while winterizing

[dolphinlvr]

Hello all, and thanks in advance for you help. Being a brand new boat owner(this Sat.) we were winterizing the 1972-65hp motor. We had the muffs on with water going through. When we had it running water came out of only 1 hole. not the prop area at all. Is this normal or should I take it in and get it checked. Also we filled the oil from the top screw. Could this make the difference. We will change the oil again and do it the right way. Am I crazy for starting out with such an old motor and not being very mechanical. :redface:

 

[asdasc]

Re: while winterizing

Am I crazy for starting out with such an old motor and not being very mechanical. :redface:

Nope, but my guess is that you will end up getting pretty mechanical or spending some money if you have any problems. Take it in small steps, listen to the guys on here, and have fun with it!

Read all the posts you can on here, and go thru all the engine FAQs - they are priceless.

 

[NelsonQ]

Re: while winterizing

Hello all, and thanks in advance for you help. Being a brand new boat owner(this Sat.) we were winterizing the 1972-65hp motor. We had the muffs on with water going through. When we had it running water came out of only 1 hole. not the prop area at all. Is this normal or should I take it in and get it checked. Also we filled the oil from the top screw. Could this make the difference. We will change the oil again and do it the right way. Am I crazy for starting out with such an old motor and not being very mechanical. :redface:

The hole the water you refer it coming out of is the tell tale I suspect (up near the bottom of the engine block at the rear of the motor) Thats a good thing meaning your impeller is working.

With an older motor and not knowing its history, before running it out on the water (perhaps in the spring before the season) drop the lower unit and add a new impeller.

As for the winterization, change the oil out again, filling from the lower hole until it oozes out the upper vent plug hole, change the two washers on the plugs (most common place for leaks) I'd do this after the impeller change in the spring as you have oil in it now and drained the old oil.

Was your old oil milky or was it clear (meaning little use) or greenish/murky colored (meaning it was dirty but not full of water) This is an important step in determining any water leaks in the L/U.

Lastly, as part of your winterization, fog the carbs until is stalls out, pull the plugs and give each cylinder a shot of fogging oil (optional step but takes a few minutes extra to do)

In the spring, do the impeller as mentioned, decarb the engine (search forums you'll find more details on how) and after the decarb, install new plugs.

Welcome to iboats and to becoming a new (to you) boat owner.

 

[NelsonQ]

Re: while winterizing

Even in greater detail, here is a winterization thread that will be more detailed.

Good luck

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158078

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: while winterizing

for future reference, you have a hydro-elelctric shift motor. there is a wire that runs down the the lower unit to shift the gears. it must not be damaged.

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.