1989 Trophy 170 Budget Build

[Watermann]

You have to seal the wood. Helmsman Spar is what most of us use in the formula... I've gone to painting the transom and the inner Al transom skin it sits against. I use an oil based poly alkyd primer and then the same in a tractor / industrial paint on the wood and the base AL gets cleaned well, self etch primer and then paint.

On the windshield weather strip, yeah that's what I used on my SS between the bottom frame and console. If yours was a vinyl piece I don't know where a replacement would be, most of us in the Starcraft world improvise as the old stuff is NLA. EPDM rubber seal I posted worked for me.

Vinyl rubrail insert, do you have a piece of your old one to compare? We old Starcraft guys buy ours from Wefco Rubber. 0101G is our SC profile, be sure if you find the correct profile to add it to your thread here so the next guys know what fits for sure.

http://www.wefcorubber.com/PDF/marine/Rub-Rail Inserts.pdf

 

[ezmobee]

I used exterior grade plywood for my deck and transom. Arauco brand exterior plywood is nice if you can find it. I sealed mine with epoxy from Clark Craft. 1:1 mixing ratio made that real easy.

 

[Patfromny]

My epoxy was 3:1 I think but I bought the pumps to make it simple. Worked out great for me. Not sure if I can post the name of the epoxy I used. I believe iboats sells epoxy now and you get a 5% discount for being a forum member. It's nice to buy from here when you can. They give us this forum for free. I think that is enough reason to shop here first.

 

[axlr8]

Ok so from what I am hearing is that I can choose any decent grade/quality of exterior ply and make my transom laminated with Titebond III, and seal it with a sealer, I will have a good solid transom.

I would be doing the floor as well with the same method, but I'm unsure of what thickness plywood I want to use on the floor as of right now... I was thinking 5/8 or 3/4. I want it to be solid with no chance of bouncing or flexing.

I plan to use the poor mans sealer that was listed above. It seems like the epoxy, while a very good product, is intended more for use with fiberglass and overlayment of something. And from the looks, it is slightly out of my price range.

One thing I was curious about was what to do for the gunwhale carpeting.. How can I order it and have it produced in one solid piece with no seams? I worry that if I do any cut seams that I will be able to notice it and it will look bad. I assume alumacraft originally used a piece the size of the whole boat and cut the left overs to fit the boat floor... I want to do the marine vinyl on the floor and carpet on the gunwhales.. Im just looking for opinions on what my best way to go about the carpet is.

Im still researching the windshield screw cover, and hoping I can find something that works. It would help if the boat was here so I could go look at who originally produced my windsheild... but I can wait a few days and look at it when I get a chance. Im really hoping that I can tighten the existing windshield up and eliminate all of the slop that is present, but we will see what happens.

Is there anywhere that you guys know that sells boat wiring harnesses?? I would like to re do the wiring while I have the boat apart, and do it correctly with fuses and the right size wire. I plan to buy a new lead for the motor controls so I can trust that everything is trustworthy and wired correctly. Im essentially looking for a harness that has nav lights, bilge, livewell, interior lights, and supplies a few auxilary power for my radio and a few depthfinders/other accessories.

Thank you guys for all of the wonderful help thus far. It really is nice to get multiple consistant opinions on things. I want to dive head first into this boat and have it done right, but I want to make sure that my idea of 'right' is the same as you guys' idea of right. I would rather only have to tear the boat apart one time!

 

[Woodonglass]

If you choose to use the Old Timers Sealant it is imperative that you soak the edges of the plywood extremely well. You must also make sure to apply 2-3 full strength coats of the Poly or Spar varnish to finish it. They DO make Ext. Grade Polyurethane its called Spar Urethane instead of Spar Varnish. Either will work. You also need to let it dry for a minimum of 48 hours before painting it or laying carpet.

 

[Patfromny]

I would forgo the carpet and just paint the gunnels. If you want the carpet back than go to the box store and buy a length of indoor/outdoor carpet. They sell it in widths wide enough to reach both sides of the boat. It won't be a fun process but you could rough cut the carpet and then lay it on the boat to finish trim it. I'm sure you could get it in black or grey at most stores. Grey would be my choice. It goes with just about every color. Use the inside scrap piece to do the floor like you eluded to above. I'm not sure how cheap the stuff is but I can't see it breaking the bank. I am a fan of the nautilux vinyl flooring for a boat. Carpet gets wet and stays wet, not something I'd want on my boat. Your choice though, plenty of boats have carpet out there. Epoxy is great for an aluminum boat and is different than the resin they use with fiberglass Matt. It is cost prohibitive though so Woods "Old timers" formula sounds to me like a good alternative. You might even want to take Watermans advice and paint the wood after treating with sealer. Especially if the transom wood is exposed like on a Starcraft. once you start ripping into the transom repair you will realize that you don't want to do this again. A few coats of paint on top of the sealer will most probably give you a few more years of protection from rot. At this stage of the rebuild I think it's good to listen to as many opinions as you can and think through which ones you think will work for you. I always plan a ton and try to learn as much as possible about something before diving in. It makes the actual work easier when you know what to expect going in and what you are going to do once there. Read through some of Watermans build threads. He has done some fine, top notch work on his boats plus he shows the good and bad of most of this aluminium boat building stuff. He's a good guy to have reading along on your thread.

