Wisconsin fishing boat

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CNT

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Once upon a time, I was a fisherman. We had a mobile home with riverfront. Many good memories (including I broke WI State Record of Black Crappie, yet it still hasn’t been properly documented, anyways). I had to demolish the mobile home (due to animals crawling inside). Now, my last kid is turning 18 soon. I want to go back to fishing.

We used canoes and boats, etc (nothing bigger than 16’). My favorite was the ol’ (2HP) bass tracker 2 people bass boat (really, best for one person, you know). In fact, I still have it up north in the garage (if it’s still there?). The transom is flippy, LOL.

Just few days ago, I sold my sun dolphin water tender 9’4”. I had it for a month, just to get the feeling of boating once again (in a small boat), with a 4.5HP. Now, that’s gone (nothing to talk about it, just an awkward boat to maneuver). Now, I want to carefully buy a “right” boat this time. What I mean by “right” boat?

Primarily, I am going to use the boat for fishing, in rivers, by myself. I don’t do lake fishing. So, rivers with shallow spots, tight turns, running waters, skim over logs, etc.. Yet, I want a boat to use for some recreation, include taking the wife along. That I will use on a “calm” lakes (with other boats and water skiing). Since there aren’t many places where I can physically look at small bass boats; upon online researching, I have come to this boat:

sundolphin.com/pro-120/

So, hopefully this would be something I am looking for. Yes, I have considered the aluminum jon boat and other options. If you know of something I may be interested in a similar of the Pro 120, let me know. One of the main factors of looking at boats was HP capability. I learned that from my previous 4.5HP isn’t something I want for a recreational lake trolling (other boats passing me LOL). Maybe a 5HP would be plenty for a river fishing, but maybe not for nowadays (fishing with 2HP in my childhood fishing was awesome, but now that I am grown up, I would want something with more kick to it). In a way, I probably should kept my 4.5HP (for river fishing), but it’s gone now. From looking at YouTube, 15HP seems satisfactory.

Now, to the context of the point… the Pro 120 yellow plate on the boat states 15HP. The sundolphin website says 10HP. And the manual of the boat says, no more than 8HP for 4-storke motor.

What is with 3 different HP? I could only assume it’s about the weight of the motor, but again, an assumption. I did contact the sun dolphin customer service about that, they couldn’t give me a straight answer, except “it’s what the manual says”. Even I contact Mercury Outboard (Wisconsin, where I live), they couldn’t explain that to me either. Now, let alone if a Mercury 15HP Pro Kicker (122lbs) would even be OK?

To play it safe, I guess I should look for a (Mercury) 15HP 2-stroke motor (only available as used). That would be lightest of the 15HP.

Next situation… since this Pro 120 does NOT have a helm (is that what those are called?). I am looking at building a dashboard, with a steering wheel, to control as much of the motor, such as (if possible) start key (if electric start exist), stop/kill key, F/N/R, and throttle. I would be creative, for example, with F/N/R, I could put cable there with o-ring and be able to “manually” shift the arm. Would those be legal to do that (create helm on a boat with existing helm)?

Any comments or suggestion?

I have other things to ask, but minor questions. Such I never experienced a fish finders, would it be something I should get?

Chuck
 

Scott Danforth

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first, welcome aboard

second, anything you add with regards to a remote helm, cables, etc. will subtract from the amount of stuff you can carry. at 532# of total capacity, add a motor at 60#, then add yourself and a second person (average weight is 185# - 370#), add 5 gallons of fuel and the tank 40#, add fishing gear at 40# (4 rods, two tackle boxes, a fish net), and your 20# from your max weight. just remote controls and a cable helm and steering wheel will weigh 20#. add a mounting structure and your over capacity

Third, you are looking at a blow-molded boat. basically a glorified milk jug with flotation foam. how do you intend to secure a helm to such a small boat intended to be a tiller steer only? if you intend to screw, remember, any penetration into the hull is a potential point of water to get into the foam. also, since blow molded boats have such thin skins, i doubt screws would hold for long.

4th, there are literally a few hundred thousand small aluminum boats for sale in WI, many with small consoles for much less than what you were planning on buying here.
 

