Re: What to do with the stringers? 84 Campion Alert 180
I got this boat a couple years ago, the PO had replaced the stringers and floor but not the transom. He glassed in the stringers but when attaching them to the haul he spaced out some ply wood and layed them ontop of that, leaving a 3/4" gap between the strigners and the haul. Then angled them into the center of the haul towards the bow.
I am in the process of replacing the stringers, floor and transom and am trying to get it as close to factory as I can. The boat was pretty butcherd when I got it. I need to mesure up so I can install a fuel tank and storage under the floor and the location of the stringers will (obviousley) determin the location and size of both.
Heres a few pics of the haul as it sits now. the wood thats in there now is just for location/test fitting.
Not sure if I should angle them in, keep them stright or end them there?
Also, I will be setting up a jig so they are cut to match the coutour of the haul.
Thanks.
Welcome Ray to the Best Boat Restoration Forum in the World! Loaded with all types of helpful people that have VERY, VERY Useful information.
You are well on your way to a full resto and you got a good boat to restore.
I am fairly new here myself, however I hung out reading other restoration projects before posting mine, but I work Aviation Repairs and the composite repairs are not that dissimilar. Also years ago, when I was younger I built houses and was a Red Iron Connector, also have work for years in Industrial settings as an Electrician/ Electronics Tech. repairing circuit boards at the component level before branching out to Aeronautical Mechanical Engineering and Chemical Processing, so you see there are all types of individuals here that can help where you need it, including those who restore/repair boats for a living.
So, with all of that said; The main reason the stringers are there is a combination of structural to hold the hull shape as well as structural to support the floor and provide a place for flotation foam and storage lockers/ fuel tank holds. The structure helps to transfer torque and stress trough-out the structure as well.
What I would do is buy an inexpensive bevel gauge or protractor and use it against the floor and the transom (after your transom is in), lock it in place, and make a sample cut on an end of your stringer replacement. I would cut it at least a foot or two to insure the bottom of the sample is against the hull and check it against the transom. Also note, some stringers are not flat against the hull in a 90? angle, but angled, one left and one right.
Insure all of your cuts are tight (and the proper angle) to help restore the original strength they were intended for.
For your ski locker and fuel tank hold, simple head off your stringers shaping the header to fit the "V" in the hull. You can make the "box" wider or narrower as you need for the locker or hold. On the opposite end you can return to the original layout of the boat and reduce it to one stringer as it moves to the front or bow of the boat.
Look at previous marking in the boat if you feel that the stringers might not be in their original location. Sometimes there are tell-tail signs left from the previous/ original work.
It's like making an opening in a floor for a set of stairs or a chimney flue. When you cut, you must replace with something as structurally sound as what you cut out. See the sketch below.
All the stringers pieces can be connected using screws and glassed over with the stringers. The stringers are "glued down" using either PB (peanut butter/ a thickened resin mix) or construction mastic. PB is just as strong and does not have to "Gas Out" like the mastic does to set the cure of the adhesive.