Your Worst Nightmare.-

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
When removing extremely seized salted powerhead's bolts, which would be your worst nightmare :

A: Break the bolt's head.
B: Strip the powerhead's bolts threads.

How will you fix the issue if being in situation A or B ?

Happy Boating
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,082
When removing extremely seized salted powerhead's bolts, which would be your worst nightmare :

A: Break the bolt's head.
B: Strip the powerhead's bolts threads.

How will you fix the issue if being in situation A or B ?

Happy Boating
Both are easy fixes for someone with experience
Worst nightmare is "shade tree" breaking off a tap or drill off while trying to remove them.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,585
When removing extremely seized salted powerhead's bolts, which would be your worst nightmare :

A: Break the bolt's head.
B: Strip the powerhead's bolts threads.

How will you fix the issue if being in situation A or B ?

Happy Boating
the owner come in and catches me drinking his beer.......

seriously, if it was a common motor, i would not deal with an extremely seized salted powerhead, I would buy a fresh water motor

however if it was rare, and i mean rare. and someone came to me to fix. I would use heat (a good tip) , a mix of ATF and acetone and alternate while smacking each bolt with a hammer to break them loose. I would do this for about a week before I attempt to turn the bolt. At that point if I broke a bolt head, I would deal with it after I removed what was bolted to give me access with a torch or other tools of destruction. If I striped a hole, I would simply drill for a helicoil.

however it would have to be rare like a KG7 group B racing lower with a real history or something like that.
 

KJM

Lieutenant
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Jul 31, 2016
Messages
1,266
the owner come in and catches me drinking his beer.......

seriously, if it was a common motor, i would not deal with an extremely seized salted powerhead, I would buy a fresh water motor

however if it was rare, and i mean rare. and someone came to me to fix. I would use heat (a good tip) , a mix of ATF and acetone and alternate while smacking each bolt with a hammer to break them loose. I would do this for about a week before I attempt to turn the bolt. At that point if I broke a bolt head, I would deal with it after I removed what was bolted to give me access with a torch or other tools of destruction. If I striped a hole, I would simply drill for a helicoil.

however it would have to be rare like a KG7 group B racing lower with a real history or something like that.
Dumb question but what is ATF?
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,687
Auto transmission fluid. I have an oil can filled with 50/50 atf & acetone.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,835
Worst nightmare is working on ---" saltwater "----motors.-------There are procedures to remove bolts periodically and coat them with a sealant.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Messages
49,585
Dumb question but what is ATF?
Before PB Blaster and Kroil, grey beard mechanics mic 50% acetone and 50% ATF (automatic transmission fluid). The best penetrating oil that exists
 
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Bondo

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Worst nightmare is working on ---" saltwater "----motors.-------There are procedures to remove bolts periodically and coat them with a sealant.
Ayuh,..... Agreed,.... The best defense is a good offence,.....

If the bolts are coated with perfect seal, you won't have the problem of corroded bolts,......

Don S taught me that trick,.....
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,687
Definitely these will all work:
Evinrude gasket sealer
Merc Perfect Seal
Permatex Aviation
I have used mostly the Evinrude stuff on my outdrive bolts and this thing has been in salt water for 6 months a year, for at least 16 seasons. The bolts that I used it on all come out.
When I did my top end overhaul, the engine was used in salt about 15 years straight by then. Raw water cooled. The head bolts would NOT BUDGE even with a 1/2" drive long handled ratchet. So I made the sign of the cross and broke out the 1/2" drive De Walt electric impact. Worked great did not break one or strip one. I think cast iron is more forgiving though.
 

JimS123

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
8,165
Worst nightmare is working on ---" saltwater "----motors.-------There are procedures to remove bolts periodically and coat them with a sealant.
I gave up a six figure job because my boat would have had to go to a saltwater area. My buddy coworker went and all he had were nightmares.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,906
Apparently, no one here has had to remove a V4/6 powerhead as they grow together at adapter plate. No amount of heat or penetrating fluid works. Only way is to drill thru adapter at top cutting the bolt in half and if driveshaft froze in cranksplines cutting a hole in midsection and torching the DS in half. This is why I stay away from the salty dogs and send em down the road to be somebody else's headache. No $$ to be made on em. Customers buy em on the coast cheap and bring em inland. A dealer friend in LA said when they get one, they just unbolt it and slap a new motor on as to not worth wasting customers $$ on repairs, then they are sent to recycler.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,835
A few shops I know (all freshwater motors ) do not do any rebuilding anymore.-----Labor charges add up too quick.----Electronic parts / sensors must be checked as well.-----All takes too much time.-----Customers do not want to wait.
 

ahicks

Captain
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Sep 16, 2013
Messages
3,957
I work on a lot of "salties". When it comes to head bolts, I'm an impact wrench fan here as well. I generally start at about half of full power and let them rattle for a few seconds. If they refuse, I'll keep turning up the power until SOMETHING lets go.

I used to mess with trying to save blocks where the threads came out with the head bolt, or in cases where the bolt breaks. I've seen them stick to the heads well enough where the head breaks off! Getting that head removed from the block is going to take some patience.....

Any more I just replace the block. The engines I work on generally have plenty of used ones available and the prices of them make that a proper call.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
To avoid breaking salt seized factory delivered bolts, now installing next hardened, superior quality ones. Tohatsu and other motor brands OEM bolts are very light and will go that route when removed. Preffer a zillion times to strip the block's threads and install convenient to me Time-Serts afterwards...

Happy Boating
 
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