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Water getting in.........

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  • Water getting in.........

    Mod comment: This thread is a continuation of a thread started in the Mercruiser repair forum. To see the beginning of the thread, click here -> https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ter-getting-in

    Chris.
    iboats mod team


    As to the above, the camera is in constant use. It's one of the best tools I have! And now that the original query about water ingress is turning into a total transom reconstruction, a mod might deem it appropriate to move it to the "restoration and Rebuilds" forum. Please feel free.

    Today I got the exhaust Y pipe removed and surprise, surprise, it was loose, with one of the top bolts missing and the bottom ones just holding on, thanks to corrosion on the lugs. See attached picture. I can sort this out so it's not a major worry. There was no sign of any gasket or seal either!
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Y pipe.jpg Views:	1 Size:	92.8 KB ID:	10702158

    I also got the inner transom assembly off along with the outer gimble assembly, but not without some corroded nuts shearing off, with the remnants stuck inside the gimble housing. Also not a worry as I'm replacing the Gimble assembly as previously intended. As an aside, there was no gasket or seal on the gimble assembly where it mates to the transom. Is this normal or should there be one there? I've noticed that some outdrives seem to have gaskets/seals and some don't. Am I right in this assumption and if there isn't usually a seal there, can it do any harm to arrange one?
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Transom bolts.jpg Views:	1 Size:	81.6 KB ID:	10702159

    Then I started drilling some exploratory holes, down low and close to the keyhole. I could see the rot around the keyhole opening and expected mush, which I got. So widening my explorations, I got more mush, and more mush, which continued as I went upwards and outwards. I went as far as I could without having to do any chopping, as mentioned in a previous post in relation to the two "battery ledges".

    I cut away the inner fibreglass skin and found very little of the original transom. In some places it was just wet paper. In fact, when I was cutting through the glass along the bottom edge, water was actually running out of the cut.

    So I'm going to have to continue cutting and chopping, just to get access to clear out the old transom material and to give me room to get the new transom in situ. It will be just under 8' wide and about 3'6" high at it's deepest point. To this end, if needed, is it possible or advisable to fit the transom in sections, as in, one skin cut horizontally at about it's centre line and then cut the second skin vertically. this means the joints are staggered. I ask this because I wont have total, clear access to the transom area. In hindsight, it might have been a lot easier to do the transom from the outside, but I wanted to avoid messing with the exterior of the boat. And removing the battery ledges means I can reinstate them properly.

    That's it for the moment. I have to make up a cover for a friends boat, so I'll be alternating between that and my transom work. Some pics showing the extent of the rot.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Transom 2.jpg Views:	1 Size:	157.0 KB ID:	10702161Click image for larger version  Name:	Transom 3.jpg Views:	1 Size:	239.1 KB ID:	10702162Click image for larger version  Name:	Transom 1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	165.9 KB ID:	10702160
    Last edited by achris; February 4th, 2019, 05:55 PM. Reason: Add comment regarding thread origin
    1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

  • #2
    A glorious day here today with blue skies and sunshine and very warm for the time of year. So I got some chopping done before I had to meet up with my friend to make a start on his canopy/cover. I cut away some more material and got down, in a few places, as far as the original fibreglass on the inside of the transom. I cut away the aforementioned battery shelf for better access, but I still foresee issues in relation to fitting the new transom. Ergo my previous question about putting the transom in, in sections. Not my preferred option, but the only other alternative that I can think of, is to cut the cap away across the top of the transom, which would give me total access, for a full depth, full width replacement transom. It would also make removal of the old material somewhat easier.

    I'm not worried about dressing off the cut once all is finished. I have a few thoughts in mind. Can I assume that removing this section of the cap won't affect the structural integrity of the boat? I can easily brace the hull across it's width just to prevent any serious movement. FWIW, the boat is currently sitting on its' bunked trailer, minus the weight of the engine. Any thoughts appreciated.
    I'm considering making the cut on the cap across the corner, like a mitre, provided that gives me the required access. Otherwise it would be a straight cut across, roughly where the cleat is.

    Click image for larger version

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    1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

    Comment


    • #3
      There's folks on this forum with a hell of a lot more experience than I with transom restorations, but off hand I have seen others do their restorations both ways, cutting the cap or sectioning the transom. Also seen transoms go in in overlapping layers.You kind of have to pick your poison. I would be sitting in the helm chair with a margarita (freezing weather or no freezing weather) contemplating the task from every angle until I picked whatever seemed most doable for me. Off hand I think I would cut the cap. Not all that big a deal to put it all back - for me the hardest part would be the gel coat repair where I cut it. Others seem to find gel coat pretty easy.... Guess it's just a personal shortcoming I have there.

      Rick
      17 Foot '90 Bluewater
      Alpha 1 3.0 Merc - repowered in 2016
      now - 4.3L Vortec - Alpha 1 GenII
      Honda BF100L kicker
      Engine custom - Transom 0D65328 - Drive 0D648864
      If you ain't fishin, then yer working too much.

      Comment


      • #4
        Many thanks for that. Everything is telling me that cutting the section of cap away is the best approach. Looks like that's the way I'll go. But not today, it's pouring rain!
        1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

        Comment


        • #5
          Cut the cap!!! It's easy to put it back and only you will know it was done.
          1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
          Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
          Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Oh my...you are into it now. Yup do as wog recommends. Lots of good ole boys to help you thru it.
            That's how I approached my transom.
            Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
            1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump
            www.flotationfoamsolutions.com

            Comment


            • #7
              So, weather permitting, tomorrow I'll be cutting the cap off above the top of the transom. Poured rain today so I didn't get near it, and I spent my time indoors sewing up my friends boat cover. Still more to do on that in between my demolition work. Thanks for the inputs and lots of questions will follow as I progress.
              1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

              Comment


              • #8
                Save all your cuts then they can be laid back in. In mine a straight cut would not let me pull the cap.
                I had to do a double cut, that's the pcs. I saved to put back later so my build up wasn't to crazy.
                Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump
                www.flotationfoamsolutions.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  So yesterday, with literally a half hour free, I got the swim platform removed. I wanted to take it away as the various fixing bolts run through into what was left of the transom and would have been in my way. Then this morning, before the weather turned bad again, I bit the bullet and cut the cap. I removed the relevant section of rub rail and got at the fixing screws beneath. Then a flat blade scraper helped to break the Sikaflex type seal between the cap and the hull. Out with a very thin blade in the grinder and voila, the cap is off. Replacing it wont be an issue as much of the cut will be covered up when things go back together again.

                  Removing the cap makes cleaning out the old transom material much easier and will make installation of the new transom a "comparative" walk in the park. The only bit of somewhat dry wood was in a 9" square section right at the top of the transom at the mid point. This wasn't even totally dry. The rest is in varying degrees of mush, which makes removal much easier.

                  The predicted rains came and I had to call it a day, but that just meant retiring to the shed and sewing up more of my friends boat cover. I can't see much happening tomorrow as we have a bad weather warning in effect, but I'm much happier now with how things are going and happy that the boat will be much better for it's surgery. I still have to look closer at the stringers/motor mounts, but that's for another day. Click image for larger version

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                  1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Alright... looking good!
                    Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                    1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump
                    www.flotationfoamsolutions.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by kcassells View Post
                      Alright... looking good!
                      Thanks for the encouragement. Just wish the weather was better! I'm tempted to build some sort of cover to allow me to plough on at it.
                      1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yup that's what I did. Some 2x4's, 1" pvc and fittings, medium duty tarp. If I'm ambitious I can take the temps from 20 degrees to 80 in @ 15 minutes. Oh yea and be dry.
                        Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                        1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump
                        www.flotationfoamsolutions.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          One thing I would advise is get literally everything removed. Thinking you can work around wiring or fittings or anything else just puts off when you finally remove anything removable in the stern. I took my time and kept on with odds and bits attached and regretted wasting time working around anything.
                          17 Foot '90 Bluewater
                          Alpha 1 3.0 Merc - repowered in 2016
                          now - 4.3L Vortec - Alpha 1 GenII
                          Honda BF100L kicker
                          Engine custom - Transom 0D65328 - Drive 0D648864
                          If you ain't fishin, then yer working too much.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I hear you and that's how I'd usually work. I have removed most of the various bits and what's left is beneath all the rot that I've removed. Today, while working between the showers, I decided that before I go any further, I'm going to clean up everything and remove any final bits and pieces, especially now as I'm getting down to the final stage. I'll need to do so in order to get down to the bottom edge of what's left of the transom.
                            1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              Happy days. I have 99% of the old transom removed, with just the bottom edge to clean out. I had left a strip/ section of the old fibreglass in place when I cut away the outer skin of the transom, which leaves a sort of channel for the new transom to sit into. I'm now wondering if this is needed at all as it makes it harder to clean out the last of the old transom material. I'm thinking that I could cut this lip away and simply grind and clean the old fibreglass to key it up for tabbing the new glass onto.


                              Any thoughts appreciated.
                              In the meantime, some pics of an almost totally clean transom. Exciting, isn't it...……...






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                              Click image for larger version  Name:	Transom clean 1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	217.0 KB ID:	10704318
                              Attached Files
                              1990 Wellcraft 250 Sportsman. Mercruiser 5.7

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