 

[ezmobee]

I put 3/4" floors in both the restores I did. I really like how rock solid they are. It can mess up your windshield/console alignments though so have a plan ready to deal with that. The original is probably 1/2 or 5/8.

Are you talking about carpet on top of the gunnels? of for the vertical side panel? I friggin' hate carpet up on top. Seems like the worst idea ever.

I doubt there's any such thing as a boat wiring harness. Boats are pretty simple to wire. Kinda like a small model train layout. I used this fuse panel http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...96247055--session_id.695389301--view_id.38108

 

[axlr8]

ezmobee, I am talking about up top on the gunnels... Just like the boat came from the factory. I am definitely open to new suggestions as far as what to do there... I just want something anti-slip that wears well. I liked the carpet there because it covers all the holes and odd things that were installed by the previous owners.

I will do some shopping on sealants and see what I come up with. I want something affordable, that does the job... (dont we all...)

I looked around for a few different wiring sets for boats and came up with nothing special. I have no problem wiring things, but I absolutely hate having to sort through 50 of the same colored wires to find the one that I am looking for. Is there a place I can buy 50 or so lengths of bundled wire?? I have no clue if that is even a thing, but I will look and see what I come up with...

 

[ezmobee]

Check out this place http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/

I had lots of holes in my gunnel tops as well. Little squares of aluminum flashing with JB Weld slathered on them applied from underneath and sanded smooth makes short work of them.

 

[Watermann]

Take a look at the pic I posted above of the weatherstrip for an alternative to carpet on the gunnels and bow cover. The finish is oil based alkyd industrial paint with catalyst hardener and Epihanies poly beads mixed in for non-skid.

Here's another pic down the gunnel.

 

[Patfromny]

^^^^^ That's what I would do instead of the carpet. It looks cool too. You probably wouldn't have to get the hole repairs perfect either if you use that idea. I forgot about that WM. I would have suggested that right off the bat. Nice sunflowers BTW. lol

 

[Watermann]

Repairs for the gunnel holes is easy, I started using JB water weld because it so much easier to work with and sand. Being a 2 part stick it's solid enough to make a wad to force into the hole from below and leave a mushroom buck tail on the underside.about the size of a nickle then sand the topside smooth. No need for a backer plate to hold that runny stuff in place. The JB WW is easy to sand and the repair is plenty tuff as I've tested it out with a hammer. Another thing is to use some course sandpaper on the underside on the gunnel to skuff up the AL around the hole so the JB has more to hang onto.

 

[axlr8]

I am not 100% opposed to doing something like the textured paint above, are there any other awesome ideas to choose from?? Im just starting to price materials for the transom and floors. Im looking at about $32.00 per 4x8 sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood (transom), $26.00 per sheet 4x8 for 5/8 exterior (Floors), $30 for a gallon of the Helmsman urethane, and about $50 worth of hardware, glue, and other materials. I want to get the transom completely installed and finished before I start to rough in the floors and nautolex.

I thought about just applying the nautolex to the gunnels as well just to make the floor match them, but I assume there will be a TON of waste if that is how I go about doing this. And with trying to make this an affordable build, waste= expense not needed.

I have not done anything else with the boat/motor since the last time I was on here, I am waiting on funds for the materials and parts. Working a full time job and going to school sure do not give up much free time to play with toys! But hopefully my Christmas break gives me some free time to play with it and hopefully get something accomplished.

I have some trim samples on the way for the windshield and for the rub rail. That seems to be the biggest issue that I have run into yet. Other than the flippin holes that the P/O cut in the otherwise perfect consoles...

Seeing that there are a multitude of holes in the hull and things that I want to permanently seal, I have convinced myself after countless searches that Im going to be shopping for a TIG welder to start doing my own aluminum repairs with. The local shop has an hourly shop charge of $125, and the aluminum specialist is almost 90 years old... the repairs I want done to this boat would set me back about $3,000 after tax. I have been in the market for a good and affordable TIG machine for a few years, and I have my eyes dialled in on one that is well known and even better backed by a lot of reputable welder's opinions. It sells for around $750 to my door. So I am selling off a few unused toys and building up some funds to make the purchase. Hoping to have that setup before the end of February and be good at using the new setup too!

 

[Watermann]

Your options for covering the gunnels are limited by materials that will hold up, are easy to work with and expense is always a factor. Your a ways from putting anything back on, after gutting, there's a ton of cleaning and repairing which can take quite a bit of time on some boats. Have you been able to tell if the flotation foam is soggy?

