Where does electric for lights cb radio etc. connect from?

[shinomen]

I have a 1988 McKee craft with an evinrude 1990 115hp v4 motor. The lights and other electrical components (horn, sump pump, etc) have stopped working and I assume it's because they are not getting power.
The wiring on this boat is old and ragged so I'm just planning to replace it all anyway with the following components
1. New Fuse Block

Amazon.com

2. New rocker switch panel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079DMDHLF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I don't know how to do is get power to the fuse block. I'm confused if it's just wired directly from the 12v battery, or if it runs through the remote controls wiring somehow.
I have just replaced the remote controls on this boat with the following

I also purchased this wiring harness to connect to the "new style" controls since I have an old motor

And I got this adapter harness for the other end to connect to the motor

I mention all this because I think the power to electronics was lost when replacing the remote controls and removing the old wiring system that was connected to the old controls.
This brings me to my main question.
1. Does the power to electronics come from the wiring harness or new remote controls system? Or do I just run power from the 12v battery to the fuse block and then run from the fuse block to my different systems?

If more information is needed, let me know. Thanks!

 

[dingbat]

Run wire from panel directly to the ACC terminal on the battery switch.

Run wire directly to battery if you don’t have a switch.
Keep in mind that doing this means the circuit is live until you turn the battery switch off.

If you connect directly to the battery, it’s always hot. Need to make sure everything is turned off each time or risk a dead battery.

Line should be fused at the battery. Lots of components on the market to get the job done.

Used a Blue-Sea-Systems-surface and terminal fuse block on mine

 

[jlh3rd]

you can also consider adding a battery master switch to control/feed those items. I cleaned up my pontoon boat wiring which had nav/anchor/lights/stereo/depth finder/horn all hot wired and separate from the key switch. I didn't like that so I just have to remember one switch to shut off all items.....except the horn, I left that hot.....

 

[shinomen]

I'm not sure what happened to my original post will all the links. Maybe I'm not supposed to post particular links on this website? So, sorry to anyone that can't see all the items I purchased.....I'm sure it's a little confusing.

Regardless, @dingbat , it took me a little bit to understand what you were getting at but ultimately I'm doing what you suggested. In my mind, I thought that power would be supplied when I turned the switch of the remote controls for the motor, much like what happens when you turn the car ignition switch. That's how it worked for the old controls anyway.

However, I'm assuming there is not an "accessory" (acc) switch on these new controls, unlike my old controls (I think), and that's why I lost power to things when I did the conversion.

What I did was run 2x 4-Gauge wires from the battery terminals to a fuse box under my controls housing. Then I wired up the 6x switch control panel I purchased which also has USB charing as well as a voltage meter. It was then that I realized what @dingbat meant by installing a battery disconnect switch so that the battery doesn't get drained. So now I'm installing a battery disconnect switch to kill power on the positive wire (red) to all the electronics whenever I'm done using the boat.

This is also essentially the same thing that @jlh3rd was suggesting.
Thanks to both of you!

 

[dingbat]

I'm not sure what happened to my original post will all the links. Maybe I'm not supposed to post particular links on this website? So, sorry to anyone that can't see all the items I purchased.....I'm sure it's a little confusing.

Regardless, @dingbat , it took me a little bit to understand what you were getting at but ultimately I'm doing what you suggested. In my mind, I thought that power would be supplied when I turned the switch of the remote controls for the motor, much like what happens when you turn the car ignition switch. That's how it worked for the old controls anyway.

However, I'm assuming there is not an "accessory" (acc) switch on these new controls, unlike my old controls (I think), and that's why I lost power to things when I did the conversion.

What I did was run 2x 4-Gauge wires from the battery terminals to a fuse box under my controls housing. Then I wired up the 6x switch control panel I purchased which also has USB charing as well as a voltage meter. It was then that I realized what @dingbat meant by installing a battery disconnect switch so that the battery doesn't get drained. So now I'm installing a battery disconnect switch to kill power on the positive wire (red) to all the electronics whenever I'm done using the boat.

What you have will work but ideally you want a master switch that completely disconnects the battery from any source of draw on the boat.
Eliminates the possibility of leaving the key on and running down the battery that way

This switch get wired in between the battery and the motor. The accessory terminal is on the back of the switch.

Quick and easy end of day turn of all power on the boat.

Main Battery Switch

Ignition protected. Use as main disconnect switch. Red plastic housing with large black plastic knob. For use with systems under 50V - 250A continuous / 360A intermittent.Made in the USA.

www.iboats.com