1990 4.3 Century 2000 - Floor,Transom,Stringer,Upholstery Project

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Back in April I asked about to purchase this boat. Well I did knowing it needed everything looked over and alot of things fixed and replaced.
Here is what I did so far on the Trailer (2003):
- Fixed the trailer brake system with new actuator and brake pistons (drum brakes).
- New LED lights and side marker
- Safety chain. Old one was cable style, ouch
- Replaced grease in bearings with marine grease. Bearings looked ok
Here is what I did on the boat:
- Disassembled lower and upper unit and replaced seals. Propshaft was bend (.050") and had it straightened on a 20 ton press and is now within .002".
- Replaced water pump
- Stripped and painted outdrive
- New gimbal bearing and bellows
- New alternator, old one was a car alternator. tsts
- New power steering pump. Just replaced the pump. Housing is the same, and yes, I switched the relieve valve too.
- New belt since it was squealing all of a sudden.
- New blower since the old one made a lot of noise and I could see sparks inside the housing.

I had the boat out about 4 times and it ran pretty good. I couldn't fully test it because of lake conditions and I also did not want to push my luck and brake something. T tried it out 2 times on a man made lake and hit tree stumps in the lake. Lost two AL props and limbed back home. Had it out on lake Erie and went tubing and water skiing without any problems. Last weekend we went to Lake James in Indiana and I had it up to 35mph on the speedometer with a 14x19 4 blade al prop at about 4400rpm and haven't started to trim out yet. Boat is waterlogged and has a very rough keel due to old anti fouling paint.

I'm now in the process to build a cradle so I can have it in the barn over the winter to work on. My barn doors are only 8ft wide and the trailer would not fit. I have a 2ton engine crane that will hopefully be tall enough to do the job. I measured it and the hook is at 87" above the floor fully extended.

The trailer bunks are shot because the trailer is actually for a longer boat. I believe that whoever sold the trailer to the previous owner had no idea how to setup a boat trailer. The rear bunks need to move forward and there is another hole for a secondary position.

I plan on doing a bench seat with a sun deck instead of the doghouse. Maybe even with lounge seat around. Something like what you see with newer boats. I already picked up a brand new captains chair that somebody did not need anymore.

I have been researching boat restorations for about 8 years when I came across friscoboaters youtube channel. Still following him on his new adventure.
Now I keep following also the other ones here of course like, Archbuilder, Chevymaher, oops!, Don S, Mad props, woodonglass etc, etc. I hope I can contribute something as well.

So winter is coming soon and time is short. I keep on posting.
 

Attachments

  • photo301505.jpg
    photo301505.jpg
    295.2 KB · Views: 10
  • photo301506.jpg
    photo301506.jpg
    290.3 KB · Views: 11
  • photo301511.jpg
    photo301511.jpg
    318.9 KB · Views: 9
  • photo301512.jpg
    photo301512.jpg
    280.3 KB · Views: 30
  • photo301513.jpg
    photo301513.jpg
    339.6 KB · Views: 9
  • photo301514.jpg
    photo301514.jpg
    237.3 KB · Views: 9
  • photo301515.jpg
    photo301515.jpg
    253.6 KB · Views: 10

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
So I got the rear cradle build and hopefully finish the front one tomorrow. Need chains for the engine lift. The engine shouldn't weigh more than 800 lbs, right?
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Got the ctadle build. Rear is 2x 4x4 side by side and the front 1x 4x4. I have 4x4 underneath for lift which will be removed after its off the trailer so the boat sits lower on the ground. Plan is to lift it up and slide it slowly out. Then move the trailer back and start over until its off the trailer.
 

Attachments

  • photo301616.jpg
    photo301616.jpg
    220.4 KB · Views: 3
  • photo301617.jpg
    photo301617.jpg
    225.2 KB · Views: 3
  • photo301618.jpg
    photo301618.jpg
    214.8 KB · Views: 3
  • photo301619.jpg
    photo301619.jpg
    270.7 KB · Views: 3
  • photo301620.jpg
    photo301620.jpg
    293.6 KB · Views: 3

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Picked this one up today. Made between 1935 and 1941. Direct drive. I bought an open box singer 4423 6 months ago and just found out that the timing is off but heard this one is the better solution anyways
 

Attachments

  • photo301888.jpg
    photo301888.jpg
    324.5 KB · Views: 3
  • photo301889.jpg
    photo301889.jpg
    335.6 KB · Views: 3

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Ae026357
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_2018-09-26-15-16-57.png
    Screenshot_2018-09-26-15-16-57.png
    830.2 KB · Views: 2

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Just took the outdrive off and found oil in the bellows. Checked the oil in the outdrive and it looks ok. When I filled it a couple of weeks ago I may have overfilled it. Like really made sure it comes out good on top at the upper screw. I also did not change the inner seal of the shaft coming from the motor. Only the o-ring. I pressure tested it over night back then empty without oil and lost not even 0.5psi. I filled it at 9psi. Any advise? Pressure test again?
 

