*new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

morning,

jt, I suck at brazing, lol I can weld very well but cant braze for @#$%....

jig, I thought about that also but my 1/4 blind rivets are not long enough to go thru the keel and rib then a patch also.... so I looked at jay-cee and they have some with a length of .695 and a grip range of 251-375 .... do you think they would belong enough ?

thanks


bass

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

morning,

jt, I suck at brazing, lol I can weld very well but cant braze for @#$%....

jig, I thought about that also but my 1/4 blind rivets are not long enough to go thru the keel and rib then a patch also.... so I looked at jay-cee and they have some with a length of .695 and a grip range of 251-375 .... do you think they would belong enough ?

thanks


bass

That'll be plenty long enough.

You've got 1/16" for the hull, 1/16" for the patch, and maybe 3/32" for the keel guard thickness... that not quite 1/4". Those rivets will be long enough to go through the keel, hull, patch, and rib too.

The grip range on those rivets is a fuzz over 1/4" - 3/8".

I'd slip the patch between the hull and the rib and you know it won't be going anywhere then.

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

jig,

thanks for the help.... now I have another question im hoping someone can help with...
I have an 11 gallon permanent fuel tank that I bought along time ago and would like to use on this boat and was wondering since the transom is so high and the splash well fairly large if I could mount the filler there without any problems ? otherwise im not sure where I could locate the fill for it....

thanks


bass

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

jig,

thanks for the help.... now I have another question im hoping someone can help with...
I have an 11 gallon permanent fuel tank that I bought along time ago and would like to use on this boat and was wondering since the transom is so high and the splash well fairly large if I could mount the filler there without any problems ? otherwise im not sure where I could locate the fill for it....

thanks


bass

Sure you can, just mount it at the highest point on the splashwell and on the port side and you'll be good to go.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

Yep, fuel filler in the splashwell, common occurrence, at least on Starcrafts:

My Holiday's is on the flat @port splashwell ^^^

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

hello again,

I have another question, I didn't notice this at first but when I took the old floor out there were no supports going out from the center 2 rail support except 1 small one at the front see pic please....

what can I use for under floor supports ? I looked at flat aluminum pieces but they want $10.00 each for 18 inch pieces .... there must be other ways that are less expensive ?

thanks again


bass

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

That's the thing about the longitudnal stringer design in an aluminum boat. They delete a lot of framing and let the expanding foam support the decking.

For framing material, go to your local metal scrap yards and recycle centers. They sell the metal by the pound there and it's a small fraction of the cost of new.

I'd use 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/16" thick aluminum angle on 16" or over each rib in the hull centers to frame that up with.

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

jig, thanks again you've been a big helps so far ..... I never thought about scrap yards for aluminum pieces.....

I happen to think after I posted the question that I had those 2 long scrap hull pieces that they had from the original build of the boat for noise insulation I think..... I am going to use a small piece of that for the hole patch and the rest I will cut with my 5 " double cut saw into strips for the supports....the hull pieces should be more than strong enough...


thanks again.


bass

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

well,

the transom is out..... its in one piece to use for a template for the new one going in ....

I see most people are using gorilla glue to glue their transom together .... is that that best/easiest way to do it ?

I don't have any clamps and no way to get them in a hurry .. once glued can I set some cinder blocks on it until it cures ?

and how much glue will I need to get ? transom is 74 wide by 12 ....


thanks again


bass

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

Ok, to build your transom, I'd recommend the following...

2 pieces of 3/4 plywood. Titebond III wood glue. It's 100% waterproof when cured and actually stronger than Gorilla Glue!

Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue


(Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue is the first one-part, water cleanup wood glue ever offered that is proven waterproof. The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature. )

(Gorilla Glue if you want but not needed) 1 1/4 " Deck screws. Cut the plywood to size and then glue and screw it together @ 4" to 6" spacing. Leave or remove the screws, your choice. Those screws will be sealed in, and will last the life of the boat. I used to say remove em but really no reason to. Seal the wood with your choice of methods. Epoxy is the BEST. Multiple coats of Marine Varnish is also very good. 3-4 coats of a good Oil Based paint will make it last many years. Most important thing is the edges. That's where water will attack first and easiest. Make sure they get sealed well. I like the old timers method for sealing wood. 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil, 1 part Mineral Spirits and 1 part Varnish or Polyurethane. Mix it all up and soak the wood with it. Wipe of the excess and let dry for 48 hours. Paint the wood and it'll be sealed for decades. Always remember to predrill and coat the holes and hardware with a good quality marine sealant, like 3M 4200 or 5200 and your transom will last as long as the boat.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

Gorilla Glue, Titebond III, and PL Premium are all good adhesives and will do a good job and last a long time and they're all readily available at the big box stores.

