Wiring question at the motor -- 94' Merc 4.3 - disconnected wires

[Fun Times]

have I done damage to my setup by running it twice with the drive not all the way down? Each time it did not run for long, certainly not long enough to get the motor hot.

While you most probable didn't do any real damage by running it with the drive up as more boat owners do it with knowing the potential harm it may cause over time, it's just real good practice to get in the habit to always lower the drive as much as possible when starting/running the engine....That mentioned it's also good practice to start to raise the drive up to near full trim (not necessarily full trailer) as you approach driving the boat onto a trailer and/or approach a sandy beach to help avoid sucking up pure sand into the cooling system... Should the beach be really Shallow + Sandy then there are times you may have to use the trailer button to near full up as you slowly approach the beach at slow idle speeds in which case you'll be okay to do just try to keep the steering straight only if possible to help avoid extra stress on the U-joints.

My concern additionally, is I know I can lower the drive down, but as we've discussed, it doesn't appear at least initially to want to go back up.

With the drive where it's at right now, does the trim pump motor seem to activate and sound like there is a heavy load on the trim pump hydraulic system while pushing the trailer button?

...I may also add... I did not put it in gear. Not sure if that is relevant information

No not really due to the U-joints are always turning while the engine is running even when it's not in gear as the gear shifting happens in the lower gear case unit on an Alpha style stern drive.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

First, make sure there is fluid in the trim reservoir. "SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil can be used in system, if Quicksilver Power Trim and steering fluid is not available. " ---

Then do this..
http://www.amarket.com/chektrm.htm

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

Hello, so I took yall's good advice and put it to use today with positive results:

1.) I took a much closer look at how the trim works. I discovered that primarily I am an idiot. I grew up with an outboard Grady White and the trim operates on it a little different than these I/O platforms. The trim up DOES work, but I was surprised at what point it cuts off and you have to use the trailer button. My trim works perfectly, I think. The wiring to it is a different story... I did source the wires and they are the wires you guys identified. I do not know why, or how exactly the previous owner bypassed them from the gauge. I really would like all my gauges to work - right now I don't think any of them really do.

2.) I was able to adjust the button for the throttle so it now functions a lot more smoothly. I started the boat with some throttle and it fired right up. The thing clearly hasn't been run in a long time. It was smoking pretty bad. I didn't let it get fully warmed up, but when I kept the throttle on it, it ran without issue. When I did pull it back to its neutral setting the boat wouldn't really idle. I am not sure if that may be because it is a mechanical choke and it was not warmed up, mixed with the fact that it hasn't been run in a long time? I pulled the plugs and they are essentially brand new. It has fresh new oil. When I started it, it did appear to blow some crap out. I let it run for about two or three minutes. My plan is to drain the fuel and get some fresh gas in it.

3.) I did lower the trim and indeed I had to lower the trailer as well. Additionally, I had to dig a hole to accommodate the drive going all the way down. The boat is currently parked behind my Mom's tiny house in my wife and I's back yard... she was THRILLED (sarcasm) with the hole and all the smoke.

4.) What is this? It was in a goody bag that came with the boat.

5.) Is this the speed gauge or depth gauge... or something else?

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Lol on the hole -- great news about the trim. -- you CAN raise the drive a little bit, may want clearance around the prop. the goody bag item is called a drive sleeve, incase you spin your hub/prop

and that is a depth finder hanging down off your boat.. The speedometer, is actually on the front of the drive, its a tiny hole, (as you move through the water, water forces itself up the hole, into a tub, putting air pressure into the tube, which works your speedometer.

 

[Fun Times]

In the photos, one is a spare mercruiser flo torq propeller hub, http://www.ebay.com/itm/MerCruiser-...do-Alpha-Bravo-835257Q1-Mercury-/262513023617

Do you have a spare prop in the boat? Meet forum member achris, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebWHIKRBKpQ

The other image on the transom of boat looks to be a depth gauge transducer possibly/maybe with a water temp sending unit as well.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Brown and Black wire --- Are those two wires by chance going to the bottom of your drive oil canister?

Also, trace the red and black wires (spliced into the trim wires )and see if they go up under the dash to the trim gauge... Got a pic of your gauges? Got a pic of the top of your engine without the plastic cover on it?

 

[Spiderhole]

I wonder why there is a drive sleeve that came with the boat? It appears to have been used. I do not have another prop.

I will take some more pics with the cover off and try to get some more pics of the wiring. I'm sure you guys would know in about two seconds flat if you could see it in person what exactly goes where. I will get it sorted out, it's just slow going being on my own (I appreciate all of your help here).

The depth gauge is broken off then. I would like to replace it... suggestions?

I think my ultimate goal is to get this thing running with confidence and the gauges working.

 

[Spiderhole]

Brown and Black wire --- Are those two wires by chance going to the bottom of your drive oil canister?

Also, trace the red and black wires (spliced into the trim wires )and see if they go up under the dash to the trim gauge... Got a pic of your gauges? Got a pic of the top of your engine without the plastic cover on it?

I will check and post some pics. Thanks again.

 

[achris]

I wonder why there is a drive sleeve that came with the boat? It appears to have been used. I do not have another prop.

Not uncommon (and actually a good practice) to carry a spare sleeve. I carry a couple, but also a complete spare prop.

I will take some more pics with the cover off and try to get some more pics of the wiring. I'm sure you guys would know in about two seconds flat if you could see it in person what exactly goes where. I will get it sorted out, it's just slow going being on my own (I appreciate all of your help here).

The depth gauge is broken off then. I would like to replace it... suggestions?

