What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

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fishrdan

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

WOW, this thread is becoming a train wreck :rolleyes:

Honestly, most of the nay-sayers seem to be more threatened by someone stepping on their "turf" (ie this forum) than getting the best advice to the OP and anyone else who reads this thread.

I can tell you this much, if you guys came over to a car forum and tried to share some of your experience...I wouldn't treat you like this. I says alot about the "experts" here. Some of you have some great knowledge on marine engines, but a few of these responses make me question the kind of people you are...

The stern responses have come from BAD recommendations on how to build a "MARINE" engine, and the lack of the offending poster to admit that these recommendations were incorrect, instead defending his recommendations to the death.... Bad cam and manifold recommendations, not understanding what reversion is and what type of corrosion is bad in a marine engine.

Look at the post counts of the people who have been making the stern replies, they know what they are talking about. And if someone is out of line, they will correct it.
 

270win

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

WOW, this thread is becoming a train wreck :rolleyes:



The stern responses have come from BAD recommendations on how to build a "MARINE" engine, and the lack of the offending poster to admit that these recommendations were incorrect, instead defending his recommendations to the death.... Bad cam and manifold recommendations, not understanding what reversion is and what type of corrosion is bad in a marine engine.

Look at the post counts of the people who have been making the stern replies, they know what they are talking about. And if someone is out of line, they will correct it.

Again, just like ive asked all the supposed experts here. Tell me about the cam recommendations specifically what will cause problems and what you would do to the recommended grind to make it better for this application?

It won't happen though...because you don't know why you say the cam recommended is wrong for this application. You're just repeating what others have said. Nobody that has been asked to give an explanation has been able to do so...

And post counts don't mean squat...if Jon Kaase joined the board today you would probably question his knowledge on engines too...and that's who taught me about engine building.

The thread is becoming a train wreck because none of the self proclaimed gurus have anything to add to the topic, they would apparently base credibility on post counts and ask silly questions...
 

mkast

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Again, just like ive asked all the supposed experts here. Tell me about the cam recommendations specifically what will cause problems and what you would do to the recommended grind to make it better for this application?

It won't happen though...because you don't know why you say the cam recommended is wrong for this application. You're just repeating what others have said. Nobody that has been asked to give an explanation has been able to do so...

I'm just guessing, but maybe you have been added to the "Ignore List".
 

270win

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

I'm just guessing, but maybe you have been added to the "Ignore List".

I guess they've ignored the OP too...hr keeps asking the same questions....the silence is deafening...
 

BigBoatinOkie

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

WOW, this thread is becoming a train wreck :rolleyes:



The stern responses have come from BAD recommendations on how to build a "MARINE" engine, and the lack of the offending poster to admit that these recommendations were incorrect, instead defending his recommendations to the death....

For goodness sake people, if you don't tell us what the hell he's said that's bad, how the hell am I supposed to avoid doing it wrong. Folks have talked about reversion, but have not explained it and why 270Win's suggestions are affected by it. You've talked about his bad cam suggestions, what was wrong with them, and why. You've talked about bad manifold advice, what specifically was he wrong about. If you don't say anything to back up your objections, then suggest the proper way to do it, then your just not being nice, nor are you helping in the least. I'm trying to learn averything I can here, from everyone I can. Maybe he is mistaken about some things, but all I've heard anyone say so far is that he's doesn't know what he's talking about and doesn't understand reversion. If all you're going to do is call out mistakes and not make corrections to the "bad recommendations", then as far as I'm concerned, you can shut your pie hole. I'm not talking specifically to fishrdan here, but everyone here. I just wanted quote his post as a good example of accusing 270Win of giving bad advice and giving no reason why he's wrong or or giving us the proper recommendations. Can we please just put this to rest and get back to helping each other. Let's make this the last negative post please. If you have a positive comment or can offer help, please do so. If you're just gonna complain, go somewhere else. I really don't want to make anyone mad, but this has become rediculous. :)
 

fishrdan

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Don and Bruce both said what reversion is and what causes it.

I posted exactly why the Performer RPM manifold was a bad recommendation, for several reasons.
 

270win

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Don and Bruce both said what reversion is and what causes it.

I posted exactly why the Performer RPM manifold was a bad recommendation, for several reasons.

I agree, fishrdan...you did say specifically why you thought a perf. rpm was a less than optimal recommendation. I think that point was well made with side by side numbers you posted. You also mentioned some concerns about corrosion with fresh water in those Edelbrock intakes...didn't argue that either, just shared my experiences with running fresh water in engines with those manifolds...even mentioned that these were not marine applications and my wondering about why the marine application might cause excessive corrosion. I also at one point misunderstood that you were not speaking about a concern for external, but internal corrosion...I think someone else also was confused and recommending some other paint...can't recall who that was.

