14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiffetails

14' Welded Aluminum Skiffetails

Now let's look at some open items; the forward end of the spray rails as they meet the stem/snuff nose; the struts under the inner edge of pipe and a little more of the motor well being tacked up.

To keep the same general style of ending the forms at the sheer and spray rails back from the centerline each of the spray rail angles was ended in a long inverted V cut. That form of cut leaves a flat V to fill and by rounding the inner or forward ends of these two plates they sort of go with the orange peel pipe ends above.

Not wanting something protruding at this location on the stem these plates are flat fillers that weld to the stem flat and then fill the angle cutout and weld there. The weld at the angle is faired smooth the welds on the snuff nose are left.

Getting in a little closer, with my still out of focus images, the detail at these ends are a little easiet to see in this image.

The engine well will hold a Honda 8Hp 4stroke gearmotor with a tiller but electric start. [Can't have the Skipper pulling on some silly old cord to fire up!] In order to hug the outboard the leading edge of the well is tapered to make the shape look narrower. This also helps with the seat design which will be curved in that area so the forward corners need to be radiused.

The struts along the sheer are beginning to go in by using a 4x4 all the way across the sheer. We lay a 4by across the sheer equidistant from the bow along each side and using a furniture clamp to lift the sheer clamp/guard deck at the inside pipe, we make sure the slope of the gunwale plate is equal from side to side AND the strut holds the pipe fair at that point.

Looking forward from the port side aft with the well framed in on the right of the picture, you can see the struts tacked in as well as the beginning fit of the forward bulkhead. The main longitudinal framing will be installed butted to this vertical transverse plate and it serves as a framing separator.

Aft the main framing is along the butt lines forward the main framing is along the waterlines. Either method as will be seen, is more than adequate, but they're separated here to make fitting simplified. I didn't model this area of the boat for parts on the PC, these parts will be scribed to fit and cut and tacked as they lay.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Simply breathtaking..Way beyond the scope of my intelligence and skill..

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Framing and Longs

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Framing and Longs

WillyClay,
thank you, I'm glad you're enjoying building this little skiff I hope the rest is worth reading as well.

I don't have much CAD of the framing details because I was going to fit it by hand so drawing wasn't worth the time when I built. To break up the panels and reduce their size in order to increase stiffness, I like longs much better than across; lengthwise structural members are easy in metal boats and transverse members seem like more work for the strength.

The bottom has two 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" angles that are tapered to near points in their forward 8'. These are laid to the hull and tacked on in this photo. These longs roughly follow the diagonals in the forward 1/3 and flatten until they run roughly along the waterlines and butts aft. [If you're a amateur designer, like me, you'll realize that would only be true on planing or semi-planing hull types like this one- regardless of the mode of operation.]

Also visible is a little weld distortion between these angles the reason was the size of welds used was too large and hot for the materials. I was using 0.035" wire and filling the space between the angle leg and the bottom- I should have used 0.030" or 0.025" wire and not tried to make the welds flush.

A first look at the main deck framing, based almost entirely on three main bottom to deck, full height, longs of 0.100" sheet. The longs were so 'flimsy' they each have a strip along their sides to keep them in the buttock planes while they were installed. That made welding down inside a pain in the stern and might have been justification to make these of 0.125"(1/8") or to have had them press braked into an angle. I didn't plan well enough and we just cut them and tacked stiffeners on to hold them in place while framing.

As it was, we added angles to the top edge of the keel long- to make the transverse deck beam intersections wider for welding and these angles also gave a bigger keyhole weld backer when the deck went on. In this picture the top mounted angles are a little [visually] cluttered by the side stiffener strips below them at the middle of the longitudinal stringers on the buttock lines and keel.

To the left of the photo is a tiny forward bulkhead and some of the flat bow deck surface already installed. This area was so compact no interior framing members were needed, all the hull welds were completed inside so there was no reason to leave this small point as part of the bow deck fit.

A strip of bar/plate 0.125" thick has been bridged over the Vee of the keel at the centerline. This forms another triangular box beam of the bottom panels and this tension member behind and above them. This is stronger than a vertical keel bar of four times the depth- unless it was thicker. So for lower profile in framing and light wt construction, a bar backer like this is plenty stiff and easier by far to fit and weld.