I however, prefer something different. I really like a handmade thickened marine grade epoxy resin adhesive. It's very tough, waterproof, and cheap to make when you're sealing your wood with epoxy resin anyway.

When sealing wood for marine applications paints, oils, varnishes, and urethanes can't hold a candle to the toughness and durability of epoxy resin... it's like a sheet of lexan bonded to and covering your wood.

Epoxy resin and the powdered fillers aren't readily available in most areas, and if you do find them on the shelf somewhere you'll pay way too much for them... but you can order them online for a very fair price from here:
Epoxy :?Epoxy Resins and Hardeners

The 635 thin with the 3:1 medium is the best all around warm weather mix, and if you want to use it in cooler weather (down to 45*F) you can use the 4:1 fast mix.

There's a link at the top of the page for the powdered fillers too. Cabosil, phenolic beads, or SM fairing compound will all work. I like the SM compound because it's light and easy to sand when filling holes and imperfections.

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

just a quick update,

well today I got my carpet/carpet glue, glad I went when I did they were having a clearance sale on it and got it for half price.... got the wood for the transom now im just waiting on my epoxy resin and new splashwell drain tubes then I can get back to work on this boat...

oh and waiting on my new saw so I can cut the transom wood... so pretty much at a stand still right now...lol at least I can trace my transom onto the new wood so when the saw gets here im ready to go.


bass

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

hey all,

looks like my epoxy should be delivered tomorrow.... and was just thinking about how to go about things and realized im not sure how many coats of epoxy to put on the transom and deck wood ??

also when pre drilling my transom is it better to drill the holes (drain holes/bolt holes) in each 3/4 piece of plywood before I glue them together or after ?

and if anyone has something im missing please feel free to chime in and remind me to do it

and a side note my new double cut saw came on Saturday so cant wait to try it out and see how well it cuts wood and aluminum.... and I had to get a new compressor since my old one is dying so got one from menards, normal price $129.99 on sale for $64.99 2.5 hp 6 gallon with oil pump....wow great deal..... thanks menards.


bass

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

I like 4 coats of epoxy on my wood, but 3 is ok and I don't feel protected enough with just 2.

Glue your transom together and cut/drill after the adhesive has cured, much easier.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

Glue it up first. Cut it out and do a dry fit and mark your holes and then do them. 2-3 coats should be plenty. Make sure and pay attention to the edges.

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

thanks for the help guys,

im looking forward to getting this project going again..... looks like now im just waiting on my 2 new drain tubes and my rear light fixture.. as long as my epxy makes it tomorrow.

any tricks to lining up the holes when drilling them in the new transom ? (angle and such )


bass

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

quick update,

the transom is cut (well mostly cut lol) I made all my cuts and screwed the transom together and tried to dry fit it.... its about 1 inch to tall..... just my luck .. well went to cut the bottom off and my saw battery is dead put it on the charger and 3 hours later back to the garage insert battery still dead my charger broke...... grab the circular saw, damn the blade is so dull it just burns the wood and wont cut ..... I quit for the day

oh and I learned I cant cut a straight line for the life of me....

epoxy made it here and the drain tubes and light fixture will be here tomorrow.

another trip to the store for a new blade then back to work tomorrow.


bass

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

ok transom is all cut and dry fit a couple of times to make sure it fits right and now its all glued and then screwed together like woodonglass suggested..... using a lot of titebond glue and screws about every4 - 6 inches apart...

now a couple more questions for all you smart boat builders ..... 1= once the glue is dry do I need to sand down the edges where the glue dripped out when I screwed the 2 pieces together ? or will the epoxy cover/stick to it ?

2= when I cut my drain tube holes and drill the screw holes do I cut/drill straight ? or will I have to drill them at an angle ?

thanks again for all the help.


bass

 

[jigngrub]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

Clean up the glue on the edges so the sealer can penetrate.

Dill the holes square with the transom.

 

[bassmanhb]

Re: *new title* hole repair and new floor and decking

hi all,

well made alittle more progress on the boat.... first picture = the new transom is in with 4 coats of epoxy on each side and
3m 5200 on/in all the bolt holes. decided to not paint it since it will be completely covered once splashwell and cap go on....

second picture is the patch I made and put over the hole from the seat post.... 3 closed end blind rivets and a bunch of 3m 5200 here also.... not pretty but it should never leak again...... plus it will be under the floor and never seen...

next step will be to finish putting the splashwell in then painting on the gluvit in all the seams and rivets... will post more pics once I get going on it...

now a quick trip to get some bolts that I thought I could reuse but now find I cant ....


bass