Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

USC

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Apr 2, 2014
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Yes, I've used the search and read numerous articles/threats about wiring dual batteries with Perko switch. Still a little confused and hope for some direct feedback.

Backstory- Purchased a '89 Stingray a month or so ago. Boat had a Perko switch and 1 battery. Aside from the starter only power needed is for gauges, radio, lights, and bilge. Took the boat out, ran great, parked it, one week later battery drained so it wouldn't start. The switch was in the ALL position and I did not switch to off. Radio memory and bilge were left on on accident.

Bought a 2nd battery- below is the wiring diagram

Unfortunately, all the accessories are direct wired (and fused) to the battery- no bus bar.

From what I understand about wiring, with how I have it set up now I plan on using #1 battery as my starter battery, #2 for accessories.

Questions:
1- What is the best way to charge both batteries while on the water? Will the both charge if in the On position?
2- Should I wired the two negatives together? My understanding is this would lead to me being able to crank off both if necessary.
3- If I wire the negatives together and switch to the Off position, will my accessories still run off Batter 2? Will it be draining any juice from Batter 1?
4- Should I wire the accessories to on of the Perko Switch terminals to simplify the wiring/switch?

Any input is greatly appreciated.
Boat Wiring.jpg
 

HalfFish5087

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

USC, welcome to iboats!

First, lets look at your schematic. The path on battery one as it is now is a direct short (not good) and changes are needed. Think of your battery switch like this; the pos leads from your batteries are the input and common (usually the center pole) is your output. The common is a pos lead that will need to go to your engine starter and accessories. And both neg leads will be grounded to your engine.

I'm a big fan of the KISS method (keep it simple, stupid) and the above is how I have mine. I run all day on battery 1 and the next day on run on battery 2 and try and remember to turn the switch it off when done for the day. That way you'll have a good back up if you need it.

You can run just the accessories on one battery, the engine from another and charge both batteries, but some other items will be needed.

Oh, never turn the battery switch when the engine is running.
 

USC

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Thank you for your reply, Half. I'm still confused though.....

Just making sure I understand correctly, the engine has two wires coming from it.... One is going to the common one is going to the Bat 1 Ground. Is there an issue with this?

Newb appreciating any help/input...
 

HalfFish5087

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Yes, there are two wires coming from the engine. The negative (black) is the ground and is usually bolted to the bellhousing. The positive wire (red) is coming from the engine starter. Let me know if the following helps (Diagram No. 1). If not, I'll find some pics.

View attachment Perko.pdf
 

USC

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Alright, so I need to move the ground for the starter from the battery to the bellhousing (will google and try to figure out where exactly that is :lol:), and wire the negative terminals together at the same location on the bellhousing.

As for the accessories, without having to get a separate charger, is it OK to keep them directly connected to one of the batteries? Or should I wire all the positives to the common and the negatives to the bellhousing for the ground and keep the switch one 1 all day, 2 the next as you stated? Then, if my accessories run 1 down after having the motor off for a while I can always switch to 2 and know its got the juice to fire me up.
Thanks for all your help.
 

HalfFish5087

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Alright, so I need to move the ground for the starter from the battery to the bellhousing (will google and try to figure out where exactly that is :lol:), and wire the negative terminals together at the same location on the bellhousing.

Okay, maybe we need to back up a bit. Have you already started to make changes to the original wiring on your boat?

As for the accessories, without having to get a separate charger, is it OK to keep them directly connected to one of the batteries? Or should I wire all the positives to the common and the negatives to the bellhousing for the ground and keep the switch one 1 all day, 2 the next as you stated? Then, if my accessories run 1 down after having the motor off for a while I can always switch to 2 and know its got the juice to fire me up.
Thanks for all your help.

I'm getting a little confused here. Are you worried about connecting a charger to the battery(s)?

I would make all your connections (starter, accessories, gauges, everything...) to the common and not at the battery. I suggest this cause if one battery goes dead you simply select the other battery on switch and your back in business.

