Why is finding information on boats so difficult?

[NorinRadd]

Im new to boating, been an auto mechanic most of my life.

Why does it seem like finding any basic info is the same as trying to solve the 8 wonders of the world?!? ffs. Its not fun lol wild goose hunts for basic things.

Even just trying to decode serial numbers and figure out wtf you are working with is a damn treasure hunt. Let alone the most basic info once youre past that.

I need to replace the seals on my tilt trim. Sourced the parts. Sourced a video on how to. Dont know what fkn model sterndrive I have. Should be the most basic thing

a data base of serials doesnt exist!?! There is literally everything imaginable available on the internet. Except for info on boat engines….

Ive had this boat for 2 years. Yet to get it in the water because there is no info for it anywhere and im starting with zero knowledge.

So do most people
In my position just pay a mechanic to do everything?

 

[jimmbo]

You don't say what Make your I/O is, what HP, or even what Year.
Mercury maintains a Database of all of its Serial Numbers, as the Parts Departments at Dealers do look parts up that Way.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Regardless if it's a Merc, VP, OMC, etc. there are identification guides in the stickies.

Your 7 paragraph post doesn't have one but of information on what you are working on

 

[tpenfield]

You'll get there, but In the boating world serial numbers do not tend to decode as they may in the automotive world.

There are boat HIN numbers . . . similar to VIN in the automotive world. As for the engines, those tend to be serial number ranges, and do not relate in any way to the boat that they are installed in.

Getting the service manuals for the engines are the most useful source of information, as you mentioned. When I get a 'new-2-me' boat, that is the first thing I buy. Also, with newer engines, you'll need the computer diagnostics stuff, similar to newer cars.

As for the boats themselves, there are no comprehensive 'manuals' like cars have. Newer boats tend to come with better information, but older boats . . . forgetaboutit. The thing to keep in mind is that boat companies buy most of the components rather than make them. So, if something breaks on a boat, it is a matter of seeing what brand/model the component is, and sourcing it that way.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If you are looking at information on your VP AQ151A package as per this thread https://forums.iboats.com/threads/290-sterndrive-serial-decode.773272/

then you follow the bread crumb trail I left. you can get part information that way.

get the proper manual from VP for working on the motor or drive.

I would normally say go here for the manual. https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/your-engine/manuals-and-handbooks/ however on your 40 year old motor and drive combination. you will have to scroll to the bottom and contact them, or visit your local dealer. (they only keep the last 15-20 years on the website search engine. There is no alldata site for boats.

anything on youtube should be suspect. most of the information is wrong, get the manual. almost as bad as a seloc, hanes or chilton manual.





with regards to your trim cylinders. the 290 only has two types. and fivestar marine tells you how to identify them prior to buying a seal kit from them.

best to re-seal them while they are still on the boat as to get the pins out of the blind end requires the motor, drive and transom shield to be removed from the boat.

 

[JASinIL2006]

@NorinRadd , if you put the type of boat and the serial numbers for your engine and drive (assuming an I/O) in your signature, it will make it very easy for people to help you find answers to your questions. Nothing bad will happen if you post that info publicly and there are many folks here who can look up part numbers, repair protocols, etc., if you provide that info.

You can create a signature block that will be added to each of your posts on the forum by clicking on your username in the upper right corner of your browser. That will drop a menu where one of the choices is "Signature". Just type in that info and it will show up every time you post. You'll get much more tailored help, and folks won't have to repeatedly ask what kind of boat/engine/drive you're working on.

 

[NorinRadd]

You don't say what Make your I/O is, what HP, or even what Year.
Mercury maintains a Database of all of its Serial Numbers, as the Parts Departments at Dealers do look parts up that Way.

I did make a thread.

Volvo 290 with aq151a 1986. Serial id on sterndrive is 29007953D

 

[NorinRadd]

Regardless if it's a Merc, VP, OMC, etc. there are identification guides in the stickies.

Your 7 paragraph post doesn't have one but of information on what you are working on

I did find the serial id on the sterndrive via the sticky. Serial is 29007953D cant find any info

 

[NorinRadd]

If you are looking at information on your VP AQ151A package as per this thread https://forums.iboats.com/threads/290-sterndrive-serial-decode.773272/

then you follow the bread crumb trail I left. you can get part information that way.

get the proper manual from VP for working on the motor or drive.

I would normally say go here for the manual. https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/your-engine/manuals-and-handbooks/ however on your 40 year old motor and drive combination. you will have to scroll to the bottom and contact them, or visit your local dealer. (they only keep the last 15-20 years on the website search engine. There is no alldata site for boats.

anything on youtube should be suspect. most of the information is wrong, get the manual. almost as bad as a seloc, hanes or chilton manual.


View attachment 399726


with regards to your trim cylinders. the 290 only has two types. and fivestar marine tells you how to identify them prior to buying a seal kit from them.

best to re-seal them while they are still on the boat as to get the pins out of the blind end requires the motor, drive and transom shield to be removed from the boat.

Thank you I will check with 5star. I did source the technicians manual and the service manual for my year on ebay.

If I have to re seal them ill just sell the boat. Thats too much work.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If I have to re seal them ill just sell the boat. Thats too much work.

Then I suggest you sell the boat. the seals will last 20 years max and you are going on 41 years

it took me an hour to re-seal the cylinders

 

[NorinRadd]

Then I suggest you sell the boat. the seals will last 20 years max and you are going on 41 years

it took me an hour to re-seal the cylinders

Likely will I have no idea how to remove the stern drive or transom shield let alone reseal what cylinder. Will take me forever. If I had someone to help guide me id be 100% into it. Its like telling a dog to remove the leg snd shield and replace the seals. I dont even knkw where or what the seals are. Never had a boat before.

 

[NorinRadd]

Then I suggest you sell the boat. the seals will last 20 years max and you are going on 41 years

it took me an hour to re-seal the cylinders

Im well acquainted with these seals

 

[NorinRadd]

@NorinRadd , if you put the type of boat and the serial numbers for your engine and drive (assuming an I/O) in your signature, it will make it very easy for people to help you find answers to your questions. Nothing bad will happen if you post that info publicly and there are many folks here who can look up part numbers, repair protocols, etc., if you provide that info.

You can create a signature block that will be added to each of your posts on the forum by clicking on your username in the upper right corner of your browser. That will drop a menu where one of the choices is "Signature". Just type in that info and it will show up every time you post. You'll get much more tailored help, and folks won't have to repeatedly ask what kind of boat/engine/drive you're working on.

I want to keep this old beauty boat. Its in amazing shape and is the same boat I grew up on wjth my passed away grandpa.

 

[jimmbo]

I did make a thread.

Volvo 290 with aq151a 1986. Serial id on sterndrive is 29007953D

You made NO Mention of it in this thread. And no one here is obligated to do a Search of any other Posts you make, in order to find Needed Info

 

[Scott Danforth]

I dont even knkw where or what the seals are. Never had a boat before.

yet you claim to be a mechanic

Im new to boating, been an auto mechanic most of my life.

to reseal the cylinders. raise the drive, put a block of wood underneath the drive, pull the pins on the cylinder rods, lower the drive to retract the rods

using a pin spanner, pull the glands off the cylinders, pull the rod, gland and piston assembly. take it to the bench or tail gate and swap the seals.

be careful not to fold over the piston seal when re-installing

use the pin spanner to tighten the gland.

refill the reservoir and raise/lower about 10 times to bleed the system

to pull the drive, follow the process in the drive manual.
once the drive is pulled, you can then access the PDS clamp ring to remove the motor and PDS. use the clamp bolts to drive the PDS clamp off (per the manual) then disconnect fuel, exhaust, wiring, and pull motor out.

only after the motor and PDS have been pulled, could one pull the transom shield by removing the 6 clamping pads and pulling from the boat.

 

[airshot]

Thank you I will check with 5star. I did source the technicians manual and the service manual for my year on ebay.

If I have to re seal them ill just sell the boat. Thats too much work.

Perhaps boating is not a good hobby for you, you might look for something with less expense and work to maintain.

 

[Scott Danforth]

This is the pin spanner I had to modify.

This the the cylinders pulled from the drive

this is what the cylinders look like apart.

 

[NorinRadd]

You made NO Mention of it in this thread. And no one here is obligated to do a Search of any other Posts you make, in order to find Needed Info

You made NO Mention of it in this thread. And no one here is obligated to do a Search of any other Posts you make, in order to find Needed Info

Well I didnt make this post to find the serial. Was just venting

 

[NorinRadd]

yet you claim to be a mechanic



to reseal the cylinders. raise the drive, put a block of wood underneath the drive, pull the pins on the cylinder rods, lower the drive to retract the rods

using a pin spanner, pull the glands off the cylinders, pull the rod, gland and piston assembly. take it to the bench or tail gate and swap the seals.

be careful not to fold over the piston seal when re-installing

use the pin spanner to tighten the gland.

refill the reservoir and raise/lower about 10 times to bleed the system

to pull the drive, follow the process in the drive manual.
once the drive is pulled, you can then access the PDS clamp ring to remove the motor and PDS. use the clamp bolts to drive the PDS clamp off (per the manual) then disconnect fuel, exhaust, wiring, and pull motor out.

only after the motor and PDS have been pulled, could one pull the transom shield by removing the 6 clamping pads and pulling from the boat.

Last I checked automobiles dont have hydraulic sterndrives scott

Thanks for the write up! I found a video walkthrough of this on youtube. He doesnt remove the transom shield or take the drive off. Just does what you mentioned. Thats all I want to do. The boat is basically brand new. Extremely well taken care of. The old man I bought it off did routine maintenance and kept it in amazing shape. Ive been offered 3500 just for the motor as I was debating getting rid of it and podding.


Have to buy a pin spanner! Thanks again.

 

[NorinRadd]

Perhaps boating is not a good hobby for you, you might look for something with less expense and work to maintain.

Perhaps maintaining vintage boats is not a hobby for me*** I prefer to be on the water. Not on the forums or in the garage 99% of my life trying to decipher ancient bullshit. Like cars I figured BASIC info wouldnt be a royal pita to dig up.