AT the stern we see the top of the transom cutout of the motor well is done, and the well has been welded to the hull inside and the side decks, which will be the bottom of lockers, is installed.

FULL DISCLOSURE:
[ Even with the Davis Jig these corners were tight for an old fat boy to get in position to weld. If I did another skiff of this size I'd find a trim young welder or redesign this space so I could fit my heavy displacement carcass.]

Visible but not clear, are the vertical bars at the inner chine which have the rolled angle deck frames butted to them. I didn't want to butt the deck frames to the sides. This would make welding the inner chine that much more of a contortion, approaching the limit of even a push pull style MIG gun to reach into corners. Also deck frames butted to the topsides would leave a pucker from the weld around that profile inside the hull.

The fore deck is flat side to side while the after deck is cambered. A 5' wide piece of 0.100" deck will 'oil can' if left flat unless the framing centers are smaller than I wanted to build. I chose to combine camber and small center framing to get a firm but light wt deck. The deck angles are rolled to 1-1/2" in five feet and that will tension the deck, shed water a little easier into the sides of the deck and hopefully eliminate 'oil canning'.

Forward the bulkhead, which now has its top after edge of a 1/4 segment of 3" pipe to round the transition, the main hull connections follow the waterlines.

Outside, at the chines, is another vertical element but this time a 2" x 1" angle that was rolled to the chine's plan view curve. The straight angle deck beams are butted to this and there are short legs of angle standing on the [curving] chine plate allowing the deck to be slanted up but in one plane.

The deck beams are standing on legs that weld to a another pair of rolled angles which touch the hull and are welded into two waterline planes. If you roll the angle in one direction and leave the other side flat then you'd describe a curve in a plane and that is how this area of hull stiffening is built.

These angle are upside down in that the narrow flange is welded to the hull to give the widest possible distribution of deck wt to the hull, and the vertical legs are lapped to the upright leg of these four rolled angles.

Yes, this is overbuilt in one sense of skiff construction. But... I didn't have any smaller or thinner angle than 0.125" on hand, didn't want to wait for an order to arrive and was willing to do most anything to insure the deck didn't have to be redone to increase rigidity.

Another view of the framing details to help make my rambling text easier to connect to the boat.

Closer again, the bow deck framing details in a reasonably focused [for me] photo.

I am rarely accused of building too light, and as you can see in this example perhaps I'm so cautious that I've gone past reasonable headed toward "bullet proof"? Everyone has to build to the level they are comfortable and I'd gotten a little concerned about my decision to make the skiff of 0.100" instead of at least 0.125". Combined with the alloy change to 5052; my framing was a symptom of my worry that I'd been too concerned with wt conservation and under-built the boat.

In the end that was not the case but I think most of us would error on the side of 'tougher than train wheels' instead of "close enough nail it" or "good enough for government work"?

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Decks

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Decks

CheapboatKev,
I'd hope to show how simple this was? I know if you haven't done this level of build before lots of steps seem hard to do, but its all pretty simple with practice. I've made lots of skiffs and built full time in the 70's and 80's so I get the benefit of my very own "millions of mistakes" - still, anyone could learn to do the same thing.

Decking this little skiff was simple as I provided a seam down the centerline of the curved or cambered deck and the fore deck as planar so a jog stick will fit the entire plate in one go.

The bow deck is fit and keyhole drilled for field welding and pretty much ready to go in at the stage of this photo.

Another view of the bow deck which butted to the 1/4 pipe used to top the main bulkhead and soften that small step. Each of the key holes will have an angle flange beneath them as weld back up and the key hole pocket welds will pick up the angle in the weld. This attaches the deck in an water proof, airtight and strong attachment to the frames.

The decks are in and the pocket/keyhole welds dressed off and the air pressure test done or in progress. This image may help make clear the idea behind each deck sections top surface. To the left is the foredeck an inclined but flat plane sloping aft and therefore draining easily onto the after deck. The underlying framing followed the waterline planes and interconnecting the top was a series of angle extrusion legs.