Most of us around here are not a big fan of welding on our tin boats, it could be due to lack of experience, the cost of the equipment and the potential for serious issues caused by the heat of welding AL. I've seen some seriously warped AL after guys have tried welding their boats. Then there's the seam sealer material that can smoke out. Personally speaking it's risky business for a noob AL welder tackling something as thin as a boat hull and then there's the difficulty of filling holes. It makes me cringe at the thought of the outcome if I were to attempt it. Smoothing out the weld is also a chore as to not remove too much surrounding AL.

 

[shark1600]

Nice find, we have a 1985 Alumacraft Trophy 175, 90 HP VRO Evinrude on it, really like it.

 

[Patfromny]

Have you welded aluminium before? if you know your way around a welder it could be a nice side business for a student. If the unit you have your eye on is portable you could be the traveling welder. Not a bad way to make money for the boat. It's nice when things pay for themselves quickly too.

 

[Teamster]

Your options for covering the gunnels are limited by materials that will hold up, are easy to work with and expense is always a factor. Your a ways from putting anything back on, after gutting, there's a ton of cleaning and repairing which can take quite a bit of time on some boats. Have you been able to tell if the flotation foam is soggy?

Most of us around here are not a big fan of welding on our tin boats, it could be due to lack of experience, the cost of the equipment and the potential for serious issues caused by the heat of welding AL. I've seen some seriously warped AL after guys have tried welding their boats. Then there's the seam sealer material that can smoke out. Personally speaking it's risky business for a noob AL welder tackling something as thin as a boat hull and then there's the difficulty of filling holes. It makes me cringe at the thought of the outcome if I were to attempt it. Smoothing out the weld is also a chore as to not remove too much surrounding AL.

Watermann said what I was thinking,...

If it were a heavy thick aluminum plate boat like they run out west welding is the answer,..

On a riveted boat I wouldn't weld,.....

How about some pictures of the things you think need welding??

 

[axlr8]

Watermann and Teamster, I understand your concerns with issues with welding. And I for the most part agree with you that it can be an un-needed hassle that is able to cause issues more than help. A few years ago in high school, I graduated top of my class in nearly every single hands-on and shop class that I was a part of. I took welding as soon as I could, and it paid off. After 2 full years of learning about the processes and being able to go try and fail at multiple things, I learned alot about the so called "art" of welding. I was intrigued enough that after high school and before going into further education, I signed onto work with a company out of South Central MN that specializes in grain structure erection and anything related to it. There I spent my summer and a whole year following that doing heaps of structural welding and fabrication. Always learning something new, and always wanting to try something else. That job has since passed and I still have the passion to dabble once in a while when I have a chance.

Back to the boat: Now saying the above, I have full faith that if I can get myself dialed in to the point that I feel comfortable welding aluminum in the hull thickness of my boat and thinner, I think I would be comfortable enough to do some repairs on my own hull. Now in no way am I going to say that what I would like welded is going to turn into 'needs to be welded,' I still have not been able to tear into the boat far enough to see the inside of the areas I would like to repair. So until that is completed, I think I will just stick to thinking on what to do in the short future of the build rather than thinking about putting the finishing touches on her.

PatfromNY: I've got loads of experience on steel, Tig, Mig, Fluxcore, Oxy fuel, and stick welding, but the only real experience that I have welding aluminum is with a spoolgun. I feel that with a few free nights and some scrap material, that I could easily get some good experience.

Back to the gunnel topic and this is directed at Watermann, I see that you noted a type of paint that you used and added poly beads to, is there any reason that I cannot use rustoleum paint of the same type that you did and add the beads to it? I would like to buy a quart of rustoleum and just give it a test run on some scrap material to see if that is a texture that I would like to have on my boat. And for the beads, did you mix them into the paint and roll it on? Or how did you go about applying it? One of my main concerns is that the carpet that is on there is adhered with some serious carpet adhesive and I would rather not battle with that crap any more than need be. I did not try to remove any, but it is still holding that 27 year old carpet onto the gunnels VERY well...

 

[ezmobee]

People have added texture to Rustoleum numerous time on this site for floors and such and it works fine.

 

[Watermann]

The rustoleum pro is the same type of paint I used and will work just as well with catalyst hardener and the poly beads. You mix the beads in the paint and allow time for them to soak up the paint about 15 -20 min and roll it on. The beads are sort of spendy for what you get but in the little container they look like powdered sugar and go a long ways depending on your preference on the non skid texture. 2 containers of beads were more than enough for me to coat the bow deck, gunnels, splashwell wings and tops of the consoles.

I have a little experience with removing old baked on carpet adhesive, my SS was drenched in that stuff. I used Klean strip adhesive remover, pressure washer and lots of elbow grease.

Just to give you some perspective on how bad glue mess can be.