What tools needed to check over an old project bass boat before buying?

Scott Danforth

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It looks like the carbon contact can be had for $10 lol, but I’m not sure that’s the only issue. I made a makeshift contact out of a screw and cleaned up the rotor somewhat but still no spark. Do you think this is my contraption or another issue? Also on the body of the distributor one of the 3 wires are ripped off nearly at the hole where it comes out. Is there a way I can dismantle the distributor and splice in a new wire there? Also, is there any way a wire on the key switch could cause the engine not to have spark but to crank? I only ask because there is a loose ground wire to something lol.
start looking at CDI ignition systems for parts. there is a merc inline group on facetube with a bunch of people that buy/sell/swap
 

Matt129

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you know that that motor has close to 150psi on the cylinders new. so its been overheated or run lean for cylinder #3 to be down to 100 psi
Ok that’s scary lol. Sometimes I’ve had motors gain compression after running for a while just because they had been sitting but that’s concerning. The other cylinders had closer to 120psi. Will it run ok with that one cylinder running at 100psi or should I give up and cut my losses now lol?
 

Scott Danforth

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Ok that’s scary lol. Sometimes I’ve had motors gain compression after running for a while just because they had been sitting but that’s concerning. The other cylinders had closer to 120psi. Will it run ok with that one cylinder running at 100psi or should I give up and cut my losses now lol?
I am sure it will run. It wont pull full power
 

JimS123

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In the olden days some of my buddies all ran towers of powers. But then again they often spent time tinkering while I was out boating. They sure were the fastest out there though.

Like they used to say: "If you want to get there fast buy a Merc. If you want to get home, buy a JohnnyRude."

OTOH, I have 3 times more Evinrudes and Johnsons in my collection than I have Mercuries. But now all I run daily are 4 Merc 4-strokes. My, how times have changed.

Looking over both of your threads, I would have to say run fast. But then again that's only my opinion. You are looking at maybe a $2500 boat, but it could cost you double that to restore it. if you already bought it, best of luck.
 

Matt129

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In the olden days some of my buddies all ran towers of powers. But then again they often spent time tinkering while I was out boating. They sure were the fastest out there though.

Like they used to say: "If you want to get there fast buy a Merc. If you want to get home, buy a JohnnyRude."

OTOH, I have 3 times more Evinrudes and Johnsons in my collection than I have Mercuries. But now all I run daily are 4 Merc 4-strokes. My, how times have changed.

Looking over both of your threads, I would have to say run fast. But then again that's only my opinion. You are looking at maybe a $2500 boat, but it could cost you double that to restore it. if you already bought it, best of luck.
I’ve already bought it so too late to run lol, but got a decent deal on it and the trailer pulled 400 miles without issue so at least its really good lol. The tilt and trim are still trying to work, sounds like it’s out of fluid. I have some Coastal type F automatic transmission fluid lying around, can I use this as a substitute for the trim oil? It says on the bottle it can even be used in power steer somehow lol.
 

Scott Danforth

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Do not mix type F with standard ATF
Buy straight ATF, not dexron, not type F
 

Matt129

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Do not mix type F with standard ATF
Buy straight ATF, not dexron,
What is straight ATF?
I always thought dexron 3 was ok.
Well the trim worked for a minute and then popped a line… 😖 At least I know it might work in the end but it looks like one of the pistons on the trim is leaking pretty badly. First I’m going to try and tighten it then might have to dig into a reseal…
 

Scott Danforth

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What is straight ATF?
I always thought dexron 3 was ok.
there is ATF which was adopted by Chrysler
there is Type F for Fords
there is Dexron for GM vehicles

if you mix ATF with type F or Dexron, you get a sludge that precipitates out.

you can mix UTF with ATF. you can also mix in AW64 or AW46 hydraulic oil
 

Scott Danforth

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I’ve already bought it so too late to run lol, but got a decent deal on it and the trailer pulled 400 miles without issue so at least its really good lol. The tilt and trim are still trying to work, sounds like it’s out of fluid. I have some Coastal type F automatic transmission fluid lying around, can I use this as a substitute for the trim oil? It says on the bottle it can even be used in power steer somehow lol.
replace the lines
 