Most transducers are compatible with most sounders. The common brand used by most sounder makers is Airmar. The only variation is the maximum input power. That looks like it would be around 350-600W. What is the brand and model of the sounder? We can point you at the right transducer with that info.

I think my ultimate goal is to get this thing running with confidence and the gauges working.

That's what I'd do too.

Chris.......

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

Hello everyone... my wife was out of town on business, so I was playing Mr. Mom for a few days with my 6 month old son. I did find some time to poke around a bit more on the boat, take some more pics, identify and correct some things, and of course... I have some more questions.

SaveTexomaBeaches made a suggestion which I am going to definitely try in order to fix the idling issue (He also told me how to actually start the boat as a best practice). I am hoping I don't have to rebuild the carb. One question... I took two pics included here. One I believe is actually the fuel pump, it's between the fuel/water separating filter, and the carb. Is the fuel water separator the actual fuel filter, or am I missing another one somewhere else? Is it actually in the tank? I have another fuel water filter on hand.

My plan is to pump all the old fuel out of the boat, and give it some fresh fuel.

I was able to trace the wire back from my broken transducer and it goes to what clearly was an aftermarket depth finder. I would like to eliminate that and go back to the original gauge. I just have to dig into the wiring a bit. It appears the gauge still has power going to it, and oddly doesn't shut off as soon as you connect the battery.

I was able to review the wiring on my trim, reconnect a few wires at the gauge, and it seems my trim gauge is now working. It all seemed to function correctly when I tested it. I can say with reasonable certainty the entire trim setup and gauge are operating properly.

The fuel gauge appears to not be functioning... either that, or there really isn't that much fuel in the boat. I need to probably open the tank up and take a look in there with a lighter (Kidding of course ).

What kind of oil is recommended for the drive oil? My resevoir is showing below the level recomended. It appears I'm missing a vent hose.

There are some additional pics of some of the wiring etc that has clearly been crimped. Obviously none of it is insulated from water exposure, but I don't know if I am going to get so picky to deal with that all right now. Like I said... I'd like it to be confidently running and gauges operating so I can tell what's going on.

- Chris

 

[achris]

That filter is both water seperating and fuel filter (in one). You have a Weber carb, Carter AFB knock-off.

All sounders/depth finders are 'after-market'. No boat manufacturer makes sounders, the boat shop selling the boat just throw in the cheapest nastiest unit they can find. Determine what you want out of a sounder and buy accordingly. Many many makers; Garmin, Eagle, Lowrance, Hummingbird, and my favourite Funruno, to name just a few.

Check the fuel gauge by grounding the sender wire, It should ping the guage over to FULL.

The only oil recommended for the drive is Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube.

You're working on an engine I owned for 12 years. There are one tidy power package!

Do you have a wiring diagram (or a full service manual) for the engine?

Chris.....
BTW, only proper service manual is the factory one. Clymer and seloc don't constitute as manuals, just hand wipes or knee pads.

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

I pulled the fuel level sender out. I also drained the fuel out. There was about 4 gallons in it. Is it normal for that little retaining tab to be half way up the rod, or should it be down by the float?

 

[Spiderhole]

...also, would now be a good time for me to look at this flapper thing I've read about in the exhaust? My friend hydro locked his boat and i don't want that to happen to me.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

...also, would now be a good time for me to look at this flapper thing I've read about in the exhaust? My friend hydro locked his boat and i don't want that to happen to me.

If you want to.... lol --- Big rule in boating is, never go from full speed ahead to neutral quickly.. Always gradually slow down the boat. -- Were you able to test out the fuel sender?

 

[Spiderhole]

If you want to.... lol --- Big rule in boating is, never go from full speed ahead to neutral quickly.. Always gradually slow down the boat. -- Were you able to test out the fuel sender?

You don't think it's really nessessary? I was not able to test the sending yet by grounding it, but that is on my list. I still am wondering if that retaining tab is supposed to be moved up closer to the float.

 

[Bondo]

I still am wondering if that retaining tab is supposed to be moved up closer to the float.

Ayuh,.... I'd think it oughta be in contact with the float,... haven't worked on that particular sender though,...

As for the shutters, They live at the very top of the y-pipe, 1 set each side,....

They can, 'n will save yer motor,.....

 

[savetexomabeaches]

You don't think it's really nessessary? I was not able to test the sending yet by grounding it, but that is on my list. I still am wondering if that retaining tab is supposed to be moved up closer to the float.

Those flaps are very important -- Each one is located down where this finger is pointing..

Inside the pipe. They are just flaps. As for that retainer, yes, slide it back down to the float. As for the fuel sender, turn your key ON, touch the pink wire to the black, see if your gas gauge pegs out at full.. If so, gauge works.. Then, hook the pink wire to the middle of the fuel sender, and the black back up.. Then move your fuel sender arm up and down and see if the gauge moves.

 

[Spiderhole]

Excellent. I did ground the lead wire and the gauge pined itself to full, so it appears to work. I will pull it back out of the tank and test it. Maybe that clip needs to be moved up to the float.

As for the flaps, what am I looking for? Just to make sure the springs still have good tension I assume? They are on both sides I would also assume?

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Just make sure they are not burnt or melted. Both sides, yes. Also is a good time to replace your fuel water separator. You can get one almost anywhere

 

[Spiderhole]

No Title

On a scale from 1 to 10, with 10 being the most happy you could possibly ever be, how happy do you think I am right now that I just decided to open up those pipes and inspect the flaps?

Where can I buy the correct replacements?