Wiring running lights to a 3 position SPDT Cole Hersee push pull switch

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59seaskiff

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I have purchased a new SPDT push/pull switch for my running lights, which consist simply of a single red/green bow light and a 360 degree pole light on the stern. The problem is there is no diagram that comes with this new switch, not even a diagram identifying the four connection points on the switch itself. I have searched online and found no help with a wiring diagram that might help. Even after using a meter on the contacts, I cannot find a solution that works. I simply want the off/on/on sequence to work as it should (off: anchor light on while bow light is off; anchor light on while bow light is on). Can someone help me with this issue?
 

alldodge

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You can wire with or with out a diode. I like without a diode

Without diode needs two jumper wires
NavSwitchWiring DPDT.jpg

With Diode
NavSwitch w diode.jpg
 

59seaskiff

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AllDodge:
This may be a stupid question, but how do I tell which terminal is which on the Cole Hersee 4- terminal push/pull switch (not a 6-terminal toggle switch as shown in drawing)? And will I still need two jumper cables?
 

alldodge

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If you have a switch like Grandad posted cole herses.jpg


Then the connection is listed at the upper left corner. I don't see how this will work as listed unless there is another switch which controls power to it. I just don't see enough connections. Not saying it won't work, just don't see it in my pea brain right now.

Oh and just noticed you said SPDT (single pole double throw) which means you can only use the one with the diode
 
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Grandad

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The switch contacts actually slide together using an elongated contact from "B" that stays connected positive. So all the way in nothing interconnects, pulling a short distance slides "B" and "R" together, pulling further connects "B", "R" and "H" together. Not sure when accessory "A" connects or for what purpose. The original switches in my '72 Starcraft are of this general design. These switches seem a little primitive and pricey but when mine failed to work, I was able to pry open the back to clean and lubricate the contact mechanism which now works flawlessly. Try that with any other type of switch construction. - Grandad
 

59seaskiff

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Thanks for the drawing guys. Yes, I have exactly this switch. OK -Prior to receiving this legend of pole assignments on the Cole Hersee drawing, here's what I have tried: With R = power, H = Bowlight, B = Anchor light, and a jumper from A to B, the switch functions as desired - BUT - there is obviously still something wrong because the anchor light is operating only dimly.

So today, I will use the legend on the Cole Hersee chart (which I agree does not appear to have enough connections to power to make it work), and modify it by jumpering B (power) to A (now reserved for accessories). Then we will see if that works. (My prediction is it will still operate dimly - no different than the current trial.) If it doesn't, then perhaps I have to try a diode, but need help (using the Cole Hersee scheme) with where to put the diode. More later after I have tried the plan above without it!

Any other input on this would be very much appreciated! I am NOT an electrical guy - only thinking using logic here.
 

jhebert

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I have searched online and found no help with a wiring diagram that might help.

No jumpers are needed at the switch. Ignore the earlier recommended wiring for conventional toggle switches. It has no application with the COLE-HERSEE. These are specialized switches with specialized switch action.

The wiring of the COLE-HERSEE switches is explained in detail at

http://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=849

Most likely the section you will find helpful is under the heading "[FONT=&quot]M532 SWITCH for NAVIGATION LIGHTING with COMBINED SIDELIGHT and WHITE ALL-ROUND LAMP"[/FONT]
 
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alldodge

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anchor light is operating only dimly

This issue is not with the switch, its with the light or wiring feeding the light. Check for corrosion at the light and the ground
 

59seaskiff

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AllDodge -
Thanks but it's a new light with new wire, and it works brightly if I omit the switch. What then?
 

alldodge

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AllDodge -
Thanks but it's a new light with new wire, and it works brightly if I omit the switch. What then?

Has to be something else going on, the switch just connects wires together like if you twisted them together
 

Grandad

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AllDodge -
Thanks but it's a new light with new wire, and it works brightly if I omit the switch. What then?

OK, assuming you've correctly connected the circuit and you omitted the switch by jumpering directly at the switch making the bulb brighter, you could assume that the switch has dirty contact points. These slider switches don't have a strong snap action spring mechanism and can develop poor contact surfaces if not used regularly which keeps the contact points clean. I'd suggest before going further that you exercise the switch by sliding it on and off a couple of dozen times to see if the contacts self clean and the bulb brightens. These switches don't have any internal resistance other than from corrosion/contamination. - Grandad
 

jhebert

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JHebert -
Thanks for the website! Seems pretty clear here - will try it!


You are welcome. The information I have pointed you to

http://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=849

will enable you to correctly wire the combined sidelights lamp and white all-round lamp to the COLE-HERSEE M532 switch.

You can also find more helpful information on the COLE-HERSEE M532 switch as used to control navigation lighting at

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ghtSwitch.html
 
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DanoGeorge

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Thanks for the drawing guys. Yes, I have exactly this switch. OK -Prior to receiving this legend of pole assignments on the Cole Hersee drawing, here's what I have tried: With R = power, H = Bowlight, B = Anchor light, and a jumper from A to B, the switch functions as desired - BUT - there is obviously still something wrong because the anchor light is operating only dimly.

So today, I will use the legend on the Cole Hersee chart (which I agree does not appear to have enough connections to power to make it work), and modify it by jumpering B (power) to A (now reserved for accessories). Then we will see if that works. (My prediction is it will still operate dimly - no different than the current automatic essay typer trial.) If it doesn't, then perhaps I have to try a diode, but need help (using the Cole Hersee scheme) with where to put the diode. More later after I have tried the plan above without it!

Any other input on this would be very much appreciated! I am NOT an electrical guy - only thinking using logic here.

Hello,

Have you tried a diode? If yes, could you please share your experience? You may download the spec sheets for practically all products on ElecDirect, by the way. I got my Cole Hersee 4-terminal push/pull switch there too.
 
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