winterizing merc?

boatman37

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2006 Mercruiser 5.7 TKS (turnkey start) in a 2006 Crownline 250CR. I have the manuals and in the past I have always used my Campco winterization kit where you fill the jug with pink then connect your garden hose to the T on the jug and warm the engine off the garden hose. Once warm you flip the T so it sucks the pink out of the jug. I store in an underground mine so it never gets cold enough to freeze but usually bring it home mid March and have got some pretty cold days after coming home.
So I can only find 3 drains on mine. First is down low on the front of the engine on what I guess is the water distribution block? Then IIRC there is one on the bottom of each manifold. None on the water pump that I can feel for. Was thinking this year about just pulling hoses and pouring directly into the hoses cause I'm not 100% confident the t-stat is opening to get pink all through the engine.
The only thing my manual says is to pull the 2 plugs on the sea water pump (mine doesn't have any) and the one of the front bottom of the engine. Then just says to let it drain and leave the plugs out?
Not mentioning outdrive, oil, etc as I'm ok with all that.
Wondering if maybe the blue plugs for the sea water pump got lost along the way and they replaced them with bolts? I can't see in there to see anything but can't feel much there either.
 

alldodge

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I have the manuals and in the past I have always used my Campco winterization kit where you fill the jug with pink then connect your garden hose to the T on the jug and warm the engine off the garden hose. Once warm you flip the T so it sucks the pink out of the jug. I store in an underground mine so it never gets cold enough to freeze but usually bring it home mid March and have got some pretty cold days after coming home.

You did say you pull the plugs but come on guy, ya been here since 2015 and using this kind of thing is just bad. The thermostat dos "not" stay open, so moving pink thru the motor does not go everywhere, and it gets diluted by any water in the block.

Back to your question:
Sounds like you have Merc's crack a block someday setup. Meaning it works great until one day it doesn't.

What is your serial number?
If there is no drains on the belt driven water pump then the hoses need to come off.
 

boatman37

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You did say you pull the plugs but come on guy, ya been here since 2015 and using this kind of thing is just bad. The thermostat dos "not" stay open, so moving pink thru the motor does not go everywhere, and it gets diluted by any water in the block.

Back to your question:
Sounds like you have Merc's crack a block someday setup. Meaning it works great until one day it doesn't.

What is your serial number?
If there is no drains on the belt driven water pump then the hoses need to come off.
Never had a problem but don't really need to winterize since we store underground. I just feel better doing it. And yes, I have considered that water was still in there diluting the AF. We bring it home usually mid-March and get down to maybe 30* for a few hours but nothing I was ever too concerned with but this past year we had 6" of snow on the boat a few days after we came home.

Serial # is 0W383495.

The only blue plug I can see is at the bottom of the water pump (engine mounted pump). IIRC there is one under each manifold but can't remember now.

I can try to get pics of the hose configuration when the rain lets up
 

alldodge

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I'm not seeing the single point drain with your motor so you should have 5 points. One on port side front for the recirculating water pump hose, 2 exhaust mans and 2 block drains (item 13).

 

boatman37

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I'm not seeing the single point drain with your motor so you should have 5 points. One on port side front for the recirculating water pump hose, 2 exhaust mans and 2 block drains (item 13).

There is definitely one on the starboard side front on the recirculating pump. that ones easy to see. Then pretty sure there is one under each manifold. Might be 2 on the block. My step-son always pulled them since he is a little smaller than me...lol. Last year I don't think I pulled them at all. I always pulled them to try to get any garbage cleared out then start it up on muffs with the Campco kit with the T. Pulling the plugs was only for trying to help clear any junk out, not for draining. But if I can figure out the 'safe' sure way to do it then I'm up for it. So then you are saying if I pull all 5 of those plugs and drain then fill one of the upper hoses then I'm good to go? What about the seawater pump? No plugs?
 

alldodge

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The key is getting all the water out. If its all out your good because as Bondo says "air doesn't freeze".

Pull plugs, stick a wire or screw up inside the hole to make sure nothing is there to keep it from draining. Once drained your winterized. The hose coming from the pump to the power steering cooler is another which is best to drain. I put a Tee fitting in mine with Blue plug to make it easier
 

boatman37

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The key is getting all the water out. If its all out your good because as Bondo says "air doesn't freeze".

