XR2 150HP won't rev past 3,000 RPM?

JerryTX

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Oct 1, 2012
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7
Recently picked up a Ranger 360V with a Mercury XR2 150HP (serial 0A994384).

Idle was set at the mechanic shop to 1,000RPM which he said was high but engine didn't seem to want to idle much lower than that. He was concerned lowering it much more it wouldn't stay running. Otherwise, engine idles smoothly with no misses.

When I try to plane out things get interesting. There is strong immediate power but as you approach the 3,000+ RPM range the engine starts to sputter and miss some (but keeps running). Once on plane I can normally trim up some and throttle back (about 85-90% throttle) and everything seems to be running smooth. It really reminds me of hitting the rev limiter in a car and it momentarily slowing the fuel flow.

Top speed so far has only been around 24 MPH but I think this boat/engine combo should easily be twice that. Same with the RPMs.

Things already done (I'm assuming correctly):
- Mechanic set the timing & carb sync

Things I don't think it is... (feel free to disagree but provide rationale please)
1) fuel pump ... I was messing with the fuel selector and when I turned it to off the pump basically compressed the primer bulb due to vacuum pressure; so it seems like the pump is healthy
2) spark plugs (as I just changed them)
3) prop issues (I made sure the prop nut was tight and prop is not damaged; size is appropriate for the motor/gearing)
4) clogged carbs -> the bottom one was rebuilt and I believe the other two were examined; and idle is smooth; normally idle is the hardest thing when carbs are an issue.
5) oiling issues (I premix and not using the oiling system; it's disabled)
6) overheating... the tell tale flow is strong and consistent; motor never dies at idle or long runs indicating overheating

I've heard this could a number of things I could try...
1) a faulty neutral safety switch; try disconnecting it and see if the problem goes away; apparently 3000RPM is the magic number
2) bad stator (not sure how to test this) and/or trigger
3) adjust the idle (allegedly there is only 1 screw to adjust)
4) adjust carb link (it seems like at 100% throttle the throttle plates may not be 100% open IE perpendicular to the carb) and/or turn idle down to around
5) spray fuel into the carb running WOT and see if the engine bogs or RPMS increase. If it bogs running too rich and if it picks up running too lean
6) check the plug wires for resistance (bend wires to see if resistances changes indicating worn wires)
7) ??? Other ideas?

Any thoughts of things to test/look at/how to test would be appreciated. I like to be a little more practical than just throwing parts at things.
 

GA_Boater

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May 24, 2011
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49,038
Welcome aboard.

Forget about the neutral switch - It only stop starting the motor in gear.

Start with the basics before getting carried away;

Check for spark on each cylinder.
Check compression on all cylinders.
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
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3,420
first thing you need is an OEM manual for it................ (ebay). like said comp and fire check... comp 110 or more.

Things already done (I'm assuming correctly):
- Mechanic set the timing & carb sync

4) clogged carbs -> the bottom one was rebuilt and I believe the other two were examined; and idle is smooth; normally idle is the hardest thing when carbs are an issue.
(this could be suspect) do all three.. never use same gaskets. replace with new gaskets no mater how good they look.. check floats carefully..

I've heard this could a number of things I could try...

2) bad stator (not sure how to test this) and/or trigger
this is where tha manual comes in.. testin' parts.. (this is also suspect)

3) adjust the idle (allegedly there is only 1 screw to adjust)..
this is true.. idle timing only to set idle rpm/speed.. its done after all linkage is set.. its also done with boat in tha water, (can be on tha trailer) in gear and set to what both you and tha motor are happy with.. numbers don't mater..
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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37,825
Compression test first !!----Post the numbers.----Then look for strong spark on each lead.----These motor sound nice running on 3 of 6 cylinders.
 

JerryTX

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Oct 1, 2012
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Ordered the shop manual and it said normal compression should be between 110 - 130. Port side compression was 120, 118, 115. Starboard side was similar 123, 119, and 116.

I went to check the spark etc and found out my buddy left with the opener to my detached garage so I can't get in. May put some time in over the weekend checking that and the idle stabilizer.
 

Dukedog

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Oct 6, 2009
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sounds like ya on tha right track............
trash tha idle stabilizer.. reset timin'..............
 

JerryTX

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Oct 1, 2012
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sounds like ya on tha right track............
trash tha idle stabilizer.. reset timin'..............

That's what I'm thinking the more I think about it.

I know it was tuned at the mechanic's shop not in the water; he set the idle in the water. I also need to check the trigger and make sure it moves freely.
 

JerryTX

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Oct 1, 2012
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Just an update on this if anyone ever has a similar issue...

I noticed yesterday when I took the carb cover plate off that full throttle at the control didn't open the butterflies at all so I adjusted the cable barrel to get the proper action; neutral has butterflies closed and WOT has them open fully.

I'm going back now and checking the timing because that changes the position of the throttle cam, max throttle screw, and primary screw etc.

I did check the prop hub to make sure it wasn't damaged and it wasn't.
 

Dukedog

Captain
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Oct 6, 2009
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when ya get done with all tha adjustin' be sure ya have a slight gap between throttle cam and linkage roller when at idle.. don't remember if manual tells ya that.. that is ta insure that idle timin' and idle circuit of carbs controls rpm and/or speed.. again numbers don't mean much!.. i've had production motors that liked 600/800 rpm and some hot rods that liked 1200/1400 hundred................
 
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