About reversion, Here is the extent of Don's comments-
on post 131 he said, "Aka valve overlap, wet exhaust, water in cylinders, and all that good stuff?" ....that's it.

In response to Don I said, in post 137-
"Which of the intakes we're discussing are going to cause any more adverse exhaust pulses coming back into the exhaust port? Or are you talking about the cam advice? All are marine grinds from Comp, Lunati or MerCruiser."


No response.

Bruce said-
in post 148 "If you don't know what "reversion" is in a marine engine, you shouldn't be giving advice about what types of cams to use.
You use a cam like 270win says to use and you are going to be sucking water big time."


In post 150 I asked the question of Bruce, "What is it about that grind that will cause the motor we were discussing at the time to "suck water big time"??? It's basically a MerCruiser 5.7 grind..."

Bruce responded in post 153 with, "Since you don't know about the hazards of reversion and how certain cam profiles can cause this to occur.....If you have too much overlap and the exhaust valve is still slightly open as you start the intake stroke, you can suck water in. This will basically happen at idle."

While that is an explanation of what reversion is, it hardly answers the question I asked in post 150, so I ask Bruce again.

Post 155 "We've already covered this...I know how this works and I think that's been shown...I was asked about reversions, I answered...You made a statement about a cam I recommended that, quite frankly, shows that you have no idea what you're talking about. So, please explain to me what specific aspect of the cam profiles I mentioned would cause water to be drawn into the exhaust port? What would you change about that grind to make it perfect for the application?"

No response...

Again Dan, you stated in your most recent post, "Don and Bruce both said what reversion is and what causes it.".

But the question still remains. What is it about that specific cam that will cause the engine we were discussing to draw water into the exhaust port? In other words, are you saying the advertised duration is too long? That the duration at .050 is too long? Was it the ICL? The LSA? Lift? And since you understand this, what would you recommend be changed to remedy the problem with my recommendation. That is a rhetorical question, Dan, because you don't know, Bruce doesn't know either and if Don does know (which I assume he does but after looking over the grind realizes there is really no problem with it) he has apparently dropped out of the discussion.

There is nothing wrong with that grind, it's basically a MerCruiser grind...if it's a bad cam that's going to wipe out people's motors you better contact MerCruiser quick!!! They might not know what they're doing!

Here's what I think has really happened...this is not about my advice, it's about the fact that my post count isn't what others here, who claim to be experts, (and do have valuable knowledge and experience) is. I'm the new guy here, obviously I've invaded some kind of cyber territory and so I get questioned. That's fair, I've said over and over again that the majority of my experience is in street and race engines...but to fail to acknowledge that some of you may be wrong or don't really understand how these cam numbers work (ironically the same thing you accuse me of) is very telling.

This thread has taught me one thing, I'm buying a motor from Rapido so I'm not going to have to worry about this, but if I WERE going to build my own. I would NOT seek the advice of the "experts" on this forum. All that has been proven is that nobody here knows everything there is to know about marine engines...but some of you refuse to admit that.

BigBoatinOkie-
I'm going to unsubscribe from the thread and cancel my user name on iboats...I'm done with this. I hope that will help get this thread back into a productive and positive direction.

Best of luck to you and keep up the great work on that boat project!

270
 

mylesm260

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Hmm mayble I can help explain this situation from both sides....


First off let's define reversion, someone step in and correct me if I'm wrong here.

Reversion is when water enters the combustion chamber through the exhaust valve. This can happen in two ways. #1. From the water level being higher than the riser, causing the exhaust manifolds to fill with water, example: beaching you're boat and having you're stern go down. #2.Through the voodoo science* of acoustic and harmonic dynamics, water is drawn into the manifold by a temporary vacuum.

I say voodoo science because unless someone here has a PHD in harmonics and acoustics, you don't understand what exactly is going on in the exhaust system.



Okay 270WIN I want you to visualize something. Think of a mercruiser riser. Think about the how slightly the downward angle is as the water and exhaust merge. Think about how small of a role gravity has in pulling the water down and keeping it from going up-stream into the manifold. The merging point is almost level, in fact at some points, during decel for example, it's leaning in the direction that WOULD cause water to enter the exhaust.

Now 270WIN I want to talk about camshaft specs. Various manufactures have various metrics for rating camshafts.

For example, if a camshaft is rated at 270 degrees of intake duration, at what point (lift) do they consider the valve open?

Some companies rate their cams duration from fully closed to fully closed. Others rate them from a given lift to a given lift.

So if a cam says it has no overlap. It could very well mean that it has no overlap over .150 lift. but may have 50 degrees of over-lap BELOW this lift.


You follow?




Here's another thought for you. you're signature shows that you have a lot of old american V8 experience. Answer me this: What is the science behind the H-pipe?


