What is this bolt and should I be worried?

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
98
I got the screw to turn about 1/2 a turn by notching it and then using a flathead. Unfortunately that was all I could get. Going to pop by my local mechanic this week to see if he thinks he can get it out. BAH.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,577
most likely the motor will need to come out
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,958
I got the screw to turn about 1/2 a turn by notching it and then using a flathead. Unfortunately that was all I could get. Going to pop by my local mechanic this week to see if he thinks he can get it out. BAH.

Ayuh,.... Which way were you turning it,..??

If from above, the easiest turning will be clockwise to run it out the bottom, the normal entry point of the threads,.....
 

ltklein

Cadet
Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
24
I'm going to re-propose that he has a metric bolt broken off in an SAE hole (the 8.8 stamp on the head says so) which is why it broke in the first place. If that's the case it will need to be turned to back it out the way it came in...or as Bondo said.

I'd chase the threads before putting in the new bolt..
 

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
98
Ayuh,.... Which way were you turning it,..??

If from above, the easiest turning will be clockwise to run it out the bottom, the normal entry point of the threads,.....


It had about 2mm of threads through the hole so I was turning counterclockwise just hoping to run it through. I take it that was a mistake?

I think a good mechanic will be able to get it out without pulling engine, its pretty accessible. At least...I hope so.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,958
It had about 2mm of threads through the hole so I was turning counterclockwise just hoping to run it through. I take it that was a mistake?

I think a good mechanic will be able to get it out without pulling engine, its pretty accessible. At least...I hope so.

If from above, the easiest turning will be clockwise to run it out the bottom, the normal entry point of the threads,.....
 

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
98
Have a mobile mechanic coming out to look at it on Friday. Talked to a couple of different guys and I don't have high hopes for it being successful, but thought I'd give it a go prior to pulling the engine.
 

Ed Harris

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
199
I had to pull me 3.0 out. Leave it on the chain. Get under it and drill a hole for ezout. Worked like a champ. But I had to pull the motor to redo the front motor mount box.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,577
you pulled the drive first, correct.

because you need to align the motor prior to installing the drive.

while you have the motor out, paint the section of the front timing cover that is all rusty (doesnt get painted by the factory). this way it wont rust out on you.
 

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
98
So...mobile mechanic couldn't swing it. I don't think he brought the right tools. Probably f'ed it up more than anything. I think his hole is off center. Dropped it with a mechanic on Monday. He's going to do his damndest to get it without pulling it. He's also doing the impeller/bellows/gimbal replacement at a ridiculously cheap price.

As they say....BOHICA.
 

cchamp

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
98
most likely the motor will need to come out


So you were all right. Motor has to come out. Bad time of year for it...


Questions for those who know more than me (which is probably all of you): What should I have done WHILE the engine is out? Anything that will now be easily accessible that should be done while I can?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,292
I would avoid "easy-breaks" if you not familiar with them . I drill a hole and use a allen wrench socket tapped into the drilled hole
 

Alumarine

Captain
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
3,734
While the motor is out might want to check the coupler splines and perhaps the ring gear for missing teeth?
Long shots but while it's out might as well look at them.
Take a look at the exhaust flapper as well to see if's intact. Easier to change with the motor out.
Maybe rear motor mounts?
Also, if your oil pan has rust spots it's a good time to clean it up and paint it.
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,203
I would avoid "easy-breaks" if you not familiar with them . I drill a hole and use a allen wrench socket tapped into the drilled hole

assuming you are referring to easy-outs? Why? They have saved my bacon on numerous occasions and have not had a single failure of either the tool or getting the bolt out while using one.
 
Top