CNT

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Interesting...

add 5 gallons of fuel and the tank 40#
40lbs for a 5gal of gas? Does it really weight that much? That I haven't bother to try weighting it to see. Actually, I have the 3gal tank (brand new) since I wouldn't be needing that much of a gas per day. Perhaps I should get some kind of scale and weight everything.

add fishing gear at 40# (4 rods, two tackle boxes, a fish net)
Again? I am not fishing for whales? :)

just remote controls and a cable helm and steering wheel will weigh 20#.
Looks like I need to pay attention to the "things" weights.

basically a glorified milk jug with flotation foam
That, we can agree! :)

how do you intend to secure a helm to such a small boat intended to be a tiller steer only? if you intend to screw, remember, any penetration into the hull is a potential point of water to get into the foam. also, since blow molded boats have such thin skins, i doubt screws would hold for long.
Ture. I didn't think I would need SUCH a SECURED dashboard. I would be looking for stuff to install onto, like perhaps through the oar lock holes
, etc. Part of the idea (along with make this as light as possible) is to make the dashboard (or call it helm) foldable (sort of flap it down) to swing it out of the way. But, maybe I am overthinking too much?

there are literally a few hundred thousand small aluminum boats for sale in WI, many with small consoles for much less than what you were planning on buying here.
Meaning regular
aluminum jon boats? I could get a brand new (15HP) jon boat for $500. But, I didn't think it would be worth to then convert into a bass boat (meaning slap a ply on the front half), do all the mods, where the Pro 120 is pretty much all done (but you have a point about it's a milk jug).

I thought having this kind of boat would be best for river fishing... not too heavy?
 

Scott Danforth

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Gas weights 6.82# per gallon. Add the tank and the hose, your 3 gallon tank is about 26#

Stick with a tiller
 

roscoe

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flyingscott

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Do not buy a mercury 15 hp if you are going to run rivers. The Omc motors are much better because the lower units are sooooooooooo much better. An omc 15 hp of any year has a shallowater drive set-up on it that is easy to use. A 88 or later 20/25/30/35 hp motor has the same set-up.
 

briangcc

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Again? I am not fishing for whales? :)

No but....

Your rods, reels, tackle boxes, tackle all weigh something. Plan on running sonar/GPS? That weighs something. Now how are you powering it? Is it one of those dual purpose units that can be powered either by a lantern battery or 12v deep cycle? That weighs something too.

Now add in all the required safety gear - life jacket(s), oars - you should have two for when you have a motor issue or run out of gas, anchor and rope, possibly a fire extinguisher (depending on your state requirements). It all adds up.


And before you say "I don't need oars" or "I'll just carry one" let me relate this story from this year... Boat on a small inland lake decided instead of pulling out to do a couple joy ride laps while waiting for the trailer to come for them. Last lap they vanished. Guy waiting on the ramp with the trailer calls them. Wife tells me this was the conversation right before he pulled the truck and trailer out of the way...."I can't help you now". We launched and found the two guys paddling....with a single oar...going absolutely nowhere fast. I pulled them in to the ramp after seeing they were disabled. Problem: They ran out of gas on their last lap.



You might look at the aluminum boats mentioned or a Triumph boat. They're composite and when they first came out at boat shows the dealers were handing rubber mallets to anyone walking by and allowing them to beat on these boats. Supposedly if it got marred a bit you could take a propane torch to it and get it back into form. Another option would be a Boston Whaler - I believe this is the one they chainsaw in half and it won't sink.
 

Old Ironmaker

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For what it's worth my 15HP Mercury 2 stroke weighs 100 lbs. not 122lbs. It is electric start with throttle control, F-N-R. But you won't be mounting a helm on that boat anyway. I fished many rivers here in Canada, including running rapids. The best I found for that is a 14' flatter bottom aluminum with a 25HP short shaft tiller and bow mounted 12 V electric trolling motor. The boat was a Springbok.
 

CNT

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Well... guess it's time for my responses...

Post #5, yes, that boat is a nice boat. I guess that's a good price as well (considering motor and helm included).

Post #6, OMC, meaning
Evinrude outboards? In other words, something against Mercury outboards?

Post #2 and #7, I wasn't trying to deny that things has weight, but just didn't think it would be that MUCH of a weight.

Post #8, I didn't do extensive study nor kept track of outboards history. It was to my understanding that generally 15HP 2-stroke outboards (basic manual pull-start) weights ~80lbs. Looks like that yours has those controls (such motorized tiller?), would add weight. Example, the difference between the (Mercury) 9.9HP and 9.9HP Pro Kicker, as well the 15HP and 15HP Pro Kicker, the Pro Kicker is ~20lbs heavier because the Pro Kicker has the motorized tiller and other stuff (again, as to my understanding).

While at the topic, suppose I see a 2004 Mercury 15HP 2-stroke with manual start (in good condition), how much would you pay for it?

This thread has got me into thinking twice. I was looking for a (primarily) FISHING boat, but still need somewhat a RECREATIONAL boat. I can't predict how much fishing or recreation would be, but should be more of a fishing boat. Now that said, I do walk around in the boat, so I need a floor! A jon boat has a middle bench in the way. If I could remove the middle bench, that would help a lot, and would solve my dilemma. Another thing, as seems most of here suggesting, is a bow boat ("V" hull). Those are a complete waste of front space, having to fold your leg/feet while in the front, so almost half of the boat is useless (can't even fish out from the front bow).

