This is a new boat to me, and I've been going through all the fuel system components (low pressure side) and resolved a previous problem with rough running and cut-out at WOT by replacing all the LP fuel pumps, cleaning and replacing the VST tank and filter, replacing all the fuel filters, etc. I also had my mechanic check for trouble codes being generated while in a test tank (none) and use Yamaha test harnesses to adjust TPS and to test O2 sensor after cleaning it and the dip tube. He also put in a new set of NGK plugs, recommending one heat range higher. He also found that the oil control rod linkage clip had been broken and then re-inserted in a "jerry rig" fashion causing it to "oil at double what it should" at idle. It was repaired with a new clip and re-adjusted. This cleared up a very smoky and rough idle problem as well.
The motor idles too high - around 900 to 1,100 even when warm, but according to mechanic, sensors are all within spec, TPS voltage/setting is correct. Taking his word for it, I should just be able to adjust the idle per the manual section 3-6.
All seemed to be running well, and we took her on her first "big" trip - a 90 mile round trip to our local islands and back. The ride out was rough, but we managed about 15 to 20 knots most of the way, turning about 4200 to 4600 rpms, IIRC and burning about 12 gph to 15 gph.
On the way home we made very good speed - about 22 to 26 kts turning about 4600 to 4900 rpms and burning about 13 gph to 18 gph.
My partner was driving and I was relaxing with a beer when I heard the engine alarm go off. I jumped up, looked at the gauge and saw both triangles blinking over the red "window" and yellow "oil can" icons. "SHUT IT OFF!" I yelled, knowing that this meant the main oil tank was empty and the reserve tank was low! Sure enough, even though it was absolutely full when we started, the remote tank was EMPTY (I admonished my partner about watching the gauges while underway!). We had burned about 50 gallons at this point according to the flo scan, which would mean about 25:1 gas to oil ratio (even more since the remote tank was 1/2 empty).
Luckily we had a couple of quarts on board to top it up so we made it back home the remaining 10 miles or so.
The next day, I popped the cover to check and see if the oil control rod had come loose or there was a problem with the clip. I didn't see anything obvious.
Based on my research here on the forum, I'm planning to run through the following test protocol to see what is going on - can you tell me if I am on the right track?
1. Pull the plugs and see if #5 & #6 are excessively fouled, indicating a leaky oil pump shaft seal (I assume #5 & #6 are the bottom-most cylinders?)
2. Drain engine oil tank, check water trap. Strain oil in painter's filter & look for suspended "goo", gel, or emulsion that could be fouling the oil pump (if found, remove, clean & reinstall both engine and remote oil tank).
3. Check tach/alarm operation and transfer rate by turning on key and timing out 180 seconds to make sure I get: audible alarm, 3 blinking triangles, remote tank just above 1/2 full.
4. Check oil control linkage and ensure proper gap (.005-.04.) and make sure it is not bent (either of these would indicate a failure on the part of my mechanic, since I was billed for them to conduct this step)
5. Adjust idle
6. (???) Should I hit the engine with some Seafoam "deep creep" and let it sit over-night, then run it on muffs to clear out carbon deposits? I do not know the status of the engine, as I only have about 10-20 hours of run time on it since buying the boat.
Am I missing anything here? Part of my problem is that I have concerns about the mechanic's competence, but they have the test equipment and I do not, so I am taking their word for the sensors all being in spec
Thanks in advance - at $30 a gallon for Yamalube, it gets REAL expensive at 20:1 ratios, not to mention the fouling of the plugs and OX sensor.
The motor idles too high - around 900 to 1,100 even when warm, but according to mechanic, sensors are all within spec, TPS voltage/setting is correct. Taking his word for it, I should just be able to adjust the idle per the manual section 3-6.
All seemed to be running well, and we took her on her first "big" trip - a 90 mile round trip to our local islands and back. The ride out was rough, but we managed about 15 to 20 knots most of the way, turning about 4200 to 4600 rpms, IIRC and burning about 12 gph to 15 gph.
On the way home we made very good speed - about 22 to 26 kts turning about 4600 to 4900 rpms and burning about 13 gph to 18 gph.
My partner was driving and I was relaxing with a beer when I heard the engine alarm go off. I jumped up, looked at the gauge and saw both triangles blinking over the red "window" and yellow "oil can" icons. "SHUT IT OFF!" I yelled, knowing that this meant the main oil tank was empty and the reserve tank was low! Sure enough, even though it was absolutely full when we started, the remote tank was EMPTY (I admonished my partner about watching the gauges while underway!). We had burned about 50 gallons at this point according to the flo scan, which would mean about 25:1 gas to oil ratio (even more since the remote tank was 1/2 empty).
Luckily we had a couple of quarts on board to top it up so we made it back home the remaining 10 miles or so.
The next day, I popped the cover to check and see if the oil control rod had come loose or there was a problem with the clip. I didn't see anything obvious.
Based on my research here on the forum, I'm planning to run through the following test protocol to see what is going on - can you tell me if I am on the right track?
1. Pull the plugs and see if #5 & #6 are excessively fouled, indicating a leaky oil pump shaft seal (I assume #5 & #6 are the bottom-most cylinders?)
2. Drain engine oil tank, check water trap. Strain oil in painter's filter & look for suspended "goo", gel, or emulsion that could be fouling the oil pump (if found, remove, clean & reinstall both engine and remote oil tank).
3. Check tach/alarm operation and transfer rate by turning on key and timing out 180 seconds to make sure I get: audible alarm, 3 blinking triangles, remote tank just above 1/2 full.
4. Check oil control linkage and ensure proper gap (.005-.04.) and make sure it is not bent (either of these would indicate a failure on the part of my mechanic, since I was billed for them to conduct this step)
5. Adjust idle
6. (???) Should I hit the engine with some Seafoam "deep creep" and let it sit over-night, then run it on muffs to clear out carbon deposits? I do not know the status of the engine, as I only have about 10-20 hours of run time on it since buying the boat.
Am I missing anything here? Part of my problem is that I have concerns about the mechanic's competence, but they have the test equipment and I do not, so I am taking their word for the sensors all being in spec
Thanks in advance - at $30 a gallon for Yamalube, it gets REAL expensive at 20:1 ratios, not to mention the fouling of the plugs and OX sensor.