Why is it if you take a 302 mustang, or a 350 camero with dual exhaust that you will ALWAYS have more power output with an H pipe than without?

American v8 exhaust tuners always reference the "voodoo" science behind the h pipe.

It actually has to do with the firing order of a north american v8. In order to get their engines to run smoother, they have essentially the "wrong" firing order. This leads to all kinds of weird acoustic and harmonic events taking place in the exhaust system. These events also vary greatly with RPMS.


Think about it this way. Does a 302 mustang have a hot cam from the factory? 1988 5.0LX. 190 HP out of a 302? Limited valve-train from the factory? I think we can all agree that as far as cam's go. the 88 stangs wasn't that hot from the factory.


If you had two exhaust systems. One 3" dual independent, and one 2" with an H-pipe. The H-pipe system would make MORE power.


But how can this be? Why does linking the left bank to the right bank make MORE power?

Would it not make more sense to have the BIGGER pipe and hence less back pressure and more flow?


The reason is, the H pipe uses vacuum pulses from one side of the engine to pull exhaust out the other side.

And these vacuum pulses have to travel through 3-4 FEET of exhaust piping and they STILL have an effect.

The water and exhaust merge on a mercruiser engine not even 12 inches down stream from the exhaust valve itself.





If you want more evidence of the "wrong" firing order, consider this.

Italian V8's (Ferrari, etc) DO use the correct firing order. GO lookup the firing order for a small block chev, then go look up the firing order for a ferrari v8.

Now compare two engines with the same dispalcement. Both v8's and listen to the sound of their exhausts.

I understand there are other factors, but there is NOTHING you could do to a 305 or 350 small block chev to make it SOUND like a 5-6 L ferrari motor. The reason is the firing order (Among other things of course)


8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1



Small block Chev Firing order
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2


RIGHT - LEFT- LEFT - RIGHT -LEFT -RIGHT - RIGHT - LEFT

This firing order is bad for performance and exhaust pulses, but GOOD for balance.



ferrari firing order
1-5-3-7-4-8-2-6

RIGHT - RIGHT - RIGHT - RIGHT - LEFT - LEFT - LEFT - LEFT



As you can imagine, there is a HUGE difference in flow through these systems.

And these differences are all different at different RPMS.


So, once you factor ALL those things in.

The fact that the stock mercruiser exhaust is VERY susceptible to reversion.
The fact that cam manufacturers don't show the TRUE overlap in their specs.
And the fact that the chev small block's exhaust system is extremely turbulent by design.


There is VERY VERY little "wiggle room" in cam design over stock. All the GOOD cam manufactures (summit for example) will have SPECIFIC cam grinds for marine. And they will show WHICH cams are at the harry limit of marine ability.


And a cam profile that doesn't suck up water 99% of the time is no good. Because then 1% of the time, you're stranded and you're toasted you're engine.

Boats need a cam profile that won't suck up water: at Idle, at cruise at wot, at 2000 rpms, at 5000 rpms, in rough water, in calm water, on Mondays, in july... when the captain is wearing a blue shirt.... you get my point.




So people are getting mad at you, like I did, for coming onto the forums and giving what essentially amounts to BAD advise.

I have no doubt that you have a LOT of cam experience, but you need to show some humbleness and some respect to some of the members here. We're fortunate enough to have some veteran stern drive mechanics in here of 20+ years of experience. Some of them who in their younger days have PUT cams that are too hot in marine motors and toasted them.




And THAT is only ONE side of the equation.

I'm not sure if you noticed or not, but there is currently a horsepower and gas mileage war going on in the truck market.

Ford, toyota, chev and dodge have been duking it out for some time to see who can get the best mileage and the most power.

Our boat motors ARE truck motors.

There are MILLIONS of dollars of research being thrown into to cam profiles. If there was some magic cam profile that made MORE power WITHOUT sacrificing torque, economy and revision, WE WOULD ALREADY HAVE IT.

IT would be in the GM marine motors (which are the same as their GM truck motors)

Even modern day gen IV GM marine motors run similar cam profiles. They get their power through better flowing heads, better combustions chambers and variable valve timing.




If you want more mojo from you're boat, go with a GEN IV chev small block.

GM marine has been using them for several years now, they're the only REAL way to get more HP, other than a COMPLETE engine overhull, like a 383 for example, and even then, a lot of those setups require dry exhaust.
 
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BigBoatinOkie

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Well thanks for finally defining reversion. That's very interesting.
 

BigBoatinOkie

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

It's unfortunate that this thread took a turn for the worst. Let it be known that I appreciate all the help I've recieved. There was some very good information shared here, and I now have a much greater understanding of the differences in auto and marine engines. Also I hope nobody got mad at me for defending 270Win. At times it seemed like everybody was just coming down on him a little harshly. If I made you mad, I appoligize and I hope you don't shy away from helping me in the future. If this is the end of this thread, thanks to everyone, I learned alot.:D
 

mylesm260

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

I don't think any apology is necessary at all..

like I said, a little respect and humbleness goes a long way in life. In any situation if you start blowing people off, they're not going to be happy.



