Winterization of my Commodore 272

[hondoNH]

I've got my 1996 Regal Commodore 272 on the stands and am preparing it for winter. I've done my own winterization the last few years without issue. But I have a couple of questions about winterization:

• Do I really need to disconnect my battery? The engine compartment is accessed by opening the deck with a dash dipswitch that activates a motor to open. If I disconnect the battery, I need to close and open manually. The deck lid is extremely heavy and awkward to do manually.
• Can I add Heet AND Stabil to my fuel? The engine was running a little rough and I suspect it may have had some water in it. I will replace the filter but would like to ensure any water gets taken care of.
• After pulling and draining hoses in bilge, do I reconnect them or leave themopen?

Thanks

 

[alldodge]

Moving the thread so it gets more views. Your questions are not Regal specific

Do I really need to disconnect my battery? The engine compartment is accessed by opening the deck with a dash dipswitch that activates a motor to open. If I disconnect the battery, I need to close and open manually. The deck lid is extremely heavy and awkward to do manually.

In you situation I would not physically disconnect Bat. Switching the Bat switch off is good enough

Can I add Heet AND Stabil to my fuel? The engine was running a little rough and I suspect it may have had some water in it. I will replace the filter but would like to ensure any water gets taken care of.

If you run E10 gas then there is no need to add Heet, it's just ethanol
Adding Stabil is a good idea
Being a 1996 you boat may be MPI but would need to let us know what it is. Serial numbers are best for Merc, if VP need model

After pulling and draining hoses in bilge, do I reconnect them or leave themopen?

Which hoses? Are you talking about the motor hoses or others?
Which drives and is it open or closed cool?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your location?

Replace the fuel filter and pour its contents into a clear container and look. You will see if you had water in the fuel

Is your boat heat exchanger cooled? Or raw water cooled?

If raw water cooled, did you drain the block, manifolds, etc.

Did you change oil before draining?

Did you pull the drive for the annual drive service?

 

[hondoNH]

Moving the thread so it gets more views. Your questions are not Regal specific


In you situation I would not physically disconnect Bat. Switching the Bat switch off is good enough


If you run E10 gas then there is no need to add Heet, it's just ethanol
Adding Stabil is a good idea
Being a 1996 you boat may be MPI but would need to let us know what it is. Serial numbers are best for Merc, if VP need model


Which hoses? Are you talking about the motor hoses or others?
Which drives and is it open or closed cool?

Thanks for moving thread.
Already added Stabil and ran engine before pulling boat. Tank is about 95% full. Reason I was wondering about water is that I finally brought the tank down this summer to almost empty after 3 years of ownership.
Will check gas in current fuel filter when I replace it.
The hoses I'm talking about are the ones to cool engine. The engine is Volvo Penta 7.4 GL. Lower unit is (I believe) 290DP.

 

[hondoNH]

Your location?

Replace the fuel filter and pour its contents into a clear container and look. You will see if you had water in the fuel

Is your boat heat exchanger cooled? Or raw water cooled?

If raw water cooled, did you drain the block, manifolds, etc.

Did you change oil before draining?

Did you pull the drive for the annual drive service?

I am in NH. Raw water cooled engine. My process is to drain block, manifolds, etc. Changed the oil in spring but did not get a whole lot of use this summer due to weird weather. I have never pulled drive.

 

[alldodge]

No need to leave hoses disconnected, can reconnect after draining

 

[Scott Danforth]

If you ran the motor, suggest changing oil before winter. Acids in oil from combustion process are not favorable to bearings over the winter

 

[Lou C]

I put a bit of gasket sealer on the threads of the metal drain plugs and some grease where the hoses fit onto the stat housing, impeller housing, manifolds & circulating pump. This helps to prevent corrosion that will make the hoses hard to remove

 

[Scott Danforth]

The engine is Volvo Penta 7.4 GL. Lower unit is (I believe) 290DP.

The 290DP was 1988, the DPA1 came out in 1989 ( updated 290 variant)

Your 1996 would be a DPC1

 

[crazy charlie]

I've got my 1996 Regal Commodore 272 on the stands and am preparing it for winter. I've done my own winterization the last few years without issue. But I have a couple of questions about winterization:

• Do I really need to disconnect my battery? The engine compartment is accessed by opening the deck with a dash dipswitch that activates a motor to open. If I disconnect the battery, I need to close and open manually. The deck lid is extremely heavy and awkward to do manually.
• Can I add Heet AND Stabil to my fuel? The engine was running a little rough and I suspect it may have had some water in it. I will replace the filter but would like to ensure any water gets taken care of.
• After pulling and draining hoses in bilge, do I reconnect them or leave themopen?

Thanks

No need to remove batteries.Good idea to leave shore power connected and charge batteries every month while in storage.after draining block and manifolds and sounds like you are storing engine dry,I would pour some 50/50 AF thru the hoses to ensure any remaining water is diluted with AF and reconnect the hoses when done.I dont believe in storing the engine dry as I fill by manifolds and block with AF for storage.I am in the minority with that debate here. Stabile is perfect for fuel storage.As already mentioned, change the fuel/water sep and check the contents for water.I would highly recommend pulling the drive as you are overdue for this service.I have a Commodore 280 for past 22 years so any other questions feel free to ask.Charlie

 

[QBhoy]

Hi. If it does have one of the 290 umbrella outdrives (might not being a 96) make sure you either crack open the gear oil drain and look…or change oil. The 290 and its many variants and evolutions…are famous for taking water into the gear oil. Either by careless procedure and/or poor seal design

 

[hondoNH]

Appreciate all of the recommendations from the forum. Have successfully winterized several times now.