The after deck, to the right, is cambered over rolled angles to increase the tension on the top. It was tacked along the centerline then bent more and more down and out until it could be tacked to the sides above the outer chines. This deck is roughly parallel to the waterline at rest so it won't drain as well if left flat but cambered it runs off to the sides which then empty aft to the well.

After, main and foredeck panels all installed and field welds are sanded fair, the pressure test is done [all my leakers are fixed!] and the centerline seam is sanded off as well.

In the stern risers are taped to the sides to help begin fitting the lockers that will fill these spaces and act as seats.

A quick look at the whole project from a few feet away compared to the pictures taken in the shop. The deck is in, well is done at the deck intersection and with this pressure test complete the lockers can begin above the after deck flanking the well.

cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Decks

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Decks

Kevin, I continue to be awestruck! WOW.

Please check your private messages.

Bob

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Seats and Lockers

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Seats and Lockers

Bob VT, thanks for the kind words, it's time for some seating.

There are two seats aft and one center pedestal forward, we'll work on the after ones first but the pedestal will likely be in these shots as we go along. The seats aft are mainly just two curved plates that are a Z or squared Z in plan view.

On top of them is an angle extrusion frame made to have a planar surface to weld to the top edges of the side panels and butt to the topsides under the after guard deck.

OK I said to ignore the oval pedestal but here it is in the center of this picture when I want to call attention to the seat sides aft. They are overlapping in the middle at the front of the well because they were formed to be fit outward along the topsides.

So the two sides we see touching the deck, near the centerline only, and at the bottom outboard corners touching the topsides, will be fit down and cut off to the shape of a station at that location.

This image of the same setting, from astern, shows the outlines of the rough blanks better than the previous photo because of the lighting and the pedestal being in the background.

Its probably a good place to say these plates and the pedestal were all formed on the English Wheel built to form these parts. I don't have a plate rolls, and didn't want to ask another shop to make these odd ball parts. The two rolls in the locker sides are about 3" diameter and the pedestal is of course oval in plan view.

English Wheels are very nice forming machines, versatile and simple to learn, and can be built from scrap with the wheeling parts purchased at very low cost online.

OK design change: if you look at the locker sides you'll realize they are no longer one piece. After fitting the vertical bent side wall pieces shown above I didn't like the intersection with the well. The lines seemed less clean without leaning the after transverse cylinder's axis to the same angle as the front of the outboard well. So we rolled more stock, trimmed in these two inclined curves to transition from the seat locker vertical to the well's transom angle.

Getting down to the seat level view and closer to the after seat lockers, we begin to see the simple construction of this locker/seat combo. The top is made of odd legged angle with the short leg up as a coaming to keep water from running into the lockers and the wider leg is welded to other angles to create a flat surface at the top of the side wall piece in the foreground.

This entire top plate and locker opening coaming piece was made up on the bench and fit & tacked to the topsides, the well sides and the locker vertical panel(s). In fact the top of the well had some curvature resulting from the need to finish weld the base to obtain an air test prior to making lockers above. The fore and after outboard sides of the well were straightened using this coaming piece as a strong back at 90 degrees to the well sides.

Zooming back just a bit to include the starboard locker being framed up, the butt joint preparation is more visible where a flat bar is used to from the plane between the two pieces that are butted. These bars are taken off and the tacks sanded down after the lockers are welded out.

A little out of sequence this overview of the inside of the stern lockers also shows the well finish and the taft rail. Its included here because of the lack of another image to complete this sequence of the skiff's construction.

We'll probably have to use this shot again, but here its showing the raised coaming and the final shape of the locker sides. TIG welding the top plate for these lockers was only possible on the bench so it was made as a sub-assembly then final fit to the skiff.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Wow is about the only thing that comes to mind.
Great workmanship. great design, great set of skills, great detail in the thread and great work center.
Looks like you have anything and everything you need.
Lots of envy from me.
Looking forward to seeing the completed boat.
Bob

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Pedestal Seat

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: Pedestal Seat

I think I've already mentioned that trimming a V bottomed 14'er is tender. If the skiff has a 200lb fatboy welder on the port -the skiff will list to port. Bench seats are handy in some boats because they give transverse stiffness, maybe some flotation or a locker. But sidewise seats also let the crew sit by the gunwale instead of the centerline where you want them.