The fact of the mater is, the science behind revision is very very complex, and hard to explain without computer modeling, etc.... 270WIN was calling us out looking for some easy to understand information as to why different cam grinds are bad in boat motors.... it's not a very simple thing to explain. I myself don't even fully understand it.



To illustrate my point. Go watch this youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpovwbPGEoo

This is a rubens tube. It will help visualize the effects of different frequency's on the pressures inside a tube.

When you watch the video, think of all the different frequencies going on inside an exhaust system..

you've got rpms
you've got firing orders
you've got 1st order waves interacting with 2nd order waves, interacting with 3rd order waves, etc etc etc....
 

BigBoatinOkie

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Very interesting information. I've never heard of reversion until this thread. Is an engine with through hull exhaust as suceptible to these effects as one with through hub ehaust? Or is it the cooling water that gets sucked in?
 

mylesm260

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

They're both susceptible.


Although tru-hull would be better for the water level style of revision, until of course the water got so high that it went back up through the tru-hull... but you would need to beach you're boat with you're bow pretty far up to do that in most cases.

mind you, there's always waves
 

Don S

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Very interesting information. I've never heard of reversion until this thread. Is an engine with through hull exhaust as suceptible to these effects as one with through hub ehaust? Or is it the cooling water that gets sucked in?
Yes, and in some ways worse. The water enters the exhaust right at the end of the riser. The worst time for reversion is at prolonged idle speeds. (Long no wake zones, trolling while fishing, etc.) Mercruiser even recommended to not run at idle for prolonged speeds, if you did have to, ocassionally raise the rpm up to 1500 or so to clear it out. Even in neutral will work, just to keep from water fouling the plugs. They have worked on the problem and the newer MPI engines don't seem to be affected as bad as the earlier ones, but again, they do not publish their complete cam profiles for present engines. Merc and Volvo both consider it privlaged information.
There is just so many things different between marine engines and racing automotive engines that it's just not possible to explain them because of a lack of the info from the marine side.
That is why I said earlier to "Be Careful" of the information. We aren't talking race cars, steet cars, or even trucks. We are talking about BOATS.
Truck cams seem to work fine, not the best for max HP and Torque or whatevery someone want's to call what they do. Before truck cams became acceptable, it was called an RV grind on the cams.
You just can't pick a race cam and expect it to work in a boat under general boating conditions. Maybe if you want to do minimum cruising and 99% blasting around at max rpm while looking at your GPS and trying to impress someone some of the things may work. But in reality, most boaters on this forum want a boat that will do family things.
 

BigBoatinOkie

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

My exhaust is pretty high on the transom, above the swim platform, so I would think it would be pretty hard to get water up there, but not impossible. I had asked earlier about RV cams. So an RV grind is basically a truck cam? I didn't want to put a real hot cam in anyways, I didn't want to do anything that could cause damage, but gain a little torque and hp if it's possible to do so safely. Should I be looking into my risers to see if they are adequately clearing the water, or possibly upgrading them?
 

mylesm260

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

My exhaust is pretty high on the transom, above the swim platform, so I would think it would be pretty hard to get water up there, but not impossible. I had asked earlier about RV cams. So an RV grind is basically a truck cam? I didn't want to put a real hot cam in anyways, I didn't want to do anything that could cause damage, but gain a little torque and hp if it's possible to do so safely. Should I be looking into my risers to see if they are adequately clearing the water, or possibly upgrading them?

What you're referring to are called riser extensions. And they only help for the 1st kind of reversion. They will do absolutely nothing for "I'm running too hot of a cam" reversion.


and I know don doesn't agree with me, but mercruiser uses the GM marine cams. and GM marine DOES advertise their cam specs and they ARE truck cams.

Pretty much since the introduction of the vortec in 96/97 mercruiser has been using the exact same cam profile you would find in a chev/gmc half-ton pickup.


If you look up, I posted a link showing the differences between the truck and marine 4.3's. In GM's own writeup, they show they have the exact same cam specs.
 
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Don S

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

And they only help for the 1st kind of revision.

The word is reversion, not revision.
 

mylesm260

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

Ya I guess that makes a lil' more sense
 

bruceb58

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Re: What makes a marine engine a MARINE engine

My exhaust is pretty high on the transom, above the swim platform, so I would think it would be pretty hard to get water up there, but not impossible
The exhaust is a wet exhaust no matter where it exits the boat. The water is mixing with the exhaust gasses as they exit the riser.

Now there is a difference between thru hull and thru the drive as far as how the dynamics of the exhaust pulses occur but that is a different story.
 
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