Wobble roller placement

pastorbud

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I bought a used trailer for my 22 foot aqua sport dual console. I have a 200 horse Johnson on a rebuilt transom.

The trailer is a “self-adjusting” model built by the Long trailer company. The previous owner showed me a picture of it with a 23 footer on it.

It has 2U shaped swiveling assemblies, one fore and one aft.

Each swiveling assembly has a pair of 12 inch rollers in a swiveling frame mounted on the front of the assembly.

And each assembly also has a tree of eight wobble rollers on the back of the assembly, four rollers on the port, and four rollers on the starboard side.

I have never owned a self adjusting trailer and never set up wobble rollers, but I’ve looked at pictures of boats on trailers that have them.

i’m wondering how to know where to place the wobble rollers. They have clamps that let me adjust them to place them closer to the keel or closer to the gunnel.

I haven’t really seen any guidance in any set up instructions, other than to not place the rollers on a chine.

I basically set them up to have the inboard wobble rollers as close to the keel as possible, and the outboard rollers as close to the gunnel
as possible, without landing on a chain or a drain fitting.

Is there a better way to know where to put them?

Also, how can I know how for forward to place the front assembly? Right now it’s where it was before, with the front set of keel rollers about 6 feet off the bow.
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dingbat

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Ideally, you want the roller bunks as wide as possible for stability with rollers sitting on, or close proximity to the stringers.
 
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pastorbud

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Ideally, you want the roller bunks as wide as possible for stability with rollers sitting on, or close to, the stringers.
Thanks man. The stringer that runs fore an d aft is just outside the place where the splash well meets the transom. Sounds like I need to move the outer roller out as far as I can, then move the inner roller away from the keel and as close to the stringer as I can. I don’t think I can get it directly under it.IMG_9159.jpegIMG_9161.jpeg
 

dingbat

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Thanks man. The stringer that runs fore an d aft is just outside the place where the splash well meets the transom. Sounds like I need to move the outer roller out as far as I can, then move the inner roller away from the keel and as close to the stringer as I can. I don’t think I can get it directly under it.
Here is a picture on mine sitting on my previous trailer.
Have since gone to a drive-on aluminum trailer

Note that the rear roller bunks are wider that the front bunks do to the hull designDSC_0657mod.jpg
 

JimS123

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IMHO that trailer is totally inadequate for that boat. There are not nearly enough rollers to support the weight. Divide the total boat weight by the number of rollers. If each roller carries more than 125 pounds, you got a problem.

The last pic of the Loadrite is more like it.
 

pastorbud

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Messages
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IMHO that trailer is totally inadequate for that boat. There are not nearly enough rollers to support the weight. Divide the total boat weight by the number of rollers. If each roller carries more than 125 pounds, you got a problem.

The last pic of the Loadrite is more like it.
Hmmm…
I’ve got 20 rollers total (8 wobble and 2 keel rollers on each of two pivoting assemblies).

The Classic Aquasport site says the boat is 2200 lbs. Motor is about 520 lbs.

Comes out to 136 lbs per roller.

I know on bunk trailers the keel rollers don’t carry weight. This trailer has multiple pivot assemblies to distribute the weight between two keel rollers and eight wobble rollers. The best info I can find from trailer sites has the keel rollers rated at 400 lbs each and wobble rollers at 200 lbs each.

I do have a separate small double keel roller assembly that also pivots. I could bolt it onto a crossmember pretty easily to bring the count up to 22 rollers.
 

JimS123

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Hmmm…
I’ve got 20 rollers total (8 wobble and 2 keel rollers on each of two pivoting assemblies).

The Classic Aquasport site says the boat is 2200 lbs. Motor is about 520 lbs.

Comes out to 136 lbs per roller.

I know on bunk trailers the keel rollers don’t carry weight. This trailer has multiple pivot assemblies to distribute the weight between two keel rollers and eight wobble rollers. The best info I can find from trailer sites has the keel rollers rated at 400 lbs each and wobble rollers at 200 lbs each.

I do have a separate small double keel roller assembly that also pivots. I could bolt it onto a crossmember pretty easily to bring the count up to 22 rollers.
The picture is deceiving. The boat looks heavier than that. Even with your figures, when you add fuel and gear it comes to more like 160 pounds.
 

pastorbud

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JimS123

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Net dry weight is only one item needed to calculate gross boat weight. How big is the fuel tank? Then add the weight of the gas.
 

airshot

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What is the max capacity on that trailer ? Being a single axle, makes me wonder if the trailer can safely carry that load. I am one that goes a little overboard, with that said, I would want more rollers under that hull to support the boat providing the trailer is built to handle that load.
 

JimS123

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My boat is 2 feet shorter than the OP's, but the trailer is configured about the same. Except, my wobble roller assemblies have 8 rollers on each, not 4.

If I wiggle my rollers, I can make each one move. My hull is gently cradled.

PS - I also have a single axle trailer. Adding the spec weight of the boat and engine, plus 30 gallons of gas, plus about 300# extra for anchors, fishing supplies, beer cooler, etc., my trailer capacity is about 600# extra.
 

pastorbud

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Welp, I thought it was a 5000 lb axle but I checked the spindle and bearings and it’s only 3500. Not gonna work. Thanks folks.

Time to re-assess. I have a dual axle bunk trailer but it will need some work. The boat was towed from about 90 miles away on the dual axle trailer when I bought it. But it had some rusty cross members. I paid the guy extra to deliver it because he trusted that trailer and I didn’t. I thought I could replace it with this but I guess not. 🤷‍♂️
 
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