I decided that the shape of the boat would be complimented by an oval pedestal which would allow four adults to sit in this skiff back to back in a circle. If only one were aboard the skipper or the crew could move in very small amounts around the oval and trim the skiff regardless of the load or seas.

We rolled a pair of parabolic arcs on the E'Wheel by going fully off the sheet each 'stroke/pass' the wheel will produce uniform cylindrical bends instead of compound bends more often associated with E'Wheels.

The top flange is just band sawed oval halves or 0.187" (3/16") 5086 to give good flatness to the final flange and a larger weld mass as a heat sink.

This glimpse over the gunwale shows the seat top complete and the center of the cover roughed out sitting atop the unmounted pedestal.

Another view of the blank seat/locker ready to fit the deck transition.

The oval pedestal halves are fit and welded to the deck in this photo with the cover blank roughed for shape and some of the epoxy soak coats started. The outer rim of butt blocks hangs down around the sides of the pedestal to form a recess under the cover which locates the cover on the pedestal.

As seen in the other pictures of the work on this seat the rolling marks are visible on the final sides. these could have been 'rolled' out or sanded out but I didn't find them very noticeable so I left them in and they hardly show under that paint.

Plan View from a ladder behind the skiff, all the locker tops are roughed out, preliminary finish is going on and final shaping is next.

The well's multifaceted assembly is also clear. It would have saved lots of welding and fitting to have bent this piece of a single piece of material, but piecing can work out. Plate at the forward face, pipe segments corners and the same pattern repeated on both sides.

In fact this picture also shows the pipe corners of mitered butt weld 90's inside and out, better than previous images. The gunwale plate to pipe welds are sanded and even buffed fairly well to a finish in this view as well.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff; Details

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff; Details

BobsGlasstream, thanks for the kind words, just like everyone I don't have near enough tools! Does anyone admit, to their First Mate, "Sure Honey, I've got plenty of tools, I don't need any more!" ??? It may help to recall that if you work with your tools all day they're 'deductible'? Another circumstance is that if you're building your wife a boat, well, she's a lot more tolerant about time spent and tools bought.

Hand rails, to look nice, really compliment the skiff's lines need to be rolled, bent and formed to echo or nearly match the sheer. In our case the legs of the hand railing will butt T/ saddle to the 1" pipe lining the sheer clamp and hopefully match the nearest upright when appropriate.

This picture taken from above the starboard forward quarter looks down on the forward hand railing, the bow cleat and the breast hook where the cleat is welded. Notice the pipe hand rail is made from three pieces? The near side weld is not dressed off but the port side weld has been sanded fair to the pipe wall. Sometimes its much easier to roll and bend and BUTT the pipes instead of rolling and bending every single shape in one piece.

Pipe benders with higher quality controls offer the ability to make complex shapes more simply, but after bending a few tries at one handrail, I'll usually cut and butt. By sleeving these butt joints with a smaller size pipe and TIG welding them then sanding them clean, the rails are fair, strong and faster than bending five rails to figure out what I did wrong!

We've seen this photo before discussing the lockers, above, but in this case I'd point out the hand railing designed to make the 'helm' station have "deeper sides". The railing is adjacent to the small of your back and elbow when you sit on these two lockers, giving my new Skipper an increased sense of being 'in' the boat.

I've mentioned the canopy that is available to keep off the weather, in this picture we look at the boat with hand rails and canopy legs and frame.

The actual frame that will hold the canvas is simply rolled pipe that is trussed to itself along the main run at the outside; between the to side legs standing in pockets in the gunwale plate.

To locate the canopy's removable pipe legs the legs had to be put in the sockets, and the entire show clamped in place to accurately tack the pockets of oversized pipe used are recesses in the guard deck flat. Because the angles of the sheer and canopy legs aren't exactly related there was no other realistic way to mock up the sockets except to put the whole show up and tack when it was all aligned.