Moving on to boat's electrical. I have only used this boat for swimming and cruising. I do not sleep on it and have never used the microwave, cooktop or refrigerator. The only thing I use is the stereo while out on the water. The boat has 2 batteries and I believe they are still good but will check with multimeter. I've noticed that the motor to open the engine compartment runs very slowly. I do not keep the boat on shore power so the only thing charging the batteries is running it. I'd like to connect to shore power to charge the batteries from time to time.

• Do I just connect to power at the dock and leave it be? For how long?
• Do I need to do anything at the panel?
• Does the Perko switch remain off if I want to charge the batteries?
• Does anyone have a good explanation or good documentation) for all the switches in the panel?
• Where would the fuse box be in this boat?

There is also a dipswitch panel in the driver area. A couple of these fuses seem to be popped out. Pushing them in does nothing. One is the bilge pump switch but it still appears to work if I push the switch.

• Should I just pull and replace the fuse?

 

[alldodge]

If converter means battery charger then connect shore owner to keeps Bats charged. If it has to bat charger then no need to plug in unless there is something else you want to use.

Bilge pump breaker tripped but pump still works means it's been bypassed most likely. Need to verify to make sure, and boat can have more then one pump

 

[mr 88]

Really need a Amp meter to check your battery . Or a battery load tester , made for that , to give you a accurate assessment. You could take 8 D batteries at 1.5 volts per battery , attach them together and start your motor , if that's the voltage you needed . Unfortunately you need amps to kick it over .

 

[crazy charlie]

Appreciate all of the recommendations from the forum. Have successfully winterized several times now.

Moving on to boat's electrical. I have only used this boat for swimming and cruising. I do not sleep on it and have never used the microwave, cooktop or refrigerator. The only thing I use is the stereo while out on the water. The boat has 2 batteries and I believe they are still good but will check with multimeter. I've noticed that the motor to open the engine compartment runs very slowly. I do not keep the boat on shore power so the only thing charging the batteries is running it. I'd like to connect to shore power to charge the batteries from time to time.

• Do I just connect to power at the dock and leave it be? For how long?
• Do I need to do anything at the panel?
• Does the Perko switch remain off if I want to charge the batteries?
• Does anyone have a good explanation or good documentation) for all the switches in the panel?
• Where would the fuse box be in this boat?

There is also a dipswitch panel in the driver area. A couple of these fuses seem to be popped out. Pushing them in does nothing. One is the bilge pump switch but it still appears to work if I push the switch.

• Should I just pull and replace the fuse?

View attachment 400808

For a quick answer on the batteries run your engine compartment lift while the motors are are running and that should give you a good clue. I would run the motor on each battery separately and see if the compartment lift acts differently.Charlie

 

[hondoNH]

I've attached some pictures as requested but site will not allow me to upload at this time. I have yet to get a direct reading from the battery but will include that next time I get to my boat.

Running the engine at idle, I did notice that the engine compartment door opens faster than if the engine is not running. When running, the gauge shows approximately 12.5 volts. That seems a little low to me but I believe it is allowable.

In the engine compartment, there is a "C-Charger" battery charger. When plugged in to shore power, I was unable to get the gauge on the charger to move off zero "D C Amperes". I tried turning on "Shore Power" at the panel, "Converter"", Perko switch to "on" and "off", even "Main" and "Shore Power" together. No idea how to get it to charge while plugged in. I know shore power is working because outlets are live.

Boat seems to start fine. Guessing I am getting enough juice off the alternator to keep the batteries alive. But I would feel better if I could understand the electrical. All I'm using is the original boat owners manual, which is oddly hard to read. Images do not match what is on my boat.

 

[hondoNH]

Also, does anyone know where the fuses would be located? Can't find a panel anywhere including in the engine compartment.

 

[crazy charlie]

Also, does anyone know where the fuses would be located? Can't find a panel anywhere including in the engine compartment.

poke your head up under the dashboard and see what you see.I had an older Regal that had fuse panel behind a panel in the aft cabin .

 

[briangcc]

What's the age of the batts? I'm betting they're on the way out as 12.5V running is low.

Key here is that they don't run your actuator full tilt without the engine running. The alt is making up the difference in volt/amps for your batts...

I'd pull them and take them to a nearby Autozone (or similar) to have them load tested.

For fuses you're gonna have to hunt. May be tucked up under the dash - my Bayliner and FourWinns were like that. OR stuffed in another compartment - my Chap is that way.

 

[hondoNH]

The batteries are from 2019. Unhooked and took down to Autozone. Voltage and cranking are good, no issues. Maybe the motor on the engine compartment door is failing?

Still cannot find the fuse box. Has to be in the engine compartment I'm guessing. Nowhere else obvious.

Still can't load pictures. Server issue?