Pull plugs, stick a wire or screw up inside the hole to make sure nothing is there to keep it from draining. Once drained your winterized. The hose coming from the pump to the power steering cooler is another which is best to drain. I put a Tee fitting in mine with Blue plug to make it easier

The key is getting all the water out. If its all out your good because as Bondo says "air doesn't freeze".

Pull plugs, stick a wire or screw up inside the hole to make sure nothing is there to keep it from draining. Once drained your winterized. The hose coming from the pump to the power steering cooler is another which is best to drain. I put a Tee fitting in mine with Blue plug to make it easier
Yeah when we had our Sea Ray I just left everything empty the first few years. But we have always kept ours underground in the winter where it never drops below 55* so I was never real worried about it. If we were leaving it outside all winter I'd be paying a legit shop to do it cause I don't trust myself to get it 100% but for my situation it was good enough.

And thanks for the info! Will let you know how it goes. BTW-our 1986 250 Sundancer manual pretty much spelled it out how to drain everything. This one has instructions for about 4 or 5 different setups so wanted to make sure I was following the right one.
 

achris

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You guys in areas that don't normally freeze need to start thinking differently. We are experiencing major weather extremes, much like the Pliocene age (2.5 to 5 million years ago). Hot places are getting hotter and drier, and cold places are getting colder. If you 'don't normally get freezing temperatures', start planning for them, they are coming...

You have a plug on either side of the engine block, down at the bottom of the crankcase casting, one on the bottom of each manifold. You need to remove those all plugs, remove the big house from the engine water pump and do 2 things. 1. Poke the holes with a small screwdriver or a stiff piece of wire to make sure all the water is out.
2. Put the plugs in a plastic bag and tape it to the steering wheel...

Chris...
 
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alldodge

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Put the plugs in a plastic bag and tape it to the steering wheel...

Never done that but do replace the blue plugs with stainless steel ones
 

achris

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Taping the bag with the plugs in it to the steering wheel just ensures you a) have the plugs out so all the water is out, b) so you don't forget to put them back in 🤦‍♂️ come first start in spring...

Chris...
 

alldodge

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Taping the bag with the plugs in it to the steering wheel just ensures you a) have the plugs out so all the water is out, b) so you don't forget to put them back in 🤦‍♂️ come first start in spring...

Chris...

Got that on the first post, I just put them other areas along with the drain plug. The boat always gets fired up before dunked back in the water, so if one is left out there is water in the bilge
 

boatman37

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So looked up the seawater pump and got this > 807151A9. Took a look and don't see any drain plugs on it either. So do I just disconnect the hoses and crank the engine over? Anything else I need to do with that?
 

alldodge

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Water pump impeller should be replaced every 2 years but no more then 3 years. Do not crank the motor over because it can burn the impeller with no water.

Once the hose is disconnected, the rest of the water will slowly drain out
 

boatman37

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Water pump impeller should be replaced every 2 years but no more then 3 years. Do not crank the motor over because it can burn the impeller with no water.

Once the hose is disconnected, the rest of the water will slowly drain out
Sounds good. That impeller was replaced at the end of 2018 when we bought the boat. Temps have been good so didn't think about replacing it but might be a good idea?
 

Kubaat3lover

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Taping the bag with the plugs in it to the steering wheel just ensures you a) have the plugs out so all the water is out, b) so you don't forget to put them back in 🤦‍♂️ come first start in spring...

Chris...

Chris, manual says to screw back in to prevent rust.. however I would like to leave my plugs off , Did it once and it worked but im afraid of rusting (?)
 
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poconojoe

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When I tape tape the bag of drain plugs to my steering wheel, I also include my garboard drain plug in the bag. All the plugs are in one obvious place.
I use electrical tape with the sticky side up so the steering wheel doesn't get sticky. Or...use a ty-wrap.
 

stormulus

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Sorry, looks like its not there. Can only order the service manual
I ordered an owners manual in Sept. 2020, but only the printed version was available and I think it was around $30.00 plus shipping. Need to enter one of the sets of information requested. I did it by serial number.
Took about 2 weeks to get it here in NH.
 
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