This view explains the camber of the top cover frame as rolled pipe.

Missing from this last view are the top of leg sockets that are welded into the canopy frame. The side truss is easily seen here, all pipe joints were TIG welded all around by turning the frame constantly after tacking up.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[scrawnyronny]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Well Kevin, I wasn't gonna chime in because of my limited experience (next to none), but the hand full of "caucasians" has gotten the better. This is probably one of the best threads I've read. Although way over my head, I can appreciate your awesome skill and craftmanship and just wanted to say as much. Outstanding!!! Thanks for sharing your project.

Ron

 

[tinkeringwackyone]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

I am in awe over the workmanship. beautiful work. definitely a piece of art.

 

[Kevin Morin]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Ron, tinkering'one, thanks for the kind words, please accept mine in reply.

I'm sure you guys know that results like this skiff come from getting 'off the limb and 'killing' something'? "Just do it", "Go for it"..., "take no prisoners","The only thing you regret is what you don't try". I'm sure you know where I'm headed?

In my late 20's, a very long time ago, I decided that welded plate aluminum boats had to be something I could model with paper- both materials are flat sheet and don't bend, cold, too well into bicycle fenders [compound curved shapes].

A few nights after my day job as an oilfield welder, with scissors over the kitchen table, convinced me of this fact. I 'taped up' [Scotch Brand- not Miller or Lincoln welding wire] some skiff shapes and then realized that by laying a grid on my models and scaling up the paper to real size I could 'make' a full sized fishing skiff's hull panels; right off my models. If I could model it: I could 'built' it.

After learning that no one in my area knew enough more than I did after my fermented hops based, adult beverage fueled, training sessions and could offer a 'better' boat; I decided to borrow the money to "build one". It was pretty poorly formed, compared to this little 14'er I'm showing here, but that skiff is still in the water to this day; nearly forty years after the fact.

[Man! is it homely, I cringe when I see it which is so rare as to be a relief.]

I'd say that anyone with a serious will to learn could do as well with some practice.

Thanks again, for your kind remarks, I'll finish the next time I have some time at work to post.

In the mean time, since I'm home without the files on my work PC, I'll take some time to explain a detail that may have been noticed before: this skiff's cleats are shaped as 'keys'.

If you're not into tall tales or wandering stories from older geezers; then please just skip this next few paragraphs and I'll have some pictures up next.

Seldovia, Alaska is a tiny harbor town that until the 70's had no protection from a North wind -that would be a winter wind in that area. They used to move the town's boats up the Tidal Slough, immediately behind the rock redoubt on which the town is located, but that required a draw bridge.

Around the turn of the last century [1900 not Y2K] the log draw bridge was driven by a draw works that was in a tiny hut at the town end of the bridge. The KEY to that hut was kept in a cabin a few dozen feet from the foot of that bridge.

My wife purchased the bed and breakfast built on the site of the cabin where the bridge draw works KEY was kept; the name of the house is The Bridge Keeper's Inn. My wife made the KEY her logo symbol to match the historic legacy of the house's site.

The skiff is named 'The Little Key' and the cleats are 1/2" 6061 T6 round bar formed to approximate the KEY in her logo. I already said this was a 'chick skiff' so I hope you can appreciate the name and the cleats' symbol as deriving from my wife's B&B's name and the story behind that house?

They are just a bent round of bar butted to a rod of about 6" that has a block of 1/2" plate welded to the bar. All the sides and ends and joints were rounded and smoothed, all the way to buffing with 3M pads, and then the cleats were TIGged to their base plates.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[scrawnyronny]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

It would seem your skills in boat building are as savvy as your wife skills. I think there may be more wisdom to share.?.? Perhaps on a different site though.

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff ; nearly ready

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff ; nearly ready

We painted the skiff by etching with warmed phosphoric acid and rinsed with water, while the water was still wet on the newly "de-oxided" metal we covered the boat with Allodyne or which forms a chromium oxide layer instead of aluminum oxide layer.

