Re: Wood Vs Foam stringer question
I've read your posts on this from some other topics and it seems that you are bummin a bit and now wished you used the 4lb.
<br /><br />Is there anyway to cut some expansion joints in the foam. I got to thinking about this and using the mentality that concrete (hard like 8lb.) has expansion joints to control the expansion and contraction etc. If so, you could provide some flex in critical areas where you think you should have some. Not just a slit but ream out a 1" or so. You could then use the 2lb. (from home cheapo) to fill in the gaps (joints) so you don't "squeak" across the water. <br /><br />You could use a really long bit to route the joints. Like the kind they use to rough in plumping and electrical on homes. Just be careful to not go too deep with a cut and get into the hull, glass etc. This could be done eaisily enough with some type of homemade depth gauge. They also have long razor type knives at commercial caulk suppliers. They use these to remove glazing and caulk joints on commercial structres. Might be safer than power tools provided you have the access you need to the areas you want to "cut out" a joint or two.<br /><br />Just a thought...hey I'm I guy, we always try to come up with solutions
, ask a woman and you might get a different answer. They probably like stiff boats
! <br /><br />On the other hand, call up one of the techies from a performance boat manufacturer, Fontaine etc. Ask them about your situation, hull stiffness, flex, they might use the 8lb or harder to provide structural integrity. You may have built a damn high performance hull and don't have anything to worry about
!!!