So guys I am about to re-wind my stator, which uses 20 gauge magnet wire. The plastic insulation has gotten very hot and melted in places. What can I use to re-insulate the core against the wire before re-winding?
Anyone? I have heard to thin down JB weld with acetone and paint it on. The only issue that I have here is I want the insulation resistance to be what it needs to. What happens if the insulation layer is to thin or thick, will this alter the voltage or amperage output? If you guys cant help Im going onto my electronics forum. Thanks!
I made a recommendation in one of your other posts about the stator. I hope you measured the length of the wire you took off and noted the direction of the wire wound onto the core.
Please keep your posts together in one thread. It gets confusing and you won't get answers you're looking for.
I made a recommendation in one of your other posts about the stator. I hope you measured the length of the wire you took off and noted the direction of the wire wound onto the core.
Please keep your posts together in one thread. It gets confusing and you won't get answers you're looking for.
Oh yeah I took pictures, counted the winds, noted direction, all that jazz. The guy who does alternator work said he wouldnt re-use the winding insulation (obviously) and that he didnt have anything in stock that would fit my armature, as he does automotive and not marine applications. So I decided to take it on myself. I am just trying to figure out how precise my my insulation thickness has to be between the windings and the armature. The plastic is relatively thin.
That isn't bare wire. It has an insulating coating on it. You shouldn't need any more insulation. Three things - Same number of wraps on each core, Same direction on the wraps (from your pic in the earlier post it appeared that adjacent cores were wrapped in the opposite direction) and finally the same length.
One other thing. The new wire and old wire are the same gauge, right?
That isn't bare wire. It has an insulating coating on it. You shouldn't need any more insulation. Three things - Same number of wraps on each core, Same direction on the wraps (from your pic in the earlier post it appeared that adjacent cores were wrapped in the opposite direction) and finally the same length.
One other thing. The new wire and old wire are the same gauge, right?
Yes sir. Both 20 gauge. I was just curious because the old stator has an insulation jacket of plastic, and most of it is burnt all the way through. Are you saying that I should just wrap the bare metal with the magnet wire?
Well thats cool of you, but see the armature that I have is in good useable shape, just the plastic insulation that wraps the armature has fried. I am planning on rebuilding it. GA has suggested me to just wrap the armature with the insulated wire (I think) but the manufacturer has used a coated wire like the fresh wire that I have, and still had some form of insulation between the armature and the wire. I also have heard that I should paint it with a heavy varnish coat. Just waiting to hear back from GA to figure out the best method.
Hey Ed, nice to hear from ya!! Lower unit is still doing great. I just got a tinytach so Im going to be choosing props soon, since I switched from a 2:1 to a 2.3:1 and still have the same prop. Thanks for the site, I think I am going to do that. What a nice way to save $100-$200 dollars!
I was slightly confused about the insulation. Your armature/core insulators are melted. One wrap of good electrical tape will do it. You want a cushion between the wire and core. If you wrap tightly vibration won't be a problem. If it doesn't work out, call merc850.
I was slightly confused about the insulation. Your armature/core insulators are melted. One wrap of good electrical tape will do it. You want a cushion between the wire and core. If you wrap tightly vibration won't be a problem. If it doesn't work out, call merc850.
Sutor,
3 M makes a high temp glass wolven tape with a good adhesive on it for this kind of thing. Plastic electrical tape will Fail in this application. If you just jump from pond to pond I guess it is OK but I wouldn't risk it and I love to save money. If you are on big water it could cost you $100 just to get towed in, the saftey of my friends and family is more important!!
Sutor,
3 M makes a high temp glass wolven tape with a good adhesive on it for this kind of thing. Plastic electrical tape will Fail in this application. If you just jump from pond to pond I guess it is OK but I wouldn't risk it and I love to save money. If you are on big water it could cost you $100 just to get towed in, the saftey of my friends and family is more important!!
Agreed. And yes the tape that you suggest is called Scotch 27. I have some on order. From what I have learned, the nylon insulation over the poles is more for mechanical protection more than electrical. The sharp corners of the iron plus vibration = shorted windings.