The primer sticks to chrome oxide much better than aluminum and the top coats stick to primer. We didn't use a self etching primer because of the mixed sucess that system has shown in our area. We used the PPG product line of paints and I had a body fender shop shoot the topcoat we taped the skiff and tinfoiled the hand rails and delivered her to their shop with a marked waterline taped off . They hung a skirt and did all the yellow and green on top of a uniform primer.

Bow on image of the boat painted but not bottom coated. Seats or locker covers are done of cedar from the big box home store and covered in enough epoxy to cast a sidewalk.

Here the overall look of the lines of the sheer, complimented I hope, by the hand rails and the spray rail give the final look , before adding the canopy. The gold streaks below the waterline/bootline are from the chrome conversion of the oxide layer, this is pretty common to form a somewhat uneven coloring of the etched metal.

From the stern, one of the locker drain conduits are shown. A 1" fold-over cam acting plug fills this pipe from the inside wall of the well at the aft end of the locker.

The other side from aft the transom.

Name and logo was made by a vinyl decal company from art files supplied. Gray Americoat 235 primer was hand brushed over the bottom areas in preparation for the EPaint antifoul paint.

Closer view of the name plate but one of the first decent views of the wrap around curved angle where the spray rail wraps the transom.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[Kevin Morin]

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: In Her New Home Harbor

14' Welded Aluminum Skiff: In Her New Home Harbor

If anyone knows the waters of Kachemak Bay they'll realize I had a 15-16 mile trip to get the skiff to her new home. That was a long putt going 8 or 10 knots so we got a ride.

A friend has a welded aluminum landing craft, he lives in Seldovia and very kindly volunteered to come to the Homer Harbor, and load the 14'er onto his 30'er and haul it to Seldovia.

So one sunny afternoon, he and I loaded the Little Key on his deck through the bow door, rolled her off the highway trailer on plastic pipe rollers- Egyptian style. His 10 year old daughter piloted us back to Seldovia while Dad and I visited on the cargo deck and keep the skiff(s) and other cargo from banging around too much.

Bow door is down, the skiff is the only green boat in this load. Pilot of the Retriever landing craft is to my right in shadow,holding the Key's painter, I'm on the bow door in a green shirt. Miss Pilot's Dad, the Skipper of the boat, is back to camera under the Little Key's canopy and Maggie the Ship's Dog patrols the dock.

Finally, the entire skiff is launched in her new home port. Notice the rather homely orange nylon tie straps holding the canopy on? The SS retractable ball pins for the sockets top and bottom each of the four canopy legs have not arrived to be included in this photo. So the straps were on for the entire first [fall] season; she wasn't launched until mid August last year.

No, this is not a picture of the Ancient Mariner, its the builder rigging a bumper before tying the to the harbor rail. Canvas top was not done well enough to suit the rigging shop that produced this cover. This one was returned and completely redone last winter and we only paid once!

Alone at last, the Little Key sits at the harbor rail, the waterline boot is higher than needed because two people take her down that 4" -7" showing here. Canopy sags show more clearly here, but the new one is nice and taut, even so, the sheer of the canopy line should have been more pronounced in order to show more complimentary lines to the sheer of the skiff. The curve of the canopy is not very obvious in this picture.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[Kevin Morin]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

This spring before the canvas riggers returned the canopy the Skipper of the Little Key took me and the new puppy for a tour up the Bay.

So, after all the designing, building,painting rigging and tale telling, here is the Skipper, tiller in hand, leaving the Seldovia Harbor breakwater and fending off the Ship's Dog with the other. Battery and fuel lines run into the starboard locker to keep the clutter down, ambient temp is about 45deg F in this photo

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

 

[vegasphotoman]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

heck that looks expensive! (all that new aluminum!)

Wow blown away....

amazing work!

 

[SCHRECK]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Great design and superior workmanship, it is just great looking, perfect good. Peter

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Kevin,

On behalf of iboats, the Moderator staff and all of the iboats members ......

Thank you for sharing that beautiful boat and it's story! A copy of this build has been placed in the completed projects section. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=363271

Little Key is a real huge class act!

 

[Rickairmedic]

Re: 14' Welded Aluminum Skiff

Kevin that is quite an amazing project there . Ok now for my question did you use MIG or TIG to put her together .


Rick