Matt129

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Hey, so I replaced that part in the distributor but I’m still getting no spark. The wiring for the key switch is a horrific mess but it still cranks the motor over when I turn the key. Is there any connections in that key switch that could be causing my issues?
 

dwco5051

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Hey, so I replaced that part in the distributor but I’m still getting no spark. The wiring for the key switch is a horrific mess but it still cranks the motor over when I turn the key. Is there any connections in that key switch that could be causing my issues?
Yes, along with at least a dozen other things. As simple as the kill switch if it has one not having the lanyard hooked up to a lot of expensive things. I would suggest you get the factory manual for that motor before you start throwing parts at it. Those older Mercs are know for wiring being brittle over time. Without the wiring diagram you may never isolate the problem. You may find your problem by downloading the CDI troubleshooting guide and reading the Mercury section page 83.
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Matt129

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Yes, along with at least a dozen other things. As simple as the kill switch if it has one not having the lanyard hooked up to a lot of expensive things. I would suggest you get the factory manual for that motor before you start throwing parts at it. Those older Mercs are know for wiring being brittle over time. Without the wiring diagram you may never isolate the problem. You may find your problem by downloading the CDI troubleshooting guide and reading the Mercury section page 83.
.
Should I be hearing any noises from the CDI switch box? Humming? Clicking? It is silent and I know power is getting there (I shocked myself 🤣) so does that mean the box is bad?
 

dwco5051

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Should I be hearing any noises from the CDI switch box? Humming? Clicking? It is silent and I know power is getting there (I shocked myself 🤣) so does that mean the box is bad?
No, you will not hear anything from the switchbox. Without being there with a wiring diagram in hand and test meters I am afraid I can't diagnose the problem. Did you read the info on the CDI guide? It should give you the step by step instructions.
 

Matt129

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No, you will not hear anything from the switchbox. Without being there with a wiring diagram in hand and test meters I am afraid I can't diagnose the problem. Did you read the info on the CDI guide? It should give you the step by step instructions.
Yes I read it, I’ll follow all of the steps tomorrow. I’ve also messaged the seller as he said that it ran before that part broke, maybe I missed something and they know what it is lol.
 
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Matt129

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No, you will not hear anything from the switchbox. Without being there with a wiring diagram in hand and test meters I am afraid I can't diagnose the problem. Did you read the info on the CDI guide? It should give you the step by step instructions.
Also just for reference, what is the stop wire at the switch box? The color wire mentioned in the guide is just the ground, and the other colors mentioned aren’t there.
 

Matt129

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No, you will not hear anything from the switchbox. Without being there with a wiring diagram in hand and test meters I am afraid I can't diagnose the problem. Did you read the info on the CDI guide? It should give you the step by step instructions.
It appears I’m not getting anything from the coil. Can I wire the battery directly to the coil just to see if I get spark then or would this cause damage?
 

dwco5051

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Not a good thing to do. Any jumping around on various terminals could cause damage somewhere in the system. Do the step by step tests to find the bad component. This does require a decent multimeter and a DVA adapter to read peak DC voltages. The only simple test is to remove the black with yellow tracer wire from the power pack. If you get spark then the problem is in the key switch, the kill switch if you have one, or that wire from the switch box is somehow shorted to ground. You don't want to ruin the stator, rectifier, switch box or some other part. There are probably some good youtube videos that will help identify the procedures. Parts are expensive enough and you only want to find the bad one, not ruin good ones.
 

Matt129

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Not a good thing to do. Any jumping around on various terminals could cause damage somewhere in the system. Do the step by step tests to find the bad component. This does require a decent multimeter and a DVA adapter to read peak DC voltages. The only simple test is to remove the black with yellow tracer wire from the power pack. If you get spark then the problem is in the key switch, the kill switch if you have one, or that wire from the switch box is somehow shorted to ground. You don't want to ruin the stator, rectifier, switch box or some other part. There are probably some good youtube videos that will help identify the procedures. Parts are expensive enough and you only want to find the bad one, not ruin good ones.
Ok, good to know, I won’t jump it. I can’t find a black with yellow wire on my engine though, could it be a different color? I can post pictures of the engine if that would be helpful.
 
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