I was hoping to find something that manufactured boat have "solved" some of these problems, or so I thought. Would need like a FLAT floor (simply put a plywood on the floor means the ply WILL rot, water will get there). Again, with jon boats, those rows of retaining beams across the floor can not be removed (assuming those are there for strength of the boat, anti-twisting).

I went to Cabela's, I asked questions to a nice salesperson. He share with me basically common sense, not much more. Lastly, he point out that my best way to do this is get this boat "Bass Tracker Classic" as in "Limited Special Edition!" (new for 2019) for $10,995. This includes "everything" (50HP Mercury, Minn Kota 45, Lowrance, helm, etc, even including trailer). But, that's $10,000, which I don't have. Yes, such 50HP motor is nice. Yet, it goes back to "too big" for river fishing (it's a 16 footer).

Again, should I regret that I should kept the 9'4" Sun Dolphin Water Tender? I bought that in the first place thinking it would be "perfect" fishing boat, but it was kinda clumpy and awkward boat. The size would been good though. this is where I started looking at the Pro 120, seems good design (yet never tried it on water). Having to steer with a tiller isn't a problem, just that would be nice to have a steering wheel, thats all.

Back to square one, I could just buy a jon boat (flat bottom), and mod it. Then I would be wasting too much money on it.

At least I have some time to do more research or thinking. The goal is to have a boat by next spring (2020).

Sorry for such long post :D

Chuck
 

flyingscott

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I have nothing against Mercury outboards. And I would not buy an Evinrude 20/25 hp made before 1988. My primary motor on my 14" boat is a Mercury 25 hp. I do have something against the 15 hp mercury with the weak lower unit. Snapped driveshafts and bent propshafts are all to common on those motors. I run rivers in WI the Wolf and the Fox both and I have hit numerous objects and never had a problem with the OMC 15 hp motors. My mercury 15 hp bent the prop shaft once and broke the driveshaft at the pinion twice. I would not buy the mercury 15 hp again. I would buy a 1987 or later 25 hp Mercury over all those listed here. By the way my brand bias is Scott-Atwater/McCulloch motors.
 
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Scott Danforth

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not sure how a 16' boat isnt for river fishing.

grew up fishing rivers and lakes in Wisconsin, in fact, just finally have an offer on my fathers place on the Menominee river. over the decades we had Dunphy, Mirrocraft, Tracker, Avanti and countless utility v-hulls.

currently have dads old 50's vintage 14' v-hull fishing barge.

I must have spent half of my fishing at the bow of a v-hull where you say you cant fish from and have caught everything from 15" crappie to 40" walleye to a 45" northern to a 24" large mouth not to mention a whole bunch of pan-fish out of the front of a v-hull.

I suppose your going to say you cant troll for walleye from a jet ski either.....

I will say you cant stand and fly-fish from a canoe, however you can sit and fly-fish

fishing is a state of mind, its not the equipment.
 

ahicks

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And depending on if you're sitting or standing, a keen sense of balance and calm water are your friends when it comes to some boats.....

The bigger point here is that some hulls are better than others when it comes to stability while standing in front as our OP states he prefers. A narrow beam V hull can be a lot like a canoe from a "tippy" standpoint while standing in front, just a little less likely to go all the way over. If you are shopping for a boat that will allow you to stand in front, the better plan is to look for a boat with a wide beam. Lacking that, a flat (or nearly flat) bottoms are the better plan.
 
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CNT

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I contact the seller of the 16ft Lund. He had one interested before me and that person said he won't buy it unless he has the title. So, he is going to look into obtaining the title (or make a new title). In mean time, he will let me know the progress (if the boat is sold or not).

As we talked, he mention that the rear floor (plywood) is rot (the seat is loose). And there are some things that needs to be fixed. He couldn't get the gas line attach, so what he did was put gas in the spark plug, and it starts, that's all. He realize he doesn't have the time to do some major repairs. He has not even test it on the water.

So, is it still worth it? I can fix things, but buying new parts may add up the cost.
 

roscoe

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The boat itself is worth nothing if title is not in the sellers name.
If its not in his name, he has no legal right to sell it.


Sounds like the seller is pretty unprepared to sell the boat, and pretty inept if he can't attach a fuel line.

If the engine runs and title is provided, probably worth $3500
 

ahicks

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I thought titles were mandantory as well. What I found out though, is that's not always the case. I bought a similar boat in Mi this summer (16.5' Sea Nymph w/side console), and learned that although bigger boats are titled, an outboard boat like this a title is optional. In Mi. anyway.

Point being, if you like the boat, check with the authorities to see what is required when transferring ownership. In MI. it's just a signed registration and bill of sale.
 

Scott Danforth

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If I recall, Wisconsin is a registration only for 16' and below and title for above 16'
 
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