pics to follow when i fugure that out!
 

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oops!

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

you are on the right track.

and yes.......campion tried to follow bayliners lead in the 90;s and build them cheap. they have since changed there ways. that motor mount gets me ticked off......that was because they didnt seal the lag bolts on the isolators. this is common.
i live right by campion and work 2 mins from it.......i also buy old stock from them at a discount.....so if you need a part......

cheers
oops
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Thanks Oops...your thread was actually my inspiration that i could do this...and watching jeff bisson's trophy thread. I'm not far from you....Comox, on Van Isle Thanks again. Doug
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

View attachment 81221View attachment 81221View attachment 81220Spent 2.5 hours digging into the transom and stringers. it's easy to see how water penetration gets into these boats...would be so easy to seal them properly when they were first built but I guess that would keep these things going forever and would affect the manufacturers market somewhat...go figure. This is turning into a bit bigger of a job than i had planned...isn't that ALWAYS the case! The 2 outbaord and 1 inboard stringers are damp near the hull but not at all rotten or moldy. The inner starboard stringer is absolutely shot and will be replaced. the transom had some mild signs of beginning rot but mostly was just wet in most areas. This thing will outlast me when i'm done with it.
I found that using my air chisel on the transom saved tons of effort with the hammer and crowbar.

I'll update again when I get the transom cleaned off

Criticism always appreciated
Doug
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Sounds like I'm not the only one getting into these type of projects. I don't under stand the air hammer though? What's it for? Hope you have alot of fun while doing this. The worst part if the sanding. After that it is all fun stuff. Keep posting, with pics, We all love these kinds of threads. Also please post any pointers, or leassons learned. I love infind out other ways to do things. Mine is not always the right way..... or the best. lol
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Thanks Jeff, the air chisel was after I scored the transom with my circular saw to withi 1/4" of the hull then the air chisel just "peeled" away the squares of plywood. i was hammering away with a crowbar and had a "thought". Worked fantastic. just be sure you dont' get closer than 1/4" (have 1/4" of wood between the chisel and the hull) Don't ask me how i found out the hard way! Very minor gelcoat crack to fix........ BTW the wood is all out, boat cleaned and dreading the grinding that will begin next week.......
40 grit flapper wheels the best tool?

Criticism always appreciated
Doug
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Yes I found the following tools in the sanding stage the best to use.

The 40 grit flap wheels from harbour frieght and their cheap grinders. You might have to return the grinder a couple times but you will really wear out a good one doing this type of work. The fiber glass dust is not good for the brushes and windings. I think they are like 15 bucks at harbour freight. Once you losse the corner on the flap wheel it will feel like it is not cutting/grinding anymore. Don't worry it still good. They are like grind wheels. As long as there is some flaps there they will still grind. I only used 2 on my whole project.

The other item I found really nice was a Milwalkie saw all blade. "The Axe" it cuts the fiberglass like butter. They come in 6" or 8" long blades I think. I'd have to check for sure. I only used one for the whole project so far. They don't seam to get dull. But I didn't hit any screws either. But I would use it to skim the grinding area semi flush (raised flanges and pads of wood where the stringer where) before grinding.

Nirtle rubber gloves work the best for fiberglass powder resistance. I would put my $3.5 ebay tyvec suit on then a pair of gloves. Duct tape the seam at the cuff closed, Then put on another pair. This way if you get a tear in the glove you still have on set on making a barier. Just replace the outer glove. I really hate pickies between the fingers.

If you have not bought you mask yet, I would reccomend to anyone a full face mask from 3M or MSA. That way you are fully protected. Eyes, nose, and mouth. I'm at the end of my project and if I do it again I would spend the extra 30-40 bucks to get the full face one. Just make sure you get the tear off's. It will be well spent money. Also you might want to get the pre filter. You know the cloth ones that snap on over the filter intakes. They will help you keep the filters from clogging. And you can blow them out regularly. Better than spending $20 every other day while grinding.

If you are getting the tyvec suits. Get the hooded ones. Nothing like getting fiberglass dust down the back of your neck. Trust me when you start grinding you'll be sitting or kneeling in 1-2" deep of fiberglass dust. There will be a ton of it! I almost forgot, start watching on garbage day for old couch cushons. Grab a couple, they are nice to kneel on. And you can through them away after you done grinding.

Last one. Start looking for a shop vac at yard sales. I don't know if you are down south or not. Not many yard sales up here this time of year. But the fiberglass dust you vaccum up will kill it quickly.

Have fun and be safe!
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Oh yah your last attachments did not come thru. DId you resize them properly. I hate doing it. I wish they would just fix the site where you did not have to do it. Resizing that is.
 

oops!

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

jk ...if you use photo bucket....there is a default that you can use.

mcgyver.....

we just bought an 05 regal 30 footer out of nanamio for 25 hundred......i might have to go get it right away......if i do i would also take the camp explorer out to the island to try to sell..
ill pm you if i have to do the trip.
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Sorry, here's the pics.....

Picture 004.jpgPicture 006.jpgPicture 005.jpg
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Hmmmm...do think I can save this starboard stringer? Scares the hell out of me that I pounded across the Strait of Georgia in 4' seas and out to the westcoast of vancouver island (Nootka Sound) and was in 10' swell with a 2' chop. Just about crapped my pants when i saw that stringerPicture.jpg
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Garboard pic.JPGReady to start to cut out the transom ply and have a question regarding the garboard drain. As it is a potential source of leaks and i would have to drill the ply , put a tube in, epoxy around the tube, and then 5200 the crap out of the outside garboard brass fitting when i install, would it be an idea to avoid the problem with the wood even coming into contact with water in this area by doing what i propose in the pic ie cut the bottom 3" off the ply and have drain water go right to the transom glass? does any of that make sense? the ply WILL be encapsulated in 1.5 oz matt before install. Is there a structural/strength issue here?
Can't wait to start to BUILD!
Doug
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

That is what I did. But instead of cutting flat I took a large butter container and used that to cut a round shape out. Tried to get the ply as close to the bottom as I could. Check the link in my signature. It's in there some where if you are intrested.
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Just waiting for some 50+ weather to do the transom install. i have 2 pieces of 3/4" exterior 6 ply plywood laminated together with a layer of 1.5 oz CSM in between.
1. Should i wrap the edges in csm before installing?
2. When i install do i have this right: wet the plywood with resin/wet the skin with resin and then apply the 1.5 oz mat to the skin and wet out again/ go back and put another liberal amount of resin on the ply and then install?
3. I'll be clamping throught the scupper holes and outboard mount holes and the drain hole + some flat washers and screws through the swimgrid ect.
4. should i leave some of the csm that will be applied to the skin 4" larger and "wrap" the plywood? i'll be filleting and putting a layer of 1708 over the whole transom extending 6" to the hull on the bottom and sides

I just want to go through this thing a 1000 times before i go to do it.....
Thanks
Doug
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Also, should I mix the poly resin with some cabosil to thicked it before applying to the skin and plywood? or will the 1.5 oz mat give me "some" filling/void avoidance qualities?
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

OOPS....I just checked the cap for being flat across the transom and it's not! There is about a 2-3" curve to the transom needed. If i was to install the 2 - 3/4" ply flat when i go to drop the cap back on it wouldn't fit.. how do i deal with this? It looks as if they used 2 - 5/8" and 1 - 1/2" when it was built. I wouldn't think that 5/8" ply would bend THAT much....I'm really confused at this point on how to proceed. This project just keeps getting worse and worse.
 