I went back up to original statement and you said you "parked" your boat. Does this mean that you left the boat in the water? If so, I would recommend that the bilge pump always have power and never switched off through a fused connection. If you have a automatic bilge pump with sensing technology, this needs to go. The power required to keep the memory on your stereo would take months to make a battery go dead. If you have bilge pump with a float switch, which is recommended, then your bilge was keeping your boat above the water and you need to fix a leak.

Now I don't mean to confuse, but I want to give you all the options here. You can also add an ACR. This device allows you to charge both batteries through your alternator, but keep your accessories on one battery and engine on the other. An example is Blue Sea ACR. You can read up on their website if interested.
 

USC

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

The picture of the wiring is how it is currently. When I purchased the boat there was only one battery with everything directly connected to the battery. All I have done is purchase a second battery and move the connection for the accessories to the second battery. The picture is how things currently are.

When I said parked I meant out of the water. Unfortunately, I'm 45 min from the closest lake so I keep the boat at the house at the time being. The boat wont be left in the water for the amount of time that I think I need the bilge directly wired, however, I could always track the wires and do so.

From what Ive learned from your posted, forum, and research I do think it would be best to run the pos from all the acc. to the common and just run off one battery at a time, switching each time I go, just making sure I understand for circuit purposes I need to have the negative go to a separate ground than just having it connected ground to - on the battery, correct?

Thank you a million for your assistance, Half... I can read over and over generalities and threads but it is much more helpful and comforting discussing my specifics with someone.
 

HalfFish5087

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

From what Ive learned from your posted, forum, and research I do think it would be best to run the pos from all the acc. to the common and just run off one battery at a time, switching each time I go, just making sure I understand for circuit purposes I need to have the negative go to a separate ground than just having it connected ground to - on the battery, correct?

See if the attached will help. Also, what gauge wire are you using for the grounds and positive wires to and from the switch?

Boat Batteries Diagram.jpg
 

USC

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

2ga

Diagram makes sense... Based off that I think all thats left is grounding my accessories battery. Starter is grounded correctly. each

Heres where I am with switch position
Off- Accessories still work fine being directly wired, all have on/off switches so I'm not concerned about them draining power. Motor doesn't have power)
1- Access. have power, motor has power
All- Access. have power, motor has power
2- Motor does not have power, access still have power

My plan- Start/run on All (this will charge both batteries, correct?). When anchored using radio/lights without motor switch Off to run off just battery 2, saving 1 for starting power.
 

NYBo

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Your original diagram wires in a dead short so it's good you've eliminated that.

The purpose of the switch it to choose which battery (or both) provides power, NOT what gets power.

In summary: The positive lead from battery #1 goes to terminal #1, the positive lead from battery #2 goes to terminal #2. The positive lead to the motor and fuse block connect to the Com terminal. The bilge pump positive should be connected directly to the positive terminal of one of the batteries so you can't accidentally leave it unpowered. All the negatives are linked together.
 

HalfFish5087

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Re: Will this setup charge? How to improve? Directly Wired accessories

Heres where I am with switch position
Off- Accessories still work fine being directly wired, all have on/off switches so I'm not concerned about them draining power. Motor doesn't have power)
1- Access. have power, motor has power
All- Access. have power, motor has power
2- Motor does not have power, access still have power

My plan- Start/run on All (this will charge both batteries, correct?). When anchored using radio/lights without motor switch Off to run off just battery 2, saving 1 for starting power.

Sorry this won't work like your thinking. If the switch is on "all" and even though you have the accessories directly connected to one of the batteries, it will actually drain both batteries. This is because the batteries are connected through the switch and batteries will equalize. This is why I recommended that you connect the accessories to the "common" side of the switch in an earlier post. This way you leave it on one battery and go have fun, if unable to start then you switch to the other battery and hopefully your able to start and have all your gauges working. Then you use a charger to top off the dead battery when your back home.
 
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