What size outboard motor?

[Thaiboxer04]

Hello everyone...new here and was wondering if I could ask for your opinions? I just purchased a late 89 Glasstream Hydrabass boat. I believe it is a 15.5' . It has been sitting quite some time and needs cleaned up, rewired etc. I am looking forward to doing the cosmetics and seeing what it can be restored to cheaply. The downside is...it has no outboard.

I am picking the boat up tomorrow but I'm pretty sure it said it was rated to 90hp. I have been looking at used motors in the local classifieds and dont have much to spend. I currently have a little 7.5hp that i thought about using it just to get it on the water and test for leaks etc but not sure if a 7.5 can even push it! LOL. My main question is... is it a BIG mistake to save money and go with a 40-50hp or do I need to be closer to 90hp to get it to even plane off correctly?

I am not overly worried about speed since I know I'm on a tight budget...but getting to 25mph at least would be nice. I also keep seeing Force and chrysler 40-55hp motors for good prices but everything I'm reading about them scares me. Thanks in advance for any help you all can give!

 

[bonz_d]

Welcome Thaiboxer04,
Would suggest a 3 cylinder OMC 70hp as they have been around a long time and are pretty good engines with a good parts supply. On a tight budget next suggestion would be a 2 cylinder 50-60hp OMC for the same reasons. Lastly if you can find a good solid running Force or Chrysler for the right money as a temp don't rule it out. It's just that parts can become hard to find so keep that in mind.

 

[Frank Acampora]

A 50 should yield you about 25 MPH. It will be OK for tubing but marginal for skiing or wakeboarding. If the boat IS rated for 90 (my Glastron 15 foot is) Then try to get as close to maximum horsepower as you can.There are a lot of Chrysler and Force 40-50 HP engines around, they are cheap, and they can be reliable. They are dirt simple and easy to work on. The Chrysler 55 was the lightest 55 ever made at 156 pounds. I had one on my Galstron for years until a growing boy water skiing made it necessary to go to a 90. The 1967 55 still runs and is in my garage waiting a different hull.

 

[Sea Rider]

Going for full HP tech plate capacity will be good if boating with max stated number of passengers max or load to carry, if not a 50-60 HP will suffice, but with less number of passengers and load to carry. Once installed, you could go for a prop maximization to get all the ponies out of that engine.

Happy Boating

 

[JSGOLD]

Use that 7.5 until you get a bigger motor....it will move your boat. I have a 16' Starcraft and used a 5.5 on it most of the time as we use 10hp lakes a lot. I had a 55 for when we went to bigger ones. Just be sure it is the right height for your transom. At least you can see if there are any leaks etc. You wont go fast but you will still enjoy yourself.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Thanks a million everyone!! Would it be ok if I keep reporting back to this same thread with some questions on the used motor options i'm seeing for sale? Also once the boat gets here i'll measure the transom and hopefully one of you can let me know if I need a short or long shaft. Thanks again!!

I did find a package deal with a 50hp force and another 50hp Force for parts for $300?

 

[bonz_d]

Sure enough, I'll keep watching. What's your general location?

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Thanks! I'm near Pittsburgh PA. Well the boat got delivered this evening and it looks to be a bigger project than I thought. The clear coat is chipping very bad everywhere ( inside and on top mostly) so hopefully I can use some spray can clear coat to make it look a little better cheaply. The sides I will try to polish maybe and see if it helps at all with the white oxidation look. I measured the transom and it looks to be 18" but it's 22" to the actual bottom of the boat. Not sure which measurement to go by but do I need a long or short shaft motor? I tried to upload pics but it's saying "invalid file data".

 

[Frank Acampora]

That would be a long shaft transom. If it is local and you can pick it up $300 for a WORKING engine and parts one is a good deal. However, borrow a compression tester and check before buying.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Ok thanks. I will definitely check compression! Is it 10% variance i should look for?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Look for compression over or close to 120 PSI. 10% variance from cylinder to cylinder is acceptable.

 

[bonz_d]

Ok thanks. I will definitely check compression! Is it 10% variance i should look for?

Correct. Greater than 10% usually isn't a good sign. I would expect to see at least 110lbs on that engine and of course higher is better. Good luck in the hunt.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Thank you much gentlemen! I'm hoping some other options in the $300 range pop up in the next week or so. I honestly would love to find a nice johnson 40-60hp. I've always had great luck with them in the past.

 

[bonz_d]

Thank you much gentlemen! I'm hoping some other options in the $300 range pop up in the next week or so. I honestly would love to find a nice johnson 40-60hp. I've always had great luck with them in the past.

Have to agree. Just sold a very nice running 1975 50hp. Just removed another very nice 1983 60hp from my boat and replaced it with a 1987 50hp that has power tilt n trim.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Wow. That 60hp sounds perfect! What did you sell it for just out of curiosity?

 

[bonz_d]

Haven't even put it up for sale yet. I only got $250.00 for the 75 50hp even though it was a great running engine. I paid $600.00 for that 60hp 3 years ago. I may keep it as those 60hp 2 cylinder engines are kind of hard to find. The 87 50hp I paid $350.00 but it needed a lower unit, which I was able to pick up one for $90.00. .
Here in Wis. these 50-55hp engines are pretty common and can be found for a reasonable price. Next I would say the late 70's to mid 80's 70hp are common.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

I'd buy it if i lived closer! I found a 2003 evinrude 75hp withbpower tilt and trim that had an insurance claim because it went underwater. He wants $400 for it. I'm tempted because it's so new but have no idea how indepth the damage can be!

 

[bonz_d]

To the right person that might be a bargain. But with todays electronics I think it would be more than I would be willing to take on.

 

[Thaiboxer04]

Good point bonz_d. He told me he was quoted $2,000 to repair it! No thanks! I am now looking at a late 80's Force 85hp with no controls for $200... has good compression and spark is all i know. Other one is an early 80's (i think) Mercury 65hp with controls thats been sitting 20 years for $350. Not sure which is better.

 

[bonz_d]

The bargain comes from being able to do the repairs yourself, eliminating the labor costs. Still parts costs could get pricey.

The 2 you just mentioned are a toss up. The Force will most likely still need carb work and a water pump kit, not to pricey but then you will need to locate controls. The Merc you would have to look over very closely and spend some time with it, looking over all the wiring and ignition, compression check and then it will still need the carbs and water pump work.

Buying an engine that is not running and has been sitting for an extended time is always a crapshoot. There is just no way of knowing what is in front of you. Though I have done it many times and have been lucky for the most part it's still a gamble. I prefer to stick with the OMC engines because I am familiar with them and their inherent problems.

I think you are on the right track though. Determine a suitable hp. range and then find a good engine that fits your budget. Make and year really have little bearing on this decision. The goal being to find the best possible engine for the least amount of money. Which also may not be the cheapest one of a bunch.