Yamaha 200 static flush with boat in water

[bladecrasher]

We have a 2 year old 200 Yamaha on a Whaler we leave in salt water at the marina. We perform a static flush after each use using the hose connector that came with the motor, see arrows in photo attached. The plastic male hose threads seem "delicate" and the process of unscrewing, attaching the fresh water dock hose, flushing and then reassembly is a PITA given the position in the boat this is at.

An old mercury that this Yamaha replaced had a quick disconnect fitting which was much easier to use. I asked the Yamaha dealer we purchased the motor from and was told this factory setup was all there is.

Has anyone retrofitted their motors to make this process easier?

Thanks to anyone looking or responding to this post.

 

[mike_i]

I have a yamaha f150 with the same flush system. I don't know of any other system, don't drop the yellow washer.

 

[99yam40]

I would think someone could rig up something easier to get to.
quick connects for garden hoses are readily available at hardware stores

if nothing else set a Tee in and bring it out to an area easy to get to and then put a connector on and rig up a cap or plug to close it off when not flushing

 

[Sea Rider]

Assume the motor is flushed OFF, right ? if so, the down issue is that you're only partially flushing the cylinder head area as the thermostat will be closed...

Happy Boating​

 

[bladecrasher]

The Yamaha recommendation is to flush ASAP after returning to the dock when still warm and the motor in the down (running) position but off of course. Then after a few minutes tilt it up and let the fresh flow out the lower-unit. I then shut off the hose and fight with the crappy plastic hose fittings. Maybe doing this when the motor is warm addresses your valid thermostat point?

I have asked the service department at the dealer where I purchased the motor last year about using a garden hose type ball-lock snap-fitting - we'll see what they say.

My concern is that the water will be entering in a partially different direction, since when using their hose, no water enters the male threaded part and no water exists this point in the flushing process. All fresh flows into the female connector and associated "hose".

I may be over thinking this but it seems like most everyone with a boat stored in salt would be dealing with this. Yamaha could charge $200 for a $5 part and make this an option, which everyone buying a new motor would opt for. What's $200 more on a >$20,000 motor - nothing.

Thanks for the input and thoughts so far.

 

[Sea Rider]

Always flush all my motors ON along high water pressure out of the hose whether on muffs or dedicated flushing port, ensures that the thermo is conveniently opened and flush well the internal cylinder head area. Don't know if possible to open the thermo with just high water pressure out of the hose and motor OFF ?

Happy Boating​

 

[bladecrasher]

Feedback from the Yamaha dealer ... Regarding adding the quick-disconnect fitting to the static drain line:

This will not cause any issues as long as the quick disconnect has a shut off valve in the nipple when not hooked. This flush is for flushing when the motor is not being run.

Also flush the motor in the full down position. It has been found that water can get in to the lower cylinder it tipped in the upper positions.

Once done with flushing the motor, raise the motor just out of the water and then with the hose spray/flush out the exhaust area at the prop with fresh water then the motor can be raised up out of the water the rest of the way.

 

[Sea Rider]

Feedback from the Yamaha dealer ... Regarding adding the quick-disconnect fitting to the static drain line:

This will not cause any issues as long as the quick disconnect has a shut off valve in the nipple when not hooked. This flush is for flushing when the motor is not being run.

Ask the Yam dealer if the thermo will open up when flushing with motor not being run ? If that ain't happening would preffer muffs flush with motor running and thermo being open.

Happy Boating​

 

[bladecrasher]

I will ask, but using muffs when the boat is in the water at my dock seems impossible.

 

[99yam40]

I will ask, but using muffs when the boat is in the water at my dock seems impossible.

I would just follow what Yamaha says.
just because someone told you different on the web does not mean it has to be done his way

 

[Sea Rider]

I will ask, but using muffs when the boat is in the water at my dock seems impossible.

A friend of mine flushes his motor with attached muffs while at a dock, slip, simply rises his lower leg, installs the muffs with attached water hose, lowers to remain vertical, opens the faucet, starts the motor and flushes it for a good 10-15 minutes at fast idle rpm, shuts it down, raises the lower leg, removes the muffs, rinses it with fresh water and that's it. Have had thermostat failures with overheats and doesn't want to happen again...

Happy Boating
​

 

[bladecrasher]

Interesting - I never would have thought of fooling around with it that much.

Here was my question on the thermostat and the reply:
. . . . One other question comes to mind, and that is how the static water flush and the thermostat (which I am guessing the motor has) interact when the motor is not hot after just running.

When the motor is warm and we do a static flush – water I expect passed the thermostat valve since it’s open.

If the motor is cold though, will the static flush get past this thermostat valve?

If we get home late and don’t do the normal flush, cover, etc. but do that the next day – should I re-start the motor to get it warm first before flushing ?

The reply:
Flushing is with a closed thermostat, but the water is being reverse flushed through the motor. Is this perfect, no. But it is a lot better that not. Also when flushing a warm engine the thermostats will close a soon as the cold water hits the thermostats. One can use hot water to flush which will dissolve the salt faster . . .

====

So SeaRider I guess you are 100% correct. Without the muff approach the flush is not perfect unless you have hot water on the dock which I don't. I'm not willing to muff the motor at the dock, I'm barely willing to do the static flush with the factory setup which was my original post.