mcgyver

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Quick pic to give you the ideacurve in transom.JPG
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Just waiting for some 50+ weather to do the transom install. i have 2 pieces of 3/4" exterior 6 ply plywood laminated together with a layer of 1.5 oz CSM in between.
1. Should i wrap the edges in csm before installing?
2. When i install do i have this right: wet the plywood with resin/wet the skin with resin and then apply the 1.5 oz mat to the skin and wet out again/ go back and put another liberal amount of resin on the ply and then install?
3. I'll be clamping throught the scupper holes and outboard mount holes and the drain hole + some flat washers and screws through the swimgrid ect.
4. should i leave some of the csm that will be applied to the skin 4" larger and "wrap" the plywood? i'll be filleting and putting a layer of 1708 over the whole transom extending 6" to the hull on the bottom and sides

I just want to go through this thing a 1000 times before i go to do it.....
Thanks
Doug

Sorry I thought someone else would have responded by now. Been sort of envolved in my own little project (world).

1) Yes you should wrap the edges of the ply before installation. Makes it nice and water tight before you install it. Just rememder that you need to sand it after to get a good bond. So the 1.5oz mat might want to be double that thickness.

2) What I did was I painted the prefitted wood, let it sit, then repainted the wood (the wood sucked up quite a bit, just kept giving it until it was saturated) then applied a layer of 1708 biax to the wood,then repainted the biax. Leave alone and move to hull.

I played with the temps while I was doing it. The outside temps where in the low to mid 50's giving me a very long pot life. When I want to speed things up I brought it in the garage where I have gas heat. If you do not have heat use halogen lamps 250w for mid heat and 500w for high heat. Keep them away from work surface by min of 2 ft.

Mix up a batch of thickened (silica and mole hair glass) and spead on the transom hull with a carpent glue trowel. 1/4" opening in the trowel. Buy cheap, you'll through it out after your are done with it. Then take ply, double check 1708 wet out, no voids, bubble roller if need, and squish into place. Clamp and clean up excess ooze. I used it as a filleting compound around the edge of the board.

3)Yep I used the screw with fender washers. I also drill two hole near the bottom of the ply through the transom to add a couple of screws for clamping. I just pluged the hole with a screw and some 3m 5200 when it was done. Might want to add a few clamps alont the top. Do not over squeeze the glue out.

4) I would break up the one piece in several pieces. Very hard to work with a big piece of cloth. But thats me. I would do the fairing piece then cover the whole ply then anouther fairing piece extend 4" past.

Any more question just ask I'll keep watching for them. I'm no expert but I have been there and done that......
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

Also, should I mix the poly resin with some cabosil to thicked it before applying to the skin and plywood? or will the 1.5 oz mat give me "some" filling/void avoidance qualities?

You do not need to do that. I only did it on the ends where there where minor voids. The thin/reg resin will fill the voids as you apply the cloth. You will be surprised at how much resin you will use doing this. Don't want to wast it. If you do decide to do it, you will want to add chopped glass fiber to it for strength.
 

j_k_bisson

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Oct 6, 2010
Messages
1,082
Re: 21.5' 1990 Campion Fishing machine transom and stringer restore

OOPS....I just checked the cap for being flat across the transom and it's not! There is about a 2-3" curve to the transom needed. If i was to install the 2 - 3/4" ply flat when i go to drop the cap back on it wouldn't fit.. how do i deal with this? It looks as if they used 2 - 5/8" and 1 - 1/2" when it was built. I wouldn't think that 5/8" ply would bend THAT much....I'm really confused at this point on how to proceed. This project just keeps getting worse and worse.

You deal with this the same way my Bayliner is done. You make the transom wood out of 3 pieces. The center portion that the motor is mounted to needs to be set to the stringers. Check out the link in my signature for pics on how mine was done by the factory. You will need to round the wood abit. Also you will need to make a fixture of the curvature of the cap you are trying to match. For two reasons, 1-to use a clamp board when you glue in the wood. and 2-as a guide when you are fitting the ply into the transom. DO NOT TRY TO BEND THE PLY it will not work! The fiberglass will flaten out.
 
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