Wood working questions

[redneck joe]

Looking to take a bunch of 30 year old scrap pine tounge and groove (full inch not nominal) into a tablr top.

Most pieces 12 to 18 inch some 3 foot or so.

Butt ends will be put together with a biscuit and of course glue.

Think I could glue the wood to a 3/4 MDF? A bit concerned for expansion but glue should hold it?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would glue to a bit of oak plywood. Significantly stronger and more stable. I would do both faces and then rip the outside and make a perimeter

 

[redneck joe]

Yeah planning on wrapping the edge with some walnut ive got out there as well. Will be natural stain i think the contrast will look good.

Any special glue? Does the glue for wood floors allow for a bit of expansion?

 

[Scott Danforth]

not sure on the expansion. I would use tite-bond III (mainly because I have lots of it)

 

[Dubed]

Yes to Titebond 3.
I would think your problems with expansion with be on your two short end pieces as the grain will be running opposite direction. Thats why most furniture that has a picture frame type edging is a breadboard style end. I wouldnt use mitered corners, I would butt the long side to the short edge side, as the expansion/contraction will be on the width, not the length. you can glue the middle of the edge piece and use screws and plugs for the ends with an elongated hole that will allow for expansion

 

[redneck joe]

Thanks. While i was up at old man oclock i did a bunch of research and came down to a Henry or the titebond. There was another but only came in 4 gal bucket.

Yes to butt joints with no miter. Plan just to run lengthwise end to end then wrap the edges with said walnut. Since it is pine and softer I'm going to bet any can absorbed plus being glued and nailed i think it will make it. I also plan on gluing the t&g.

 

[Dubed]

Thanks. While i was up at old man oclock i did a bunch of research and came down to a Henry or the titebond. There was another but only came in 4 gal bucket.

Yes to butt joints with no miter. Plan just to run lengthwise end to end then wrap the edges with said walnut. Since it is pine and softer I'm going to bet any can absorbed plus being glued and nailed i think it will make it. I also plan on gluing the t&g.

The only other thing I would conside is doing half lap joints when butting the ends of the t&g together. This would be a better joint than a biscuit. You would have a large face grain area at the glue joints

 

[Scott Danforth]

Or a finger splice .......

 

[redneck joe]

Yeah no tools for finger and wife tells me I'm very close to my limit so I'm choosing future purchases wisly. Or planning where to hide them...

Had not thought of lap joint, isnt that for corners? I will not have any corners as all wood will be running same direction like a floor. I will be butting end grains wit two biscuits

 

[Scott Danforth]

Make a wood jig to hold the piece and use the table saw.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Butting end grain joints with biscuits will be fine. Expansion and contraction really only occurs perpendicular to the grain. If you're gluing and screwing (or nailing) pine boards to a plywood substrate (which is extremely stable), and if the pine is fully dressed with poly or a wiping oil, I can't imagine you'd have problems with the wood moving.

 

[Dubed]

Lap Joint. Glue surface will be strong. Butt joints dont take glue.

 

[Dubed]

Butting end grain joints with biscuits will be fine. Expansion and contraction really only occurs perpendicular to the grain. If you're gluing and screwing (or nailing) pine boards to a plywood substrate (which is extremely stable), and if the pine is fully dressed with poly or a wiping oil, I can't imagine you'd have problems with the wood moving.

Should be fine either way! Lap joint would eliminate cupping at the joint. But the T&G should help also

 

[redneck joe]

Ok ju st never saw of though t about on a butt. And on the t&g of course joints will be well staggerd

 

[jbcurt00]

I've made a treadle Singer sewing machine base table out of flooring lumber before, 8" cherry plank. 18" X 46" IIRC made to fit what leftovers I had from a flooring job.

Breadboard ends and laminated double thickness at the edges, no plywood backer necessary.

Titebond 3

 

[flashback]

Depending on how large the table is you may not want the visual effect of the extra backer. If it's a dining table the thickness might be desired..

 

[redneck joe]

I can cover the backer with the edge trim. Its going to be a roughly 4 x 6 kitchen island sitting on a china hutch base.