Where to start?

rwerden

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
10
I picked this boat up last season. Its an 19 foot tri hull. The Title says its from 197?.<br /> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwerden/boat.htm <br /><br />The hull is strong, it is just missing everything else. But it was free so I figured I would give it a shot.<br />I have a good Idea of what needs to be done, but no Idea where to start.<br />I know I need to set up the deck and seats as well as controls, but what goes on first when your starting from an empty hull.<br /><br />I have a full work shop and I know how to lay up fiber glass.<br />What would you do first?<br />Rob
 

imported_Paul_H

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
35
Re: Where to start?

First thing would be to clean and inspect the hull for damage to the glass, and any rotten wood. Once you've determined what area's need attention, repair those areas, then sand, prime and paint the hull. After that, just a matter of bolting on the motor, controls, seats, et al.
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
Messages
4,005
Re: Where to start?

Paul is right on the nose, hull first then the rest. After you do the hull and paint, visit some marinas on weekends and check out the boats. You'll get ideas in a hurry on how you want to do it.
 

NathanY

Commander
Joined
Mar 16, 2002
Messages
2,408
Re: Where to start?

If it were me, I would take that top shell off. Alot easier to paint both that way, also will give you a chance to replace the transom wood the correct way.
 

rwerden

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
10
Re: Where to start?

Nathan are you talking about the aft area? I noticed the ply wood behind there was rotted, I had planned on just inserting new wood, but if I should cut that section of fiber glass out to do it right then I will.
 

JasonB

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Messages
1,449
Re: Where to start?

If the transom needs replacement, I would definetly separate the deck. Just pull the rubrail an it likely has screws behind it. Pull them out and get a couple buddies to help lift the entire cap off in one piece. Don't cut it, you'll never stop the cracks when you put it back together. If you don't have one, a copy of "Runabout Renovation" will give you some valuable info.
 

rwerden

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
10
Re: Where to start?

Ok cool, I was wondering if that was removable. I will definitly not cut it. What is the best way to replace the transom? As far as materials to use, Ply, Hardwood, sealer?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,704
Re: Where to start?

Layers of CDX,+ Lots of Epoxy.....
 

22WRF

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
145
Re: Where to start?

Before you get too far into it. Carefully examine those exposed stringers that are glass covered to make sure that water has not found a way into them and rotted the wood. Areas near the transom are always suspect. You can tap them and see if they sound solid or ever drill some small holes that you can patch later is they are ok. I use a hammer an an awl (The Surveyors basic tool)<br />If these stringers have wood rot then I would just forget the project and let some one else have a free boat.<br />You can check the transom the same way.
 

rwerden

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
10
Re: Where to start?

I looked and poked at the stringers and they are solid.<br /><br />I was examining the "cap" and although it does have screws holding it to the hull, someone or the factory glassed the cap to the hull from the inside. <br /><br />The Transome appears to be trapped in side. I was wondering if I could go about the replacement from the out side. Basically build a new transome and attach it to the exsisting one from the out side, kinda like a big band aid.<br /><br />I had started chipping away at the transome from the inside and after a 1/4 of rotted wood, the wood was getting to strong to chip away any more. It may be possible the damage does not go through the entire thickness. <br /><br />My question is if the transome is strong enough to support the motor and I take action to prevent further rot of the old transome will that be good or not good enough
 

Captain12pk

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2003
Messages
16
Re: Where to start?

It may not be a good idea to "add on" to an existing transom.<br /> As far as what I can see in the hull. The glass stringer system looks to be fairly intact. If you are not worried about speed. What you can do is clean the surface really well, then sand down the stringer with a rotory sander, to rough up the surface for a new coat of glass.<br /> Then I would cover the whole thing in 1/2 oz. mat and 16 oz.woven glass again. The woven glass adds strength, the matt provides a bond for the woven.<br /> But, before that process it looks like the stringer is nothing more than merely a paralell system. Only four stringer spines rinning up the hull from transom to bow. You can add some gunwales cross ways to the stringer to make a more rigid hull.<br /> It is not hard to make. Find your dimensions. Nail a few 2x4's together and wax them good to allow you to pop the bulk head out off the mould. Cut to fit between the existing stringer and glass them in laterally and even all the way across the hull. In at least three rows, evenly spaced.<br /> Get some PVC pipe about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. Cut it in half to form a dome and then cut it into pieces to form tunnels for water drain down the center of the hull. Make sure they are at least one inch longer than the bulkhead. Glass the PVC down to the center chime in the boat in the areas where you plan to add a bulk head. Then, after it has cured, notch out the bulk head you made to fit down into the slot over the PVC pipe. Make sure to not to lap over the opening of the pipe. Glass in the lateral bulkheads with the mat and woven glass, solid. If you want the extra piece of mind you can drill some holes in the new bulk heads big enough to spray in asome expansion foam. That will give extra strength but with the glassed in bulkheads it could be enough. If yo wonder what all this does, it is to prevent alot of twisting of the hull which causes stress cracks to the desk and hull. I think alot of new boats come with this concept, ours does. Your boat has more of a deck rail than an actual deck. Not much strength there. This would add the extra support in the hull. Then you can add a floor adn use the new bulkheads to screw down the floor. To do that add some strips of balsa wood to the top of the bulkhead in the mould before it is cured. It will bond without any extra glass needed. Press it into the wet resin that is on the glass.
 
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