which trim tilt system is this

gman2310

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Good Afternoon, just bout this force outboard, didn't get much information about it from the owner. He put a new motor on system last year, but the motor still leaks down. Looking for a way to fix this. Do I need a new valve body? Which system do I have? Oh yea, its on a 150 hp Force
 

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jerryjerry05

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You need the hyd. pump.
But do a leak down test.
You have a manual? Get the factory one.
E-bay 301568364910
One like this. They can be found cheaper on some marine sites.
What year, model?
 

Jiggz

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That's pretty much a standard T&T on the Force 80's and early 90's 85HP and above. Read through this sticky post for test and repair procedures and then post what your diagnosis is, i.e. leaking Tilt cylinder, Trim cylinder or valve body (VB). Although the Chinese made VB are cheaper and less work than rebuilding an OEM, you basically get what you pay for especially for big 150HP like yours. Remember the port side tilt cylinder is nothing but a shock absorber. Only the stbd one is the real hyd tilt cylinder.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...outboards/659768-88-force-85hp-trim-drop-help
 
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Frank Acampora

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That is a Force version of the original Chrysler t/t system. It has the later model 2 wire motor/pump with screw-in check valves. The check valve for holding the engine up usually goes bad first. So, you can gain some service time by swapping the check valve from the visible side with the check valve facing the transom.

However, rebuilding the check valve is not difficult. Brace the engine so it will not fall or put it all the way down. Then using a 1/4 inch Allen wrench (L shaped hex) simply unscrew the valve. there will be two O-rings on the valve. Remove the small one and carefully use a tool in the groove to pry off the small cap with a hole in the center. Inside will be a needle and spring with a very small O-ring. They may pop out so don't lose them. The ring will probably be broken or completely missing. Replace the O-ring. If you search other threads I think a Techumpsa carb kit has the correct O-ring in it. Or perhaps someone else will chime in with a source.

Press the cap back on the valve using a very small amount of lock-tite, replace the O=-ring you originally removed, and screw the valve back into the pump body.. New O-rings on the valve would be a good idea too, especially if you damaged the smaller one removing it.
 
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Frank Acampora

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I have photos that were in my original forum photo gallery. When the change came all were apparently lost. It is way too much of a P.I.A. to search my thousands of photos to find them and then too much of a P.I.A. to post them. HOWEVER if you search past posts there should be some threads with photos.

I don't talk too much about it but I am really unhappy with the new forum format. I can't send and receive PMs, Even though I have tried innumerable times to delete all messages in the boxes, they stay full and no others can be sent or received--so I just gave up. Frequently in the middle of an answer it cuts me off. And after logging in it frequently says I do not have privileges to answer a post. All in all not very user friendly to me.
 
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gman2310

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I took trim pump apart, is there supposed to be a o-ring on this piece?
 

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Jiggz

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Yup. That is the internal valve for the spool valve and is 90 percent reason for the leak downs, worn out o-ring. If you go back to the FAQ sticky post on T&T you will see a pic of the required o-ring albeit a substitute but works perfectly. The substitute is a carb needle valve seat.
 

gman2310

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My brother owns a small engine repair kit and i was looking through all of em for a oring
 

Frank Acampora

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You CAN substitute a 1/16 by 3/16 O ring and it will work BUT In past posts I have read that the correct O ring is from a Techumpsa lawn mower carb kit.
 

Jiggz

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Here's pics of the substitute o-rings. Either or will do and you only need one. I ordered the Tecumseh kit from Jacks Small Engines for less than $6. And it comes with the carb needle, a spring and a gasket. Of course all you need is the needle seat or o-ring.
 

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Jiggz

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Remember there are two spool valves (one on each end) so you might want to make sure you change both this time around.
 
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