Attachments

  • 0926182100-1047x1396.jpg
    0926182100-1047x1396.jpg
    148.1 KB · Views: 2
  • 0926182059b-1047x1396.jpg
    0926182059b-1047x1396.jpg
    382.6 KB · Views: 2
  • 0926182100b-1047x1396.jpg
    0926182100b-1047x1396.jpg
    288.2 KB · Views: 2

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Well the Singer is a Model 15 Made December 5th 1935. One of 35000 for the production run.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
I'm pretty well versed on those machines, sooooo, if you need any tips on use, i'd be happy to help. The key on ANY sewing machine is getting the proper thread tension on the bobbin and the topside thread. Somewhere around 5-7 on the top side. Bobbin should be enuf to hold the thread in your hand and try to "Yo-Yo" the bobbin case. It should only drop about 1".
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
I have read online that a lot of them need rewiring. How do I know that mine needs this too or maybe it was already done to it. Wires look ok and I don't see any dry rot
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Oil her at all the oil points 2 drops. Plug her in and run her full speed for 30 seconds. If she needs rewiring she'll slow down and possibly spit out some smoke. If not...You're good to go.

Click image for larger version  Name:	OilingPoints.jpg Views:	1 Size:	67.6 KB ID:	10660894
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Pulled the engine today with a friend. Already build a cart for it to move into the garage. I think I need a new riser. It wasn't leaking when I had it out this year. Looks Like it was leaking before I got it and got welded. Was this freeze damage? The other side looks good. It always was a freshwater boat. Anybody bought one from GLM? What are your experiences?
 

Attachments

  • photo302175.jpg
    photo302175.jpg
    170.3 KB · Views: 7
  • photo302176.jpg
    photo302176.jpg
    151.6 KB · Views: 7
  • photo302177.jpg
    photo302177.jpg
    195.3 KB · Views: 7
  • photo302178.jpg
    photo302178.jpg
    170.9 KB · Views: 7
  • photo302179.jpg
    photo302179.jpg
    170.1 KB · Views: 7
  • photo302181.jpg
    photo302181.jpg
    48.5 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
Starting to pull the boat into the barn and off the trailer. Maybe tomorrow evening I got her inside.
 

Attachments

  • photo302312.jpg
    photo302312.jpg
    432.8 KB · Views: 5
  • photo302313.jpg
    photo302313.jpg
    319.8 KB · Views: 5
  • photo302314.jpg
    photo302314.jpg
    423.9 KB · Views: 5
  • photo302315.jpg
    photo302315.jpg
    343.4 KB · Views: 5

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
693
Pulled the engine today with a friend. Already build a cart for it to move into the garage. I think I need a new riser. It wasn't leaking when I had it out this year. Looks Like it was leaking before I got it and got welded. Was this freeze damage? The other side looks good. It always was a freshwater boat. Anybody bought one from GLM? What are your experiences?

Yes, that does look like common freeze damage patch job, which brings up more worry about the condition of the block, heads, and intake manifold.

Manifolds generally don't crack like that for no reason, that crack happens because water hardens when frozen and busts up metal walls when expanding. I'm not as familiar with the complications that happen due to overheat condition.

If exhaust manifolds wear out, they would have likely degraded/rusted inside over time to the point of allow the cooling water into the dry section of the exhaust manifolds where the threat of water ingestion occurs into the cylinders.

Get the block pressure tested, you might have more surprises waiting for you

Might be worth opening a seperate thread in the Mercrusier sterndrive section of the forum to sort out the details of checking for freeze damage checking entire engine & drive condition.
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
There is no water in the oil and it starts very good on cold. When warmed up I have a little hesitation. I had it out 4 times after the oil change and it runs good. The oil that came out was nice and black.
 

Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
897
How to pressure test the block. Will pull the plugs and do a cylinder pressure test. Looking around, it seems that the exhaust manifold can sometimes crack with little water still standing in it.
 

Attachments

  • photo302178.jpg
    photo302178.jpg
    170.9 KB · Views: 0

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
693
How to pressure test the block. Will pull the plugs and do a cylinder pressure test. Looking around, it seems that the exhaust manifold can sometimes crack with little water still standing in it.

To be specific, I was referring to pressure testing the cooling system on the engine block.

You can have a cracked block and it not leak into the oil or leak